Amave

make sure you didnt cross thread, or else, you need a new pump

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

If he's giving it hell like it sounds then he's most likely already screwed or doesnt have proper tools and screwed it on by hand.

BenKruise

Thanks for the detailed write up on this issue.

I tackled this job yesterday and it was super easy, 1 hour start to finish! (This is including having to do it over after I realized the second washer fell off.)

Some key hints:
Use PB Blaster on the sensor, flare nut, and banjo bolt. Give it some time to work it's way into the threads.
When going back in with the banjo bolt, take your time! Do not use any tools to get this bolt started or you will be sorry!
Aftermarket replacement (GATES) will require both washers, one after after the bolt before the hose, and one after the hose before the pump.

The banjo bolt should be the 1st part off and the 1st part back on.

Now its time to do the control arm due to the leaking fluid eating away my bushings and ball joints!

Oh Happy Days!

CA Inf i30

2000 and it just went out 8-2012. 12 years, did better then most.

I stripped the female side of the hose insert that connects to the 10mm flare nut. In case you need to retap the threads it is M14x1.5.


<img src="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60519435@N04/7909086174/in/photostream">



Also I stripped the nut on the 10mm flare nut. The crows feet wrench didn't do the trick. I got these new wrenches that work wonderfully, called "anti-slip" wrenches. They have pits on the two side walls and debit points in three inside angels of wrench. Grabbed the edges and didn't let it go.

<img src="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60519435@N04/7909085578/in/photostream">

<img src="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60519435@N04/7909085012/in/photostream">

When bleeding, the fluid bubbled out. Make sure to have a rag around the reservoir or catch pan below.

Instead of using the positive displacement pump from the auto parts store which cost $7 or $8 dollars. I just used the dispenser (which is a positive displacement pump in its self) from a soft soap like container. Hold the outlet dispenser when starting to prime the pump and get fluid flowing.

<img src="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60519435@N04/7909086704/in/photostream">

I purchased my hose from the dealer. It is now $206 as of this date. It had a new p/s pressure sensor on it already. All of the parts online stores that have OME Nissan parts was $152-$164 with shipping that all equaled $164 to have it sent. I wanted to get it taken car of today so I spent the extra $60 (with California sales tax) to get it now.
No whrring noise.

photos <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60519435@N04/sets/72157631357066370/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/60519435@N04/sets/72157631357066370/</a> in case they don't show up

kbohip

I replaced the high pressure ps hose on my wife's Maxima last week too. Only thing is it's a 1991 and it was original! The 3rd gens definitely hold up better than the 5th's. It was a piece of cake for me, and it was only $35 shipped from Amazon for a Beck/Arnley hose. No buzzing noise with my wife's, but mine continues to buzz years later on my '02.

sixysixss

Thanks for the pictures. They will help me when I tackle this project this weekend.

2000azmaxima

Total time for job 6 hours. This includes 2 bike trips to ace hardware once for a 24mm socket for the banjo bolt, it appears a crescent wrench just wont cut it, another for use of their vice to get the pressure sensor switch off the old hose. Average that out and i was at 1 hours per bolt/screw.

After i got the banjo bolt off, after getting my 24mm socket and using a "shyt ton" (technical term) of leverage i thought I was in the clear. I went to remove the pressure switch. I started off with a crescent wrench. After nearly rounding the damn thing I swapped over to a open end wrench (the whole time I have another wrench holding the hose to provide counter leverage), any who. The open end didn't work, saw that people recommended a flair wrench, tried that, didn't work. Vise grips, didn't work, PB blast...no go. Heat gun, nope.

I cut the hose off and took the thing to ace to see if there was some other wrench nope. BUT, the helpful guy at ace suggested the vice. Novel. Went in, shoved the hose into the vise and pulled till i was blue in the face. Not so much as a budge. Added some leverage and I successfully moved their work bench a good foot or so. The ace guy was sure the bolt was reverse thread, i knew it wasn't, he just couldn't believe it. The guy had a really, really good idea, we put two small square metal rods on the actual sensor then placed the SENSOR END in the vise, i then used a giant crescent wrench, plus a cheater bar and after some very serious pulling (approximately 2 shyt tons), it finally broke. I'm roughly 195lbs, plus the lever arm, plus me pulling = there was no way in hell i was going to be able to get this off without a vise, no way.

That's my tip, use a vise when all else fails.

Oh and the other hose line that connects into the hose felt like I was stripping goign in, but it's just a tight *** fight...i mean really, really tight.

The thing put back together in about 30 minutes. So basically 5 and a half ours for what amounted to 2 bolts...that's just nuts.

GL if you decided to attempt this job. On the plus side no more leaking...but i still have an annoying whining sounds, can't tell if it's the AC compressor or the actual PS pump.

Amave

^ sounds like you got the aftermarket hose ...FWIW i still have the buzz but no leaks and no problems whatsoever

Thorzdad

Well, guess what finally went out in a blaze of glory on my Maxima? The pressure hose!
Got the OEM part from Tri-Cities Nissan (thanks for the hat!) and am going to tackle this myself, with some help from younger backs.

Am I correct that the OEM hose comes with a new sensor in-place? It looks like it does.

Amave

Pretty sure it does NOT come with a new sensor , but you can compare the two hoses and see if it does...If it doesnt, no worries, get a torch and heat it up before cracking it loose ( you can buy a propane torch from Lowe's for less than $20 with propane tank ) add heat, and remove flame, add heat and remove flame etc. until it gets hot enough to expand , then crack loose

Thorzdad

If you look at the second picture in your original post...The black plastic **** thing at the lower right...Is that the sensor? If so, my new factory hose has it.

Thorzdad

And, never mind. After looking at the parts diagram, and looking closer at the part itself, I can confirm that the factory part does, indeed, come complete with a new sensor.

Thorzdad

Got the hose on and all is well. No more leaking. No more topping-off the reservoir.

03 I35

Is the part# of an 03 Maxima and 03 I35 the same?

Davewhitegt

Just replaced the high pressure hose my self on my 2000 Maxima with 157k miles on it. "TWICE" within two weeks. Do yourself a favor and don't use the Edelman cheap replacement hose. It's terrible. The whining noise from that hose was soo annoying, that after a week, I went and bought the OEM hose and took off the Edelman. I think their are other aftermarket hoses other then Edelman but they all look like the same cheap foreign stamped out garbage. I highly recommend to just spend the money on the OEM hose. No noise now what so ever. Not gonna lie though, the job is a little bit of a pain in the ***, but can be done with basic knowledge and basic hand tools. Getting the banjo bolt back in takes some patience, and full disclosure, I didn't attach the back bracket at the back of the motor. I just zip tied it back towards the firewall. Will be fine like that. Also, the flare nut at the top, did not untighten, or tighten very smoothly. Almost felt cross threaded, but it wasn't. Doesn't leak at all, and is perfectly quiet. Would also like to thank this site for giving me the info so I was able to do this job myself.

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

my edelman hose is quiet. did you bleed it correctly?