SO...been changing my brakes now for 4 hours in my 2K2 SE (103,000 miles), hoping it would only have taken 1 hour, and now Im missing steak and beer at a buddies house with a busted ride...

My issue is the caliper itself, I have read several threads where everyone has discussed seized calipers, and all there is to do is replace them. However, here is my issue: I used a reset tool and got the piston to turn back, however the tool broke and all I could find at Advance was the ratchet tool. So I bought it and got the piston almost all of the way back in but unfortunately it lacks about 1/4" from being back in enough to reinstall the new pads and rotor. And here's the thing, I can still get it to spin with relative ease, its just not retracting any farther.

So my question is, is my caliper done for or is there some kind of trick I can do to get it to release farther? My initial thought is to maybe open the bleed valve and release some pressure. Also, Im wondering if the piston requires both turning force and pressure against the piston that tool provides in order to make it fully retract. It's just so dang close to going in I'd hate to replace it if there is something I can do to get it to work.

As for tonight, Im taking my dad's ride and going to drown my sorrows with bud lite. Appreciate any help you all can give me.

 

I've replaced my rears three times in the past two years. When I change pads and they are seized, I couldn't retract the piston back in. I bled, but that barely helped but you can try. It is easiest to replace. I have a life-time warranty so I just exchange them. You have to put mostly rotational force, but pressing while turning helps if the piston is out all the way, I have found out. good luck

 

When I worked on my brakes, I contemplated messing with the rear calipers, but decided it wasn't worth the time and hassle. Just buy replacements.
After spending the past two years in Germany (i.e. the land of plentiful quality beer), this doesn't strike me as a particularly good time. But then again, I am probably spoiled.

 

Just replaced my rear pads and rotors yesterday. My understanding of this is that in order for the piston to retract you need to both rotate AND push it. Rotating it won't do it alone which is why the caliper spreading tool you can rent from Orielly/Autozone/other parts stores does both. You need a good amount of pressure as well.

 

I had the same problem doing rear pads and rotors the other day not being able to turn the piston back in..chances are if your caliper is that hard to turn back in its junk and will only give you problems in the future even if you get the piston back in...buy a new one from autozone for 80 bucks and be done with it.

 

Although new ones may be the best option... I have used a trick to get a few more years out of the ones on mine

The last 2 times I've changed the rear pads the pistons were very hard to turn in.

The trick is to remove the rotor, then bolt the caliper back onto the hub, then use the piston turning tool on the caliper with it bolted to the car.

This allows you to use a lot more leverage and get those pistons pressed back in.

Then just unbolt the caliper, put the rotor back on and bolt the caliper back on.

It sounds like more work but honestly it saves a ton of time trying to fight with the piston tool and getting those pressed back in. It only takes a minute or two of turning the piston tool instead of fighting with it for 15.

 

agreed...if your caliper is hard enough to turn back to break your tool *unless its from china* your caliper is crap...you need a new caliper, you just need help bleeding the system

 

buy a new one from autozone for 80 bucks and be done with it.

 

+1 if you need to drive your car or for whatever reason need your caliper on now, use this method. Also crack open the bleeding screw while doing this, makes compressing the piston MUCH easier. Also make sure you aren't overlooking something like your hand brake being up.

Edit: F me, just realized this is 10 days old.