clear coat repair
#1
clear coat repair
sup org.
I have about a 3inch length of clear coat that is flaking away on my back driver side pillar.
Its about half an inch "tall" and about 3-4 inches long, running down the length of the pillar.
i've done some searching and all the responses tell me that its going to have to be professionally done and most likely will result in the entire portion of the car if not the entire car needing to be redone for it to be right.
Has anyone repaired clear coat in small patches before? i'm not looking for perfection. If the color doesnt match 100% or its noticable thats fine with me. I just dont want this to start rusting out. I have every intention of keeping this car for many more years and teaching my 19month old how to drive in this car
i'm thinking i can just clean the area really well and tape off the portions around this. I was going to sand down the edge of the "flakey" parts so that its smooth again. Then basically just keep applying clear coat spray until i can get it as even with the existing as possible.
I can snap a pic here in a little bit if that would help with the assessments from any eyes....
again .. i don't care if its not perfect. The way i see it is that a little miss coloration on the back pillar is FAR better than RUST
what say you?
I have about a 3inch length of clear coat that is flaking away on my back driver side pillar.
Its about half an inch "tall" and about 3-4 inches long, running down the length of the pillar.
i've done some searching and all the responses tell me that its going to have to be professionally done and most likely will result in the entire portion of the car if not the entire car needing to be redone for it to be right.
Has anyone repaired clear coat in small patches before? i'm not looking for perfection. If the color doesnt match 100% or its noticable thats fine with me. I just dont want this to start rusting out. I have every intention of keeping this car for many more years and teaching my 19month old how to drive in this car
i'm thinking i can just clean the area really well and tape off the portions around this. I was going to sand down the edge of the "flakey" parts so that its smooth again. Then basically just keep applying clear coat spray until i can get it as even with the existing as possible.
I can snap a pic here in a little bit if that would help with the assessments from any eyes....
again .. i don't care if its not perfect. The way i see it is that a little miss coloration on the back pillar is FAR better than RUST
what say you?
#2
read my post.
you can follow similar instructions, just use more clear (with the touch up pen- unscrew the car and its a brush inside)
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ch-repair.html
you can follow similar instructions, just use more clear (with the touch up pen- unscrew the car and its a brush inside)
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ch-repair.html
#6
called the dealership ... the pen that they sale is two different paints in one pen i guess?
the base coat and then the white/clear coat in one?
15 bucks at the dealership .. thats not bad ...
the base coat and then the white/clear coat in one?
15 bucks at the dealership .. thats not bad ...
#7
to be honest with you... your gonna be there all day trying to brush or pen that job.
get a can of spray clear.
ill give you instructions on how i would do it (to avoid priming & etc)
clean the area
tape off the area. (inch extra around the damage)
sand it with 2000grit.
clean.
spray clear. (let dry)
sand with 2000 grit.
clean.
spray with clear. (let dry)
GENTLY sand with 2000 grit
clean.
sand with 3000 grit.
clean & let dry.
come back and hit with rubbing compound & a rotary tool.
hit with a polish and with a rotary tool.
wax it.
get a can of spray clear.
ill give you instructions on how i would do it (to avoid priming & etc)
clean the area
tape off the area. (inch extra around the damage)
sand it with 2000grit.
clean.
spray clear. (let dry)
sand with 2000 grit.
clean.
spray with clear. (let dry)
GENTLY sand with 2000 grit
clean.
sand with 3000 grit.
clean & let dry.
come back and hit with rubbing compound & a rotary tool.
hit with a polish and with a rotary tool.
wax it.
Last edited by ImStricken; 08-19-2011 at 02:15 PM.
#9
to be honest with you... your gonna be there all day trying to brush or pen that job.
get a can of spray clear.
ill give you instructions on how i would do it (to avoid priming & etc)
clean the area
tape off the area. (inch extra around the damage)
sand it with 2000grit.
clean.
spray clear. (let dry)
sand with 2000 grit.
clean.
spray with clear. (let dry)
GENTLY sand with 2000 grit
clean.
sand with 3000 grit.
clean & let dry.
come back and hit with rubbing compound & a rotary tool.
hit with a polish and with a rotary tool.
wax it.
get a can of spray clear.
ill give you instructions on how i would do it (to avoid priming & etc)
clean the area
tape off the area. (inch extra around the damage)
sand it with 2000grit.
clean.
spray clear. (let dry)
sand with 2000 grit.
clean.
spray with clear. (let dry)
GENTLY sand with 2000 grit
clean.
sand with 3000 grit.
clean & let dry.
come back and hit with rubbing compound & a rotary tool.
hit with a polish and with a rotary tool.
wax it.
sweet. i'll follow those steps.
question though.
the "rough" paint that has missing clearcoat is just that .. rough. When i sand it smooth is it going to remove the paint and have bare metal?
i guess i'm just curious if i should use the touch up paint as well.
i'm cool with using a small can of spray on clear (assuming i can get the spray pattern correct), but the paint feels rough and i'm worried that sanding it down will cause more paint fade/damage to the area.
also i dont have a rotary tool or anything. can hand waxing and buffing work or would i need to buy a small brush for my dremel or hand drill?
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