Brl24

Im pretty happy with my spacer install, although Im pretty sure I used a bit to much rtv. I was just wondering how badly that will affect performance. Also just wanted to hear some positive feed back from those who have them installed, where and how much did you notice the gains etc ... It feels like mostly low end to me as I did the bop before and def noticed the high end gains

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

I remember there was a time when I was thinking 4th gear was my new 3rd gear on the highway (in my 6MT). Meaning, there was so much more pull in 4th gear mid-range that downshifting from 6th to 3rd for highway pick-up was over-kill.

Here's some on-topic reading:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...p-spacers.html

Ryan95gle

Ive got a set of the spacers on my 4 gen and love them! I see most of the gains in the low end of my power band, which is where our engines need it the most. Ive noticed the spacers perform the best on cool nights and early in the morning. These is a great from product for NWP-E!!!!!

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

Same as Rochester. 4th gear seems to pull harder around 60mph now. I’d say the most noticeable difference is in the mid range. Not a huge difference, but definitely there, and butt dyno feels it. My car also tends to break loose on dry pavement now when I floor it in 1st gear as soon as the needle reaches +/- 4000rpm (without dumping the clutch). I don’t remember being able to do this before.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Good point, Gizmo... the spacer gains are all about mid-range power.

UDP and Torque Link for off-the-line.
Spacers for mid-range.
BOP for upper-end.

Put them all together = Winning.


[edit]

I'm quite sure a lightweight flywheel will massively affect off-the-line HP as well, but never crossed that bridge myself. If only I had started modding my car earlier than I did. Oh well.

Brl24

Thanks Rochester, I read that thread you started in 09. I'm gonna drive it til the weekend and see how I feel. I know I saw some of the rtv squeezed into the ports when I put the lim on, so if I'm not feeling what I think I should by then I'm gonna re-do them. Man it is hard to not put too much rtv on those things.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

You really need to put just a little bit on the spacers, then spread it out in a thin layer with your fingers.

7speed

Because of that injen But for real when I played around with my intakes, punching at 4k rpm with just filter vs mid pipe or long pipe like injen. It seems I had more low end tq with just filter to MAF to TB.


I can't wait to put my spacers on, I want that extra midrange punch. Hopefully I'm not over anxious about the gains. But being auto I know on highway while I have a nice pull I don't always get the pull I want but that is auto tranny fault. But I'm hoping spacers will solve some of that.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

^^ After driving for a year with a short ram intake, and switching to an Injen, I feel much less heat soak with the Injen. Even though it is behind the radiator, the air is cooler down low in the engine bay (heat rises). I didn't install it behind the fan blades, I pushed it to the side so it's away from the hot air when the fan turns on. High end power may suffer a bit due to the longer pipe, but heat soak was really killing performance and I hated it.

OHH NOES

iTrader: (3)

<3 NWP spacers, they are amazing. I have to check my data logs to get an exact number, but they lowered my IAT at the plenum by a decent amount. My plenum used to get unbearably hot, couldn't even put a finger on it for a second, after installing the spacers a few years ago I can leave my hand on the plenum for hours, even with the added heat from the turbo, and still not get burnt. NWP's products are the best and we are lucky to have a manufacturer for our cars to make these types of products.

txnurse25

The spacers work great and they didn't look hard to install. (not that I installed them hehe, go nell). I also did the block off plate at the same time, but no sure I care for it. (the plate)

It is great around 4000 rpm, but I normally change gears before 4k unless im passing or merging. I like my fuel economy. The wife is afraid she going to blow up the engine so she almost never takes it over 4k and we both notice the low end power missing

Would like to try that torque link though....

Stason

Does anyone who installed spacers have a strut-bar installed as well? Will the strut-bar clear the UIM/elbow/TB after spacers are installed?

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

That depends on the strut bar and your engine mounts. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say most people don't have issues.

Here's a better way of looking at it... if your FSTB doesn't clear the UIM because of the spacers, then get rid of the FSTB. Simple. It's not even remotely worth it as an excuse not to get phenolic spacers.

This is a picture of clearance with the Racingline FSTB, NWP Spacers and ES torque mount bushings on a 6MT:

Stason

Nicely put Thanks for the pic as well! Soon NWP, soon...

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

I took a video of the "whistle" sound my engine makes after installing the spacers.

http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=IMG_0308.mp4

The sound only happens under 1/3 throttle. For those who installed the spacers, do you get the same whistling sound?

It doesn't seem that loud in the video (crappy iPhone sound/video quality), but in reality you can hear it more.

Stason

OMG THAT IS SICK! Seriously, that video just made me want those spacers more! Sick whistle!!! It def DOES sound like a spool Cool!

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

I got a fidanza flywheel and it takes awhile to get used to but...YES....it definitely helps big time getting off the line....especially when paired with the sprint booster!!

Also.....will a UDP affect performance of an aftermarket stereo system with AMPS and subs?

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

It certainly can. The whole point of "underdrive" is that the smaller diameter crank pulley is not turning your accessories at factory specification, which means your alternator isn't charging as well as it should. And the whole point of *that* is to reduce drain on your engine, thereby allowing for "wasted" energy to move through the drive train.

From what I've read, reducing parasitic drain with an UDP might reclaim an additional 1 WHP over a lightweight crank pulley that is OEM diameter. Big friggin' deal, right?

The real gains (such as they are) come by way of the pulley being lightweight. That's the important component of this equation, not the under-driving. And that is why I went with an OEM diameter, lightweight crank pulley. Mine is from Unorthodox Racing, and I don't even know if they sell OEM diameter crank pulleys anymore. Last I looked, they were prohibitively expensive for what it is... like $250 kind of expensive.

However, since you already have a lightweight flywheel, I seriously doubt you would even notice if you installed a lightweight crank pulley. But that's just a reasonable guess.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

If I did go with the UDP I would go with OEM size. I would think the more things that you can lighten the less the engine would have to work accelerating....I think a lightweight UDP would give some performance increase. It would be the same adding 18lb. lightweight racing rims (which I plan to do)....I'll let you know when I install the UDP how it feels. Just installed the BOP yesterday as well....felt a tiny tiny bit of loss in low end had to give a little more gas to get it going...but after 4k it is noticably different...not like a turbo or nothing...but noticable! SPACERS next......but I dont want to be fooling around in the apartment parking lot for 3 hours with that mess....might just pay a mechanic to do it...cant wait till I buy a house so I can do my own stuff in my OWN garage....

aznaliaz

iTrader: (1)

My friend has the nwp we paid the shop to do it and they screwed it up with too much rtv. It leaked into the fuel injectors causing a cel and horible ride. Use a small amount nd try to wipe it away as ur installing piece by piece of the spacers.

U might want to get their block plate too it changes the torque band nd gives more mid. His cars a beast almost as fast as my 350

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

I gained about 25 horse and 25 torque in the midrange. 2k-5k according to the dump after tuning with the spacers. Amy dump is in the thread Rochester posted

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

Bty to the OP. When you saw the rtv drip over the edge you could have just scooped it up with your fingers. Better than leaving a lump of it retsricting air flow

spock

iTrader: (5)

I've been so on the fence with the spacers. I need to replace my RH valve cover b4 the weather changes, ( have the new one sitting in the garage), but I'm concerned about removing the upper plenum in the future. For plugs, coil packs, etc. I know how well silicone sticks.
Any reassurance on how easy removing the plenum is in the future once silicone is cured?

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

It's phenolic. RTV doesn't bond to phenolic like you're thinking. It is relatively easy to remove. Never had a problem with it's abundant use in aviation. Plus, you should only apply enough for a seal. A minuscule amount. Proceed with the spacers. You won't have problems down the road.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Get off the fence, Spock. Install those spacers this summer, because before you know it Winter will be creeping in and you won't feel nearly as motivated.

Since you'll be doing your own install, your only costs are the phenolic kit from NWP, a little tube of RTV and the afternoon of down-time. With DIY consideration, this is the best bang-for-buck, non-intrusive power modification available to our cars. Hands down.

spock

iTrader: (5)

You've almost got me convinced, Rochester. (and nelledge).
By the way, did you do the throttle body coolant by-pass? I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere. Please understand my not searching through miles of threads.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Yes. But you don't have to if you don't want. It doesn't have anything directly to do with the spacers.

I can't imagine the temp difference is that great because of a little heated rad fluid circulating around the TB. My understanding of the design (circulating hot coolant fluid around the TB) is that sub-zero temps could cause the TB to catch. IDK what on... frost, I suppose. But you and I live in the identical climate, Spock, and I've been fine for the last few years.

NWP gives you a bypass connector to make the mod easy. But it's just as easy to simply loop one of the hoses across both leads, rather than connecting the hoses to one another. I went that route, because it's simpler (looking).

Here's a picture:

7speed

Do it... I notice a torque increase. But I can't say it was overwhelming to me. But I'll be hitting track friday so I'll see if times improve. Cuz my butt dyno is pretty sorry.
I did have to remove my ebay ftsb cause it was sitting right on throttle body connection.

spock

iTrader: (5)

Yea, I think I'd have to remove my Racingline fstb as well. Only about 3/8" clearance now. I suppose I'd get more gains from spacers than a bar, by far.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

That's the right priority, IMO.

You can easily sell that Racingline FSTB in the FS Forum for a decent pick-up.

spock

iTrader: (5)

Here's to hoping we get a nice fall so that I can get all of this **** done. The delay on the y-pipes is finally over and maybe I can start planning some time with mods.
There's always the other obligations in my life, however, which will kill my weekends until September.
We do have labour day then, so maybe an extra day or 2 off work will get things done.

7speed

[QUOTE=spock;8169464 The delay on the y-pipes is finally over.[/QUOTE]

cheers to that


Next week hopefully

spock

iTrader: (5)

O.K, I just ordered the spacers. I have a bit of work to do in the, (hopefully), near future.
I would expect to feel some gains here, so I'm a little stoked.
After all is complete however, I'll still have a little " Tail Pipe Envy".

tcb_02_max

iTrader: (5)

You could also use a Motordyne Copper Throttle Body Heater. Sometimes they show up on my350Z.com.

Brudface

Just a question and I am not bashing NWP at all, because I am going to be purchasing both the spacers and the BOP... But has anyone tried the Skunk2 spacers made from the composite, or are they the same thing, because to be honest with you I think that I would trust NWP more because of their fame on this forum. The spacers I am talkting about are 199.99 and I can post a link if need be.

Cant_Get_Ryte

iTrader: (52)

A high stall convertor and shift kit, full 3 inch, 3 inch maf, headers, ssim, and full tune.....=winning.

Cant_Get_Ryte

iTrader: (52)

I had mild rubbing on the passenger side with the Otto racing bar. The cattman bar on there has 0 issue. 2k3 auto

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

When I drive, I like to use all 4 limbs. It's much more satisfying.

But you make do with what you have, I get that.

Cant_Get_Ryte

iTrader: (52)

Smartass lol. I got jacked up overseas, ended up with a plate n my foot, so had to let my 5 speed go had a white max b4 this one bro, and Lawd knows is love to have the extra I'm losing on my auto, but....

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Well all the more apt then, when I said you make do with what you have.