I picked up two Moog Endlink assemblies from Rock Auto.

The oem endlinks have a large nut near the rubber cover over the universal joint. The moog endlinks have a thin nut flat up against the rubber cover. Does the moog need an extra nut to make a spacer so as to keep the rubber seal away from the body mounting hole, or can it be used as is?

 

i got the Mevotech that looks like the Moog but haven't installed it yet. by the look of the picture of the OEM link, i say see if you can remove the nut that is next to the rubber boot and transfer it over to your moog, provided that the threaded stud still have enought length for you to secure it to the control arm. otherwise, I'd say to leave it

 

I just replaced my endlinks Memorial Day with the MOOG's. I also noticed the same thing. I wasn't impressed with the fact there wasn't a washer, so I got my own. Used 4, obviously one for each location. I turned a 45 minute job into 4 1/2 hours. My passengers side took about 3 hours of that time. I need a better impact gun...

 

I think the inner nut is a permanent part of the end link? Or is it just a removable nut???

I just tried to thread the nut supplied with the moog end link onto its shaft. It only goes so far and is limited by a cap on the threads on the end.
How am I supposed to use this?

 

This other post goes into detail about how not using washers can cause issues with the bolt and links loosening up.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ise-video.html

I'm wondering now if I should get oem linkends instead.

 

That nut is there so you can tighten the actual fastener. If it wasn't there the endlink ball would just spin forever. You don't need extra washer's, otherwise they would be included.

 

Knight,

Thank you. Your car is in nice shape!

Actually there are quite a few posts about people having their moog link ends loosen up. I'm not so sure about not including washers. The proper design would be to have a flanged nut on the inside like OEM, or at least having the inner nut the same surface area as the oem flanged nut.
The outer nut that comes with the moog's can only be tightened down so far because of the way they are designed.

I'm considering getting Deeza link ends from Rock Auto instead, I think they use an inner flanged nut.

 

Mine have not come loose. But you can put a lock washer on the fastener side if you want to. I thought the original question asked if something should be placed on the backside. The answer is no. The side with the arrow is as it should be. But feel free to put some green loctite or a lockwasher on the opposite side

I have found the moog anti-spin nut to be more than adequate. The OEM nut is too soft. I have had to zipcut at least 5 sets of OEM endlinks off of cars I have worked on for friends. The moog uses a larger 15mm wrench, and the OEM is a 14mm wrench.

 

the moog link is great quality and fit, mucb better than the oem one and it should be no more than 30 min each side to install

 

30 minutes to install, but could be a long time to take off originals.

I have a carbide cut-off wheel on a dremel like tool, but I'm not sure where I would be slicing......

I still feel like I need to put a washer against the thin inner nut for the bottom mount point, the oem flange nut still is a better mechanical mount. Of course they didn't duplicate it because it would cost more money for a flange nut...

 

i was including taking the originals off within that 30 min time frame...even cutting off the old one(which I had to do) only took 5 min

 

Sounds excellent. But where exactly did you slice when you cut ?

 

right through the "nut" you are pointing at in your first picture

 

just did my mevotech end links and sway bar bushing today. it took me around 3 hours due to having to cut them off. no washer applied to the backside and was able to get it pretty tight...

 

Skorp1on,

sounds great. I did mine today with the Moog's. Used washers. Took about 4 hours. I could not use the dremel except on one lower side, because the tool did not fit in a tight space. so it was slow going unscrewing the outer nuts. In one case I thought first and used a wire wheel to clean the exposed threads sticking out of the outer nut, which made it come off a lot easier.

I have to get a flex shaft for the dremel. Will go to home depot and get one tomorrow.

 

What size washers did you go with??? Got some endlinks sitting at home waiting to go on.

 

yeah, taking them off were a PITA...i used an angle grinder and sawzall to grind and cut the old ones off. since there were not enough space, i detached the tie rod, took out the strut assy from the knuckle, tied off the abs and brake lines to prevent accidentally cutting through it. too much work just to do the endlinks. sounds like you got lucky with cleaning the threads with wire wheel - i have impact wrench trying to take it off but no luck.

 

I finally installed my moog endlinks, no washer was needed. Seem like good quality

I also shortned mine a 1/4" so hopefully they last longer since Im sitting low.

 

Pattyt,

I just took the endlink to the hardware store and tried on washers. I don't know what size the bolt is. I would have preferred to get hardened washers, but could not. However, I took the washer that is on the upper mount facing outward that was already there as part of the original installation, and moved it to the inner flange on the bottom mount. The hole in the bottom mount is an oblong slot and it is critical that you have some washer or something that is larger than the width of the hole to fasten it properly.

 

Oh you will need them, mine seemed to tighten fine and were for a week or two. Then, the clunk was back

 

Yeah, there is not a lot of surface area to grip onto with friction in the lower mount unless you use washers. I still think Moog made a bad design. I wish I ordered the Deeza endlinks from Rock Auto instead.

 

I'm not understanding why washers would be needed. I replaced my endlinks with Moog a while ago without any need for washers, or anyhting else for that matter. So far so good.

 

dang it...i regret to inform you guys that my installed Mevotech endlinks are having a clunking noise 2 days later. i will take a look it this weekend and evalulate if there's in fact a need to add washers...

 

Yeah, I think you want to get fender washers, with I believe (you have to check) a 10mm center hole or its english equivalent. Found some at an Ace Hardware store. They seem to be pretty thick and sturdy.