eclipse98

iTrader: (1)

Hey yall

So i guess my maxima is long overdue for replacment of lower control arms i pretty much have all kinds of tools except for

24-27 mm sockets and ratchet to remove the nut holding the axle in place. My question is as follows

Is it possible to replace the lca without loosning the nut holding the axle or do i need to go out there and buy those tools?

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

I'm pretty sure you have to take off that axle nut unless you find another way to loosen the ball joint nut below there.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Your prob going to have issues with the ball joint castle nut anyway so just take a dremel or angle grinder and cut it off.then you wont need to remove the axle nut.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

As mentioned above, all depends on the condition of your ball joint castle nut.

If you have the right sized box wrench (adjustable won't fit, it's tight in there) and the nut is in good condition, then you can definitely remove the LCA without removing the axle nut.

If your castle nut has gone to mush like many do, then you'll have to cut it off in some way - and axle nut/axle will have to be removed from spindle so that you have room to work.

Also, you may have some issues removing the lower nut from the sway bar link on the driver's side. I've seen quite a few instances in which this (for some strange reason) has turned into a rusted/seized mess and needs to be cut off. Take your time with it.

Ferrarimangp

Like djfrestyl said, if your ball joint nut and tie rod link castle nut look anything like mine did when I replaced them over the weekend, you'll need to grind them off. Otherwise you could get away with it.

Ball joint:


Tie rod:


Why don't you want to remove the axle nut? If it's giving you problems trying to remove it, use a long steel pipe over your breaker bar to increase your leverage, that's also what mine required lol.

imported_Nismo_max

iTrader: (5)

i just recently did my control arm bushing and luckly i didnt need to remove axle nut, (my ball joint castle nut was still fairly new and not rusted).. one thing i came to a problem was my end links, man those thread are rusted and if your not carefull you can ruin the part where there's that (ball joint in the rear of the end links) i should know, i shredd up one nut but lucky there's the other side of the links where i was able to remove it with ease , i suggest might as well replaced those end links too..it will help you have a better feel, on the steering part also.. after that remove 2 rear bolt, and the 4 middle one and then the one in the front..assuming ball joint castle nut already been removed...

240sxguy

iTrader: (1)

Beware, you may find the sleeve for the bushing on that 27mm nut part is seized to the "bolt". I had to cut/airchisel one of mine off, what a pain that was. Don't even try using a cheap crappy open ended wrench on the castle nut, they are torqued pretty tight and one slip from an open ended wrench = taking the axle nut off.

Also, instead of using a ball joint seperator, hit the cast knuckle a few good whacks with a hammer after getting the nut off and it should drop right off.

I did ES front bushings (my oem ones were cashed) and it made a huge difference. My balljoints were still in good shape.

I see you are replacing the full arm, so you can cut the nut off if you want to. I found it faster just to undo the axle nut and move everything around so I could get a socket on it. Granted I have a good impact gun so there isn't much that will slow me down.

Good luck with the project.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Precisely.

Might as well replace them with Moog. They'll be half removed anyway, and both sides can be had for $35.

bullet187

If you get a 22 mm flare wrench, you can take off the nut without stripping it.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

That's an awesome method but using 2 hammers is better....If you miss the knuckle and damage the boot you'll be replacing it anyway....So using one hammer to place against the knuckle and the other hammer to strike the hammer against the knuckle minumizes boot damage on balljoints, tierods, etc....

eclipse98

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the input i replaced the control arm and while at it i found the passenger side axle worn out well not the boot but the joints inside are broken so i replaced that as well all in all it took me 4 hours to do it in my garage would have been much easier if i had a hoist but i managed

I took it out for a drive today and there is quite a difference in driving however i keep hearing a noise in the front passenger side as if something is loose. I pretty much changed the following

Axle
Lower control arm
Sway bar link
Inner tie rod

But the noise is still there i am assuming the only 3 parts which i havent changed are

Strut mount
Axle hub
And sway bar bushings

I cant think of anything else that must be causing the sqeeky/loose noise

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Check the passenger engine mount, also. Strut mounts can be examined by having someone help you do a lock to lock inspection. Don't hesitate on the sway bar bushings. You can order the ES for cheap, and they're fairly quick to change.

eclipse98

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info do u have info on how to examin the motor mount and the strut mount

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

On your swaybar endlinks may i suggest using 2 large hardened washers on either side where it attaches to the LCA.i only say this because i had replaced mine with MOOG parts and the hole(oval)in the LCA was a little loose and allowed movement of the endlink making a noise but after the washers no noise.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Best way is to take the mount out and inspect it for cracks or loosness of the center tube.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

stick a large prybar under the passenger motor mount and lift (there's a hole in the chassis right under the mount, stick the pry bar tip in this) and listen!

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

If you do need Mounts hit Knight_yyz up in this thread http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-protoype.html he has made some really nice poly mounts for our cars.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

YES!!!

I could not agree with you more.

Max_Gator

What procedure did you use to tighten the 27mm nut on the LCA?

I ask because I just changed mine but tightened the 27mm nut without putting the car on the ground.

The FSM doesn't specifically address tightening that nut but does say generally that when installing rubber suspension parts, everything should be tightened in an "unladen" condition - which it defines as wheels on the ground.

I am still feeling some looseness in the suspension which I'm guessing might be caused by the way I tightened the 27MM. Or it could be just the need for an alignment. I suspect it doesn't even matter whether the car was laden or not when I tightened that because it is supposed to rotate.

I don't want to do the alignment until I get all of the suspension parts correctly installed.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I do both. Install and tighten when it's off the ground, take it for a drive, then check and tighten again when on the ground. It really shouldn't matter though.

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Somethings not right in the terminology...usually, suspension components are tightened with the car's weight on them....and that's laden, not unladen.

Bushings need to be tightened in their "normal" position to prevent abnormal preload.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I disagree. It's fairly difficult to tighten much at all when the car is on the ground and the wheels are on. Ball joints, end links, lower strut bolts, etc are all tightened when unladen. The only you can do are upper strut nuts, and control arm bolts under the car. Everything else suspension related is accessible with the wheel removed.

The original question is silly and unnecessary to begin with.

Max_Gator

I didn't much care for the fsm terminology - seems backward. I think what they meant was without any additional load.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

This makes perfect sense.

Max_Gator

Why the heck is that a silly question?

I did what you suggested in fact but read the fsm and it isn't clear. In fact out suggests the opposite of what I did

but thanks for the response.

Chunk

Might need a torch to burn the bushings out. Depending on the corrosion I had to do this a few times on my other nissans.