it happened.... (100k)
it happened.... (100k)
as of 12:30 last night going down the interstate, the maxima hit the good ol 100,000 miles
car has gutted cats, resonator removed, bc coilovers, and intake hack....
things that will be done by this week are,
timing chain
water pump
timing guides and tensioners
new axles and complete trans flush
es control arm bushings

what are somethings i should look at and replace at 100k??
car runs fine and smooth but i notice alot of heat soak... (idling after a few minutes and not having the get up and go till after 5 minutes of driving)
cel is on due to the o2 heater sensor malfuction
car has gutted cats, resonator removed, bc coilovers, and intake hack....
things that will be done by this week are,
timing chain
water pump
timing guides and tensioners
new axles and complete trans flush
es control arm bushings

what are somethings i should look at and replace at 100k??
car runs fine and smooth but i notice alot of heat soak... (idling after a few minutes and not having the get up and go till after 5 minutes of driving)
cel is on due to the o2 heater sensor malfuction
I had everything apart and only replaced the tensioners 50 miles prior to it snapping...
Not letting that happen to my 03
Although, I am thinking about jumping and getting collars and es sub frame bushings to tighten everything up...
I had scooped the car high and low to find no signs of rotting or anything... I had replaced the radiator about 2 years ago and didn't see no signs of anything then...
Although, I am thinking about jumping and getting collars and es sub frame bushings to tighten everything up...
Although, I am thinking about jumping and getting collars and es sub frame bushings to tighten everything up...
In the course of 12 - 18 months, I had the following replaced:
- both front wheel bearings
- ES bushings in the front sway bar
- Moog end-links for the front sway bar
- Moog outer tie-rod ends
- Moog ball-joints
- ES bushings in the lower control arms
Do all this to the front end of a 9 year old sedan, and you'll think your car is brand new again.
Because race-car.
I love seeing the PM work, but doing the Chain seems ridiculous to me. I guess the past experience would make you want to do it, I get that, but seems like a tremendous waste o' money to replace it when there's likely not a thing wrong with it.
Rochester's suggestion for the rad/engine support up front is a greatone. Catching that before it gets bad can save you large on engine mounts, diff bearings, and even just the part itself. You can patch it if it's not bad and it'll last for another 100k.
Rochester's suggestion for the rad/engine support up front is a greatone. Catching that before it gets bad can save you large on engine mounts, diff bearings, and even just the part itself. You can patch it if it's not bad and it'll last for another 100k.
I remember the first time I read about the rad support rot. Almost scared to look, LOL. Fortunately, after all these NE winters, there was just a lot of bubbly surface rust, but the beam is still solid.
Here's one, OP: after 100K miles, I wouldn't be surprised if your rear-control arm bushing was shredded.
One thing you don't need to change is that gas milieage.
Whats your secret?? Now that it is winter my trip computer is reading 22.3 and by hand it comes to 19 on a good day. Thats with driving like a 90 year old women says my dad haha
Whats your secret?? Now that it is winter my trip computer is reading 22.3 and by hand it comes to 19 on a good day. Thats with driving like a 90 year old women says my dad haha
No need to change the timing chain, especially on a VQ35 anybody who has done a swap will tell you its a BEEFY chain, seriously its leaps and bounds over the older 2 link chain designs, its REALLY not worth replacing. My old 2 link VQ30 chain has 250k one has 300k if it snaps or breaks then something was wrong with the VTC. Replacing the chain at this age is sort of like replacing the cams or valve springs because they have a few miles on them they might fail.
You can go ahead and change the water pump because it will eventually go out. Go ahead and do motor mounts, sway bar end links as well as the LCA bushings. Essentially everything that is rubber replace with urethane.
You can go ahead and change the water pump because it will eventually go out. Go ahead and do motor mounts, sway bar end links as well as the LCA bushings. Essentially everything that is rubber replace with urethane.
Also, did anyone know our cruise control doesnt accelerate or engage after 90mph?? Found this out on the toll road...
would say as everyone else - no need to do the timing, might even not need that for entire ownership of the car.
why to change axles if boots are not cracked or torn yet? just preventative?
take a look at the trans-axle bushings, they tend to crack and leak out on some cars
and better check that engine light, as something else might/might not have popped up in addition to that o2 heater code - get a sim for gutted cats
why to change axles if boots are not cracked or torn yet? just preventative?
take a look at the trans-axle bushings, they tend to crack and leak out on some cars
and better check that engine light, as something else might/might not have popped up in addition to that o2 heater code - get a sim for gutted cats
if your changing the chain, might as well put in a new motor. Probably be the same price lol. No need to do the chain, thats why vqs are great. Just make sure your on top of your oil level.
This guy is exactly right.
as of 12:30 last night going down the interstate, the maxima hit the good ol 100,000 miles
car has gutted cats, resonator removed, bc coilovers, and intake hack....
things that will be done by this week are,
timing chain
water pump
timing guides and tensioners
new axles and complete trans flush
es control arm bushings

what are somethings i should look at and replace at 100k??
car runs fine and smooth but i notice alot of heat soak... (idling after a few minutes and not having the get up and go till after 5 minutes of driving)
cel is on due to the o2 heater sensor malfuction
car has gutted cats, resonator removed, bc coilovers, and intake hack....
things that will be done by this week are,
timing chain
water pump
timing guides and tensioners
new axles and complete trans flush
es control arm bushings

what are somethings i should look at and replace at 100k??
car runs fine and smooth but i notice alot of heat soak... (idling after a few minutes and not having the get up and go till after 5 minutes of driving)
cel is on due to the o2 heater sensor malfuction
I do a lot of back and forth to work and home... Mostly stop and go traffic. Off work, I do a lot of driving to Oklahoma... Sucks here in the city and my lead foot but once I see it getting good gas mileage, I baby it...
My 02 Max currently has 94K on it though.
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lowpost99
1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988)
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Oct 20, 2015 07:42 AM
sdotcarter
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
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Sep 2, 2015 09:53 PM



Im looking to do all ES bushings, and Moog Endlinks in Jan....


