Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

I'm kind of confused here...... I just received a new MAF from Courtesy Parts Nissan and the MAF came with information stating that installing the new MAF requires the ECM to be reprogrammed. "refer to TSB NTBO1-036/ITBO1-029 for the special ECM ID Code that must be entered in the ASIST ECM Data screen to download the correct data"..... this Data is not available through the regular MY/Model look up.

I thought that disconnecting the battery would reset the ECM thus making the new MAF functional. I have a 2000 GXE.......

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

just disconnect the battery while your doing the swap and you should be fine that note applies to 5.5 gens

Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

Big Lou...... Thank You!!!!! I'll be swapping the part out in the morning......

Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

Installed a new MAF this morning. At first the engine ran like crap for a bit then performance started to increase. I put around 20 miles on the engine since the MAF change, maybe the ECU had to cycle and adjust to the new MAF? The car has 139,000 on the clock, so I'll be planning to change the following sensors as well. Knock Sensor, Crank Sensor, Camshaft Sensor, O2 Sensors, IACV. Are there any other sensors that I should be aware of for a 2000 GXE?

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

there are several sensors on the these cars man..but its if not broke dont fix it. You gonna spend a lot of money replacing all those sensors especially if there isnt a SES light on for them. It would really be a waste of your money to do so. Also make sure you tightened everything back up really well because you don't want unfiltered air getting in your engine.

sascuderi

make sure that the MAF electrical connection clip is on correctly. When I replaced my MAF years ago I did not get the car reprogramed and everthing ran fine as soon as the car was started.

A very common reason for poor perfromace at start up is the coils on the plugs...they tend to go bad (mine did at 40K miles) and will give a rough idle at start up which improves as you drive. There is usually a check engine light too.

Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

MAF Update.... Performance seemed decent while driving to work after the Maf install. Car still does not pull as it has in the past. Seems as though the engine is choking or something. My SES light came back on after 120miles of driving.... I do have a pre- cat issue PO430 that will be resolved on Monday. I think the cars poor performance may be to failing coils but, I dont have any codes for the coils. They look like they are the first set on the car, they dont have grey dots on them. I also still have the issues of the engine being on the rough side until the car warms up. I can warm the car up to operating temp but, It'll still be on the rough side unless I let it warm up for a half hr or so. Other than getting sensors changed and replacing the pre-cat (PO430) I dont know what to do.

broadwayblues35

Wow, I could have written this. Waiting on a reply with you...

Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

Had the pre-cat installed on Monday..... It took the shop a long *** time to install the thing, they broke a few of the bolts and had the drill them out.. Oh well cant complain too much, it only cost me $80 for the install.. I still have a code, PO161, Bank 2. Is there a fuse for this sensor? As, I'll replace the fuse before the sensor if the fuse is found to be blown.

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

I doubt its a fuse. When I replaced my back 2 precat I got a SES for bank 2 sensor 2 O2 sensor(which is what your getting too). I just got a bosch direct replacement and changed it myself, no more code.

Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

Big Lou, did you get the sensor from Nissan, OEM?

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

heck no! way too overpriced for me. Bosch is what the dealer uses IIRC anyways(just color coded wire) so I went to advance website and used a discount code to order it. For a Cali spec you would need either part number 13374 or part number 13348 I cant remember which one you need because I had to get both downstream O2 sensors and this was back in July.

Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

Ok thank you, I'll check my Local Advanced Auto Parts Store. Additionally, I'll likely be replacing my Y-pipe as well. The flex section looks like its on its way out. I went to the Warp speed website but, it states that the bank 1 pre-cat is eliminated and should still pass the smog test.... Wont I get a SES light with out the bank 1 pre-cat? Otherwise it looks like I'll have to get the Y-pipe from Rock Auto.

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

^^^yea you'll get a ses without that cat but most guys just get O2 sim or just leave the O2 sensor plugged in the connector and secure it under the engine. You would have to search for those answer because I have a stock exhaust setup and my knowledge of exhaust stops there lol

Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE!!!!! Replaced Bank 2 Sensor that threw a PO161 Code. Just went through the SNIFFER Test here in Dirty Jersey....... Passed.... now its time to get the fuel system cleaned and replace knock, camshaft and crankshaft position sensors.

Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

Update Continued...... So far no SES nor codes present after traveling 100 miles round trip to and from work. Car still seems like its choking though or what seems to be a lack of torque. I still think that I may have an exhaust leak around the flex section of the Y- pipe. Maybe that explains the poor torque. Additionally, I still have to warm up the car for close to 30mins for the engine to feel smooth especially after sitting overnight in the cold. The car idles @ approx 1000 to 1250 rpm on cold start up and slowly idles down as the engine warms. But, as I stated the idle and engine revs seems rough for a half hr or more. More, when its colder out.... plugs were changed over a month ago.........