Hi guys,

I need some input/guidance from people who actually went thru the infamous P1320. I have been getting it consistently for the past few hundred miles, and obviously my inspections is less than two months away (Murphy's Law applied).

I tried searching and it seems like this code is a Maxima nightmare and suggestions range from MAF replacement to waxing the car, so please, anyone that actually had gone thru this exact code, let me know what exactly was done.


A little background: car is very much stock, 127K miles, runs strong, 450 miles on a tank, and no previous issues. I have replaced maybe 2 or 3 coils (bought from Dave B) and the only issue I had was 5 years ago I had O2 issues and installed an O2 Sim, which has worked all this years and passed inspections twice.

Recently the car started *coughing* a bit during start-up and maybe even during idle, a very subtle misfire, but I only get P1320 by itself (different from the other times in the past when the car accused a bad coil and I simply replaced it).

From my searches, it seems like I should be replacing all the coils (and plugs at the same time) and I dont actually mind the investment if it will solve the issue. At the same time I read about MAFs, harnesses, Seafoam, and the list goes on... Hence the request from input from experience users who were able to actually fix it.


Thanks a lot in advance!

BB

 

well i just got rid of this last week, the scanning tool i used gave me which cylinder had the bad coil, i replaced that one coil and all six sparks so far it hasnt come back, i would suggest replacing coils one at a time checking which one isnt working properly and the sparks are all a must

 

Change coil packs and camshaft pos sensor as well as crank sensors

 

I'm not looking forward to doing this, it's gonna get expensive. And I just found out my car has two crank position sensors too.

 

Thanks for the input giaa, and I know if I erase the code, it comes back within 5 miles, so if you haven't got it back in a week, it is definitely good news.

Now could you clarify how you knew the cylinder number from the P1320 code? I use the Alex Pepper OBD-II computer software and I can't find out which cylinder (if any) is throwing the code.

In the past I had cyl-specific codes and was able to quickly fix the issue, but this time I am receiving P1320 by itself and no other code. Maybe you had multiple codes?

Thanks again for the feedback!

Tun3r, could you please clarify if you actually had to go over this code or not?

Your recommendation covers very distinct items, and it is hard to believe they all would fail simultaneously, and it could be a waste of money replacing parts for no reason.

Thanks

 

You can simply use an old school timing light to find that missing cylinder....place the inductive pickup around the coilpack wiring harness! Watch for the missing and stumbling light.........

 

If the remaining 3 coils do not have gray dots on them I would replace them first. They may be original. Did you replace the others with OEM coils or aftermarket coils? I've had bad luck with anything but OEM from Nissan.

 

I had the 1320 as well as 0154, 0134, and 0464 all at the same time.

First I replaced all 6 coil packs, that didn't fix it. Then I replaced the cam shaft pos sensor, that didn't fix it. Then I replaced the crank sensor, that fixed ALL the codes. Yet none of the codes gave indication that it was the crank sensor. SMH

 

I only have the 1320 code, so I'll replace the crank sensors first and then go from there.

 

I also only have the P1320, so it is either COILS first or CRANK SENSORS, but I won't do both at the same time.

Have you got a cost on those crank sensors? What are we talking about?

Replaced with OEM from Dave B, but I dont recall the remaining coils.. if they had the dot or not... Good point...

Thanks!

BB

After quickly checking Rockauto, it seems like the crankshaft position sensor runs about $50 each... Not sure how much Dave charges for this part...

 

got rid of the P1320 last week, I just chose 2 coils(1 and 5) and replaced them and the code went away....try your luck and see what happens lol

 

I called around a few places here in my town and the crank sensors vary in price. One is cheaper than the other. The cheaper one ranges between 50 and 70, and the one that is more ranges from 120ish to about 150.

 

And you had only the P1320 code, no secondary codes when you did this? I'll have to look up the firing order to see which cylinders are #1 and #5 and I might give this a shot.

 

you got 450 miles a tank ???

that's crazy~

my maxima just got about 450km/280miles per 60Liter/15.85 gallon

what's wrong with my car?

I got P1320 too

 

YOur probably looking at MAF right there, deals alot with air fuel mix. I get about 400 to 500 a tank on mine 89-88 octane only and ive replace MAF. Trouble shooting my p1320 error as well.

 

change all coils if they are the defective ones from factory (no grey dot). Change Crank POS sensor and you should be gravy.

if the maf was bad he wouldnt be able to rev past 3k or 2k, one of the two and it would run like shiznit.

 

im having the same issue with my 4th gen and dont know where to go from here. ive even had people tell me to clean my air filter to possibly solve it.I mean its a little dirty but not that bad.

 

I had the same problem on mine, p1320. I drove it around with that code for awhile and then I got a secondary code, p305. I went to replace the coil found oil in the spark plug tube. I took the rear VC off, replaced Spark plug seals and gaskets, new coil and plug. Code went away, over 1k miles now, but I am getting another code P1130 (swirl vavle). Does anybody know how to fix this?

 

6 new coil packs did the trick for me. No cheap non- name brand crap. I purchased BWD and they seem to be holding up good. Also you need to bite the bullet and change all 6. Cause if you have 3 new and 3 that are on the verge of crapping out you will continue to have issues since the new will provide different resistance values.