norcallump

iTrader: (1)

So I was on m y way home from work. came to a red light. old guy next to me in his brand new 750i informed my car is on fire. I said "No, its a diesel"... yeah my max has a smoking problem. Im done with this car. engine one = knocking at 102k miles
engine two (used from 2003, 90k miles) = timing chain tensioner snapped, frooze engine at 106k miles
engine three = smokes worse than a F250 stroke
I had mechaninc take a look, plugs fouled (of course), cats were plugged (test pipe, almost gutted front cat) but compression was 170-165 all around.
She burns constantly! no knocking or ticking. no lack of power, just smokes. Any ideas? I was thinking maybe cracked spark plug tube, as no matter what oil weight I put in, still smokes.

T_Behr904

ajm8127

iTrader: (8)

If you are burning oil and compression if fine, I would say valve seals.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

And to have those kind of problems that early on (aside from clogged cats), I'd say all of those engines never saw any maintenance, ever.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I'm thinking Nissan miscalculated on the VENDOR supplying their VQ35 piston rings and maybe the wrong batch was installed in many cars which I seriously doubt!!!!! But what you need to determine is where the oil consumption is occuring! Perform a leakdown test and I'm sure it's not piston rings but Valve Stem Seals that's the culprit! They should be hard as ceramic/crystall, from all the heat cycles and higher temps these modern engines run at.....Good luck! While performing you leakdown test listening in the crankcase for a hiss will be the rings while there is no way to really test a leaking valve stem seal other than pulling your intake(UIM & LIM) and visually inspecting Valve stems heavy oil contamination....Good luck again!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

One of the worst posts I've seen in a while, sorry dude, but really? Like,.... really?

norcallump

iTrader: (1)

when mechanic did the compression test he noted there was a sound, and was thinking a valve is not closing all the way? ehhh. on the first engine i bought the cars used with 64k miles. did all routine performance, but it always had a oil leak, comning from the back side of the timing cover. when i had money to have it fixed, thats when leak was getting worse and motor developed a knock. lesson learned there. Engine 2 was great until one day when my wife was coming onto the highway and lost power when she was merging. she coasted off to the shoulder. code reader said came position sensor, and car would run, but it was knocking and stuttering bad. got it towed to the shop and mechaninc found that issue. since engine was under waranty, got the third and.... here I am. I just keep getting toher peoples problems. everything has been replaced nearly (clutch to all o2 sensors), but it just burns oil. I will see about a leakdown and let ya know

T_Behr904

It was a mere suggestion. It's not like I'm gonna put a gun to his head and make him use it.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Why didn't you go with a 04 -08 Maxima engine the 02 -03 just rolling the dice to get another oil burner...

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

find the leaking source of the oil consumption.......pull your LIM and UIM! Or at least do a leakdown test!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

^ THIS

norcallump

iTrader: (1)

LIM and UIM... ok whats that lol?

ajm8127

iTrader: (8)

Lower Intake Manifold and Upper Intake Manifold.

norcallump

iTrader: (1)

Finally getting around to doing some tests. Istopped driving the car, as the oil burning was constant and I was thinking that some CHP might have a field day and tag me as a gross polluter. Will be doing a leakdown, and replacing the all plugs. Before I stopped driving the car, I steadily got codes for misfire on cyl 2, 4, 6, and 1. I only get about 150 miles per tank. I have a new front pre-cat and main cat waiting, but I am not putting those on until after I do the leakdown. Hopefully it wont be to bad. Does anyone know exactly how hard it is to remove the head just in case I am looking at a valve job?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

1st: Don't put new spark plugs or a catalytic converter on until you FIX THE PROBLEM, otherwise, you're wasting your money and time, because those components are going to wear out FAST, and you'll just have to replace them again very soon.
The reason your Cat is bad is because the car is obviously overfuelling and/or pumping oil into the exhaust. At this point your 02 sensors are probably toast too. Your issues are only going to get worse, and worse. FIX THE PROBLEM THAT IS CAUSING ALL THESE OTHER ISSUES!!!!!!

2nd: Pulling the head pretty much means you're pulling the engine out. Because it's overhead cam the work involved to do it in the car is nuts. Way faster to just pull it out and work on it out of the car. Just make sure you do all the tests properly before pulling the engine.

norcallump

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. i already had the cats sitting as the main cat was plugged and just put in a test pipe and front pre-cat I knew was toast as well. i know the car is over-fueling... but what causes it? Only check codes I get are for Mis-Fire. At idle car doesnt sound to bad. I have a exhaust leak between pre-cat and the y-pipe (when engine was replaced mech. weled in test pipe, and possible tweaked it). When a ocmpression test was done, all cyl. were very close but they noted they can hear "air", or a "hiss" saying poissble stuck valve. So this weekend I am finally able to get the leakdown down. What range should we look for?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Have you read your FSM for the proper procedures?

norcallump

iTrader: (1)

FSM? Friend who is doing builds race cars (ran a '30 model a with 500 CI B1 headed chrysler with buzzard cather on alky, and a tube chassied turbo's alky civic).

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Cool. So instead of following proper OEM procedures you're going to 'wing it' with a guy experienced in Distributors and Carburators.

This sounds like it's going places.

norcallump

iTrader: (1)

where do I find proper procedures and etc.? and just FYI, buzzard catcher is fuel injection, and civic runs flying toilet bowl. Just asking for help. Sorry.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Nicoclub.com/fsm

Perouse through the Factory Service Manual for proper testing and adjusting procedures, as well as all the specifications.

Once you guys find out what's wrong via proper reference point, then this guys experience is really going to help you. You're lucky to have a handy guy like that, but just don't expect that he can return it to stock form and reliability without doing proper procedures, that's all. You need to follow the proper tests and baselines, that will tell youwhats wrong. Then getthis guy to help you fix it