Inconsistent Starting Issues with a 5.5 gen
#1
Inconsistent Starting Issues with a 5.5 gen
Has anybody experienced any inconsistent starting issues with the 5.5 gen? I am having an issue starting mine sometimes. At times it fires right up and at times it cranks and does not turn over. When it does run, there are no codes and the car is fine. However when it does not start, with the key in the igniton and turned, my obd2 reader can't connect to the ecu. And this started to happen when the weather became colder.
Another thing to note is that when the car is started and runs, I can turn it off and it will start right up. But if it sits for a couple of hours, it does not start right away. The ring around the ignition lock is solid green as well.
Any ideas?
Another thing to note is that when the car is started and runs, I can turn it off and it will start right up. But if it sits for a couple of hours, it does not start right away. The ring around the ignition lock is solid green as well.
Any ideas?
#2
cranking and turning over are the same thing, can you elaborate?
I do find it strange that you can't connect to the ECU....but I wouldn't focus on that too much, stick to the basics in your diagnosis, then get into the more elaborate as you go along.
I too have a strange intermittent start issue.
I do find it strange that you can't connect to the ECU....but I wouldn't focus on that too much, stick to the basics in your diagnosis, then get into the more elaborate as you go along.
I too have a strange intermittent start issue.
#3
Start solenoid check that first. Also could have a bad spot on the starter armature inside the starter and it only lands on that spot every so often. Very small chance but possible also check battery terminal conections. I know it seems weird that a corroded terminal could do that but im a mechanic and we have.had some weird cases with that. Another thing CPS (crank position sensor) will cause intermitient no starta and eventually not start all period
#4
I am assuming you mean that the starter cranks but the engine does not start. Lots of possibilities. fishtale6spd gave you a couple of points. It could also be the ECTS. Try these and see what happens.
#5
I recently changed a worn out starter (On a friend's wife's Maxima) that had worn bushings and rotated very slowly or not at all. Pull your starter and rotate the drive gear More than likely the bushings and commutator are worn....Take the armature out and spray it down with brake cleaner and clean the housing as well,..... the brush dust may be hampering the armature rotational ability as well!!
#6
Mystarting issue just came to a head, $300 after tax for a reman starter, frikking ridiculous......I thought mine was just a bad connection but turns out the starter was on it's way out, gave it a few whacks and it starts..going to change it now, still pi$$ed at the price, I've purchased cars for less than that!!
#9
#11
This is what I was thinking, can be a main cause of no starts.
Mystarting issue just came to a head, $300 after tax for a reman starter, frikking ridiculous......I thought mine was just a bad connection but turns out the starter was on it's way out, gave it a few whacks and it starts..going to change it now, still pi$$ed at the price, I've purchased cars for less than that!!
Mystarting issue just came to a head, $300 after tax for a reman starter, frikking ridiculous......I thought mine was just a bad connection but turns out the starter was on it's way out, gave it a few whacks and it starts..going to change it now, still pi$$ed at the price, I've purchased cars for less than that!!
#12
i don't know how anyone would spend $300 on a reman starter. I can get a brand new one for $180 and swap it out in $20 minutes.
The AZ remans are crap, I've had to replace them in as little as 2 weeks because they'd fail.
The AZ remans are crap, I've had to replace them in as little as 2 weeks because they'd fail.
#13
Go buy a $299 car then! How old is your Max? Most 2000 are starting to to be replaced now, Not bad in my opinion for a small 11 yr old component that you probably forgot about since it was working flawlessly, since brand "spankin" new...but of course your might be a new used 5th gen owner...I don't really know... You could take a chance buying a cheaper Autozone component but I'm sure you'll be back doing that samething in less than 2 yrs from now, going that route!
And that is an Autozone starter, Champion Re-Man. (actually PartSource here in Canada).
I couldnt' freaking believe it either, but we get screwed, plain and simple. At least I have a 3 year warranty with the one I bought.
#14
Has anybody experienced any inconsistent starting issues with the 5.5 gen? I am having an issue starting mine sometimes. At times it fires right up and at times it cranks and does not turn over. When it does run, there are no codes and the car is fine. However when it does not start, with the key in the igniton and turned, my obd2 reader can't connect to the ecu. And this started to happen when the weather became colder.
Another thing to note is that when the car is started and runs, I can turn it off and it will start right up. But if it sits for a couple of hours, it does not start right away. The ring around the ignition lock is solid green as well.
Any ideas?
Another thing to note is that when the car is started and runs, I can turn it off and it will start right up. But if it sits for a couple of hours, it does not start right away. The ring around the ignition lock is solid green as well.
Any ideas?
#15
i had this issue this very morning ! ! i put in my description best I can
I haven't had this kind of or any kind of starting issue since it was last cold out in.. February 11'. and a note to add to crazy97 I have a grounding kit and one of the grounds is to the starter.
It was a cold night, probably the coldest we have seen in months , car wasn't started for 16 hours. In early morning I got in car to go to work and dash said it was about 41 degrees F., I go to crank it over and it cranks as normal but nothing starts up and promptly rpm drops back down then I let off ignition. I say to my self wtf. I try again and think to my self "I know what this is" that I had this very random issue when it was cold. So Second time Crank it over and slightly tap accelerator and hold ignition over a little longer than a normal start up expecting it to turn over, still nothing except a really rough chokey kind of attempt to start. Now I think to my self damn it has never been this bad. So I try it again this time holding the ignition over longer and hitting the accelerator stronger and longer than the second try. It finally turned over but was extremely rough puttery like idle and you waited to see if it stalled again. Once it ran for another 90 secs it was better but not perfect/normal. I got on the road ok, but did notice about 4 miles down the road at a stop light the very rough idle came back and rpms dropped to a rough idle as it was right after starting.
One thing to note, less than 35 mins later I had to run out for coffee (office machine broke) and it started up no problem, like nothing happened.
IIRC I was reading up on the throttle body cleanings and it seemed like that issue before they are cleaned have very similar symptoms. Jsutter had a thread about it.
I haven't had this kind of or any kind of starting issue since it was last cold out in.. February 11'. and a note to add to crazy97 I have a grounding kit and one of the grounds is to the starter.
It was a cold night, probably the coldest we have seen in months , car wasn't started for 16 hours. In early morning I got in car to go to work and dash said it was about 41 degrees F., I go to crank it over and it cranks as normal but nothing starts up and promptly rpm drops back down then I let off ignition. I say to my self wtf. I try again and think to my self "I know what this is" that I had this very random issue when it was cold. So Second time Crank it over and slightly tap accelerator and hold ignition over a little longer than a normal start up expecting it to turn over, still nothing except a really rough chokey kind of attempt to start. Now I think to my self damn it has never been this bad. So I try it again this time holding the ignition over longer and hitting the accelerator stronger and longer than the second try. It finally turned over but was extremely rough puttery like idle and you waited to see if it stalled again. Once it ran for another 90 secs it was better but not perfect/normal. I got on the road ok, but did notice about 4 miles down the road at a stop light the very rough idle came back and rpms dropped to a rough idle as it was right after starting.
One thing to note, less than 35 mins later I had to run out for coffee (office machine broke) and it started up no problem, like nothing happened.
IIRC I was reading up on the throttle body cleanings and it seemed like that issue before they are cleaned have very similar symptoms. Jsutter had a thread about it.
#18
A recall is forever, although some dealers will try to tell you it is too late. But that is not true.
What is true is that not all 2002 cars are recalled, just certain serial/VIN numbers. Call the dealer and talk to him. Have your VIN number and the date your car was made handy.
Here is the the info fron the NHTSA.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 03V455000
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
Manufacturer: NISSAN NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Potential Number of Units Affected: 630000
Year: 2002
Make: Nissan
Model: Maxima
Manufactured
from: 2001-07-01
to: 2002-06-30
Recall Date: 2003-11-17
Summary:
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS.
THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR(S), AND IN SOME CASES, THE VARIABLE TIMING CONTROL SENSOR(S). VEHICLES INVOLVED IN A PREVIOUS RECALL CAMPAIGN, 01V357, ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THIS NEW CAMPAIGN. THE REPLACEMENT SENSORS USED IN THAT CAMPAIGN ARE ALSO AFFECTED. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 22, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200.
What is true is that not all 2002 cars are recalled, just certain serial/VIN numbers. Call the dealer and talk to him. Have your VIN number and the date your car was made handy.
Here is the the info fron the NHTSA.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 03V455000
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
Manufacturer: NISSAN NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Potential Number of Units Affected: 630000
Year: 2002
Make: Nissan
Model: Maxima
Manufactured
from: 2001-07-01
to: 2002-06-30
Recall Date: 2003-11-17
Summary:
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS.
THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR(S), AND IN SOME CASES, THE VARIABLE TIMING CONTROL SENSOR(S). VEHICLES INVOLVED IN A PREVIOUS RECALL CAMPAIGN, 01V357, ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THIS NEW CAMPAIGN. THE REPLACEMENT SENSORS USED IN THAT CAMPAIGN ARE ALSO AFFECTED. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 22, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200.
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