Car won't start
02-15-2012, 07:25 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
Car won't start
Hey all,
I have looked around without any luck.
Can anyone please tell me what is happening here.
When I try to start the car the clock and my after market radio shuts off and the car doesn't struggle to start. If I turn the back one click the clock and radio comes back on.
Everything seems to have power to it when cracking the key except for the clock and sterero shuts off.
The battery was replaced about 2 weeks ago. I tried boosting it and still no go, it doesn't even struggle to start.
I noticed my postive battery terminal was crack so I thought I was getting enough juice so I replaced it but still no go.
I tested the battery and it reported 11.6v, I tested my Ford edge and it came back as 12.6.
Is there somthing wrong with the battery? Is 11.6 low? If its a Battery issue then why wouldnt a boost work?
Any help/directions will be great.
I am thinking its the alternator.
Thoughts
Again thank you kindly
I have looked around without any luck.
Can anyone please tell me what is happening here.
When I try to start the car the clock and my after market radio shuts off and the car doesn't struggle to start. If I turn the back one click the clock and radio comes back on.
Everything seems to have power to it when cracking the key except for the clock and sterero shuts off.
The battery was replaced about 2 weeks ago. I tried boosting it and still no go, it doesn't even struggle to start.
I noticed my postive battery terminal was crack so I thought I was getting enough juice so I replaced it but still no go.
I tested the battery and it reported 11.6v, I tested my Ford edge and it came back as 12.6.
Is there somthing wrong with the battery? Is 11.6 low? If its a Battery issue then why wouldnt a boost work?
Any help/directions will be great.
I am thinking its the alternator.
Thoughts
Again thank you kindly
02-15-2012, 07:35 PM
#2
Have the alternator voltage checked ... I'll bet your not putting out the correct voltage which would explain your radio and other accessories turning off and there is insufficient power stored the battery.
When my alternator went it was only putting out 6 volts
When my alternator went it was only putting out 6 volts
Last edited by Ghost_54; 02-16-2012 at 06:56 AM.
02-15-2012, 08:08 PM
#4
a bad alternator is not going to prevent a car from starting if the battery is charged on being jumper from another car.
I am unsure of what you are describing. Does the engine turn over but not fire?
Does the starter click but doesn't turn over the engine?
Do you not hear any clicking at all as if the circuit to the starter in broken?
We'd need more info to help you out here.
I am unsure of what you are describing. Does the engine turn over but not fire?
Does the starter click but doesn't turn over the engine?
Do you not hear any clicking at all as if the circuit to the starter in broken?
We'd need more info to help you out here.
02-16-2012, 12:49 AM
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 98
Are your serious??? LOL MINE TOO 2 HOURS AGO, I went to wal mart after work 10:30pm and my car started reving by its self when i got into wal mart parking lot but lights are all still on, car still pulls but only up to 1800rpm and it wont pull anymore even with more throttle. So i went into wal mart thinking maybe its nothing came back out and still did the same thing until finally i drove about block down the max completely dies. Had to run back into wal mart and buy a frikin tow rope $26 and tow it home tonight 
After some research it is and im sure it is my alternator!! Here are my symptoms of how i conclude this:
-the max starts when i jump start it and turns over but will NOT run for more than 2secs
-New battery from last year still has warranty(nothing special just a duralast gold)
-Starter flickers(hence turning over but not running)
-The max died slowly from running VS dieing from when you/I start the car, if it dosnt start thats more than lilkly and electrical prob/starter
-Im thinking the reving by its self is suppose to be a safty feture where the motor is trying to generate voltage to its electrical components since alternators are powerd but by belts, i forgot if its the drive or the serpent
This is a 2002 Maxima 6sp 145k Miles original starter and alternator
After some research it is and im sure it is my alternator!! Here are my symptoms of how i conclude this:
-the max starts when i jump start it and turns over but will NOT run for more than 2secs
-New battery from last year still has warranty(nothing special just a duralast gold)
-Starter flickers(hence turning over but not running)
-The max died slowly from running VS dieing from when you/I start the car, if it dosnt start thats more than lilkly and electrical prob/starter
-Im thinking the reving by its self is suppose to be a safty feture where the motor is trying to generate voltage to its electrical components since alternators are powerd but by belts, i forgot if its the drive or the serpent
This is a 2002 Maxima 6sp 145k Miles original starter and alternator
Last edited by vq_ryder; 02-16-2012 at 01:05 AM.
02-16-2012, 12:55 AM
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 98
a bad alternator is not going to prevent a car from starting if the battery is charged on being jumper from another car.
I am unsure of what you are describing. Does the engine turn over but not fire?
Does the starter click but doesn't turn over the engine?
Do you not hear any clicking at all as if the circuit to the starter in broken?
We'd need more info to help you out here.
I am unsure of what you are describing. Does the engine turn over but not fire?
Does the starter click but doesn't turn over the engine?
Do you not hear any clicking at all as if the circuit to the starter in broken?
We'd need more info to help you out here.
02-16-2012, 01:03 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: BRONX
Posts: 720
This happend to me twice, lucky I had someone with me to start it while I banged the starter with A bat..... Car wouldn't start at all, banged starter few times while friend was turning key and started up LOL. happend twice in two years and never again....hope this might help someone. Also it was A autozone starter thats been in the car for three years the most....original had A squeal that was annoying lol so I changed it myself.
02-16-2012, 01:07 AM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 98
This happend to me twice, lucky I had someone with me to start it while I banged the starter with A bat..... Car wouldn't start at all, banged starter few times while friend was turning key and started up LOL. happend twice in two years and never again....hope this might help someone. Also it was A autozone starter thats been in the car for three years the most....original had A squeal that was annoying lol so I changed it myself.
I had a nissan 200sx SE-R and it craped out all the time and everytime i tapped the starter itll start right back up, did this for about 6 months, the girlfreinds wasnt really fond of it nor was it easy on the eye when people are driving by "wtf is this guy doing" hehe.
02-16-2012, 06:30 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
Wow this all is all great updates guys. Some people at work I asked and they also claim its the alternator but others say is not because you would still be able to jump start it. The ones that claim its not they mention its the starter and it give it a little bang. No idea where the starter is located in my maxima GLE 2000
02-16-2012, 06:33 AM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
a bad alternator is not going to prevent a car from starting if the battery is charged on being jumper from another car.
I am unsure of what you are describing. Does the engine turn over but not fire?
Does the starter click but doesn't turn over the engine?
Do you not hear any clicking at all as if the circuit to the starter in broken?
We'd need more info to help you out here.
I am unsure of what you are describing. Does the engine turn over but not fire?
Does the starter click but doesn't turn over the engine?
Do you not hear any clicking at all as if the circuit to the starter in broken?
We'd need more info to help you out here.
It doesnt turn at all and yes it doesnt fire
Do you not hear any clicking at all as if the circuit to the starter in broken?
When I turn the key I hear the clicking but doesnt fire. At one point i heard it struggling to start for like 2 secs (this was this morning) and then nothing after that.
But your correct I should be able to jump start it if its the alternator. Can it be the starter?
Thanks all for your help so far
02-16-2012, 07:38 AM
#13
1. Everything seems to have power to it when cracking the key except for the clock and sterero shuts off.
2. The battery was replaced about 2 weeks ago. I tried boosting it and still no go, it doesn't even struggle to start.
3. I noticed my postive battery terminal was crack so I thought I was getting enough juice so I replaced it but still no go.
2. The battery was replaced about 2 weeks ago. I tried boosting it and still no go, it doesn't even struggle to start.
3. I noticed my postive battery terminal was crack so I thought I was getting enough juice so I replaced it but still no go.
2. Battery just replaced kind of rules the battery out
3. Don't understand this at all can you re-word it? Your battery terminal is cracked/damaged?
Again, the clock and radio are SUPPOSED to shut off while in "START" (Cranking) position.
Now that that's cleared up. You got a wicked picture posted for you from AznRyan. In the item circled (starter solonoid), there are going to be 3 connections. 2 are large, one is small. What you want to do is follow the small one it's a black wire. It comes off the starter solonoid back toward the battery where there's a plug. This plug is only about 8" away from the starter so it should be easy to find.
Now that you've found the plug, disconnect it. Grab a cheap 12 volt incandecent test light (any peo boys, autozone, whatever, under $5), hook the ground clamp end onto your battery NEGATIVE terminal, and probe (lighted end) into the plug you just disconnected, on the BATTERY side of the plug (opposite of the starter).
Then have a friend turn the key to try and crank the car over, if the test light lights up, you probably need a starter. You can try plugging the wire back in, having your friend hold the key in the 'start' position again, and LIGHTLY tapping the starter with a hammer or block of wood, sometimes this will free it up and get it working. Either way, you'll still need a starter, as the one you have is faulty.
DO NOT HIT THE STARTER SOLONOID!!! (this is the part with the wires on it). You want to hit the cylinder NEXT to the solonoid, which is the actual starter motor that mounts to the engine.
There are further tests you SHOULD be doing, but they're more complicated, just make sure all your battery connections look good and are tight before buying a starter. A bad battery connection can cause this problem even if you have power to the 'trigger' wire (the one you tested with your test light)
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 02-16-2012 at 07:41 AM.
02-16-2012, 09:36 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
1. That's supposed to happen. I know everyone's done this once when there car won't start, thinking something major becuase of this. But rest assured, even when your car is working properly, this happens. ITS SUPPOSED TO.
2. Battery just replaced kind of rules the battery out
3. Don't understand this at all can you re-word it? Your battery terminal is cracked/damaged?
Checking an alternator has nothing really to do with voltage. What you check for is AMPERAGE, which is the FLOW of energy that charges your battery.
Again, the clock and radio are SUPPOSED to shut off while in "START" (Cranking) position.
This. I had a chuckle at all the suggestions of alternator. The alternator charges the battery (restores the battery) while the engine is RUNNING, that is the Alternators ONLY job. If the engine isn't running, then the alternator is doing NOTHING. This means that it's almost impossible for an alternator to directly cause your car not to start.
Now that that's cleared up. You got a wicked picture posted for you from AznRyan. In the item circled (starter solonoid), there are going to be 3 connections. 2 are large, one is small. What you want to do is follow the small one it's a black wire. It comes off the starter solonoid back toward the battery where there's a plug. This plug is only about 8" away from the starter so it should be easy to find.
Now that you've found the plug, disconnect it. Grab a cheap 12 volt incandecent test light (any peo boys, autozone, whatever, under $5), hook the ground clamp end onto your battery NEGATIVE terminal, and probe (lighted end) into the plug you just disconnected, on the BATTERY side of the plug (opposite of the starter).
Then have a friend turn the key to try and crank the car over, if the test light lights up, you probably need a starter. You can try plugging the wire back in, having your friend hold the key in the 'start' position again, and LIGHTLY tapping the starter with a hammer or block of wood, sometimes this will free it up and get it working. Either way, you'll still need a starter, as the one you have is faulty.
DO NOT HIT THE STARTER SOLONOID!!! (this is the part with the wires on it). You want to hit the cylinder NEXT to the solonoid, which is the actual starter motor that mounts to the engine.
There are further tests you SHOULD be doing, but they're more complicated, just make sure all your battery connections look good and are tight before buying a starter. A bad battery connection can cause this problem even if you have power to the 'trigger' wire (the one you tested with your test light)
2. Battery just replaced kind of rules the battery out
3. Don't understand this at all can you re-word it? Your battery terminal is cracked/damaged?
Checking an alternator has nothing really to do with voltage. What you check for is AMPERAGE, which is the FLOW of energy that charges your battery.
Again, the clock and radio are SUPPOSED to shut off while in "START" (Cranking) position.
This. I had a chuckle at all the suggestions of alternator. The alternator charges the battery (restores the battery) while the engine is RUNNING, that is the Alternators ONLY job. If the engine isn't running, then the alternator is doing NOTHING. This means that it's almost impossible for an alternator to directly cause your car not to start.
Now that that's cleared up. You got a wicked picture posted for you from AznRyan. In the item circled (starter solonoid), there are going to be 3 connections. 2 are large, one is small. What you want to do is follow the small one it's a black wire. It comes off the starter solonoid back toward the battery where there's a plug. This plug is only about 8" away from the starter so it should be easy to find.
Now that you've found the plug, disconnect it. Grab a cheap 12 volt incandecent test light (any peo boys, autozone, whatever, under $5), hook the ground clamp end onto your battery NEGATIVE terminal, and probe (lighted end) into the plug you just disconnected, on the BATTERY side of the plug (opposite of the starter).
Then have a friend turn the key to try and crank the car over, if the test light lights up, you probably need a starter. You can try plugging the wire back in, having your friend hold the key in the 'start' position again, and LIGHTLY tapping the starter with a hammer or block of wood, sometimes this will free it up and get it working. Either way, you'll still need a starter, as the one you have is faulty.
DO NOT HIT THE STARTER SOLONOID!!! (this is the part with the wires on it). You want to hit the cylinder NEXT to the solonoid, which is the actual starter motor that mounts to the engine.
There are further tests you SHOULD be doing, but they're more complicated, just make sure all your battery connections look good and are tight before buying a starter. A bad battery connection can cause this problem even if you have power to the 'trigger' wire (the one you tested with your test light)
Thank you kindly
02-16-2012, 08:02 PM
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 34
A bad alternator can suck a battery down to where it will not start. New battery or not. And even when trying to jump start it with a fully charged battery jump. Happens all the time. When checking the charging system you should be putting out a minimum of 14 volts or you most likely have an alternator failure.
I'd guess an alternator without being able to test it myself. But certainly you have to take care of the battery terminal end. Always eliminate the obvious. Hope this helps.
I'd guess an alternator without being able to test it myself. But certainly you have to take care of the battery terminal end. Always eliminate the obvious. Hope this helps.
02-16-2012, 10:17 PM
#19
A bad alternator can suck a battery down to where it will not start. New battery or not. And even when trying to jump start it with a fully charged battery jump. Happens all the time. When checking the charging system you should be putting out a minimum of 14 volts or you most likely have an alternator failure.
I'd guess an alternator without being able to test it myself. But certainly you have to take care of the battery terminal end. Always eliminate the obvious. Hope this helps.
I'd guess an alternator without being able to test it myself. But certainly you have to take care of the battery terminal end. Always eliminate the obvious. Hope this helps.
02-17-2012, 06:02 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
Update,
So last night I took the MAF out along with the filter to get access to the starter and the solonoid. After replacing the battery terminals fot both red and black the connections are now nice and tight. I had my wife crack the key while I start to hit the starter NO GO nothing changed.
I took a screw driver to connect the solonoid to see if it might be the problem but same thing no go. When I turn the key I dont even here the crank as aka strugling to start.
Can the starter be that dead/damanged that a hammer to it wont at least start it?
At this point isnt there only three things it can be? Starter, solonoid or battery?
Thanks All
So last night I took the MAF out along with the filter to get access to the starter and the solonoid. After replacing the battery terminals fot both red and black the connections are now nice and tight. I had my wife crack the key while I start to hit the starter NO GO nothing changed.
I took a screw driver to connect the solonoid to see if it might be the problem but same thing no go. When I turn the key I dont even here the crank as aka strugling to start.
Can the starter be that dead/damanged that a hammer to it wont at least start it?
At this point isnt there only three things it can be? Starter, solonoid or battery?
Thanks All
02-17-2012, 06:25 AM
#23
Update,
So last night I took the MAF out along with the filter to get access to the starter and the solonoid. After replacing the battery terminals fot both red and black the connections are now nice and tight. I had my wife crack the key while I start to hit the starter NO GO nothing changed.
I took a screw driver to connect the solonoid to see if it might be the problem but same thing no go. When I turn the key I dont even here the crank as aka strugling to start.
Can the starter be that dead/damanged that a hammer to it wont at least start it?
At this point isnt there only three things it can be? Starter, solonoid or battery?
Thanks All
So last night I took the MAF out along with the filter to get access to the starter and the solonoid. After replacing the battery terminals fot both red and black the connections are now nice and tight. I had my wife crack the key while I start to hit the starter NO GO nothing changed.
I took a screw driver to connect the solonoid to see if it might be the problem but same thing no go. When I turn the key I dont even here the crank as aka strugling to start.
Can the starter be that dead/damanged that a hammer to it wont at least start it?
At this point isnt there only three things it can be? Starter, solonoid or battery?
Thanks All
Hitting the starter is a last resort, it rarely works. Sometimes the piece that engages to start the engine (pinion) sticks and that's why tapping it LIGHTLY can sometimes free it up temporarily. It's not a fix or a way to 'test' your starter. You were supposed to test it first.
Glad to hear you got the terminals nice and buttoned up, but you need to perform the test I laid out for you. If you're expecting someone to answer your problem without you actually doing anything to diagnose it, then you should run with the "it's your alternator" answer everyone gave you, and waste your money on an alternator.
02-17-2012, 06:51 AM
#24
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
Well, did you even do what I told you to?
Hitting the starter is a last resort, it rarely works. Sometimes the piece that engages to start the engine (pinion) sticks and that's why tapping it LIGHTLY can sometimes free it up temporarily. It's not a fix or a way to 'test' your starter. You were supposed to test it first.
Glad to hear you got the terminals nice and buttoned up, but you need to perform the test I laid out for you. If you're expecting someone to answer your problem without you actually doing anything to diagnose it, then you should run with the "it's your alternator" answer everyone gave you, and waste your money on an alternator.
Hitting the starter is a last resort, it rarely works. Sometimes the piece that engages to start the engine (pinion) sticks and that's why tapping it LIGHTLY can sometimes free it up temporarily. It's not a fix or a way to 'test' your starter. You were supposed to test it first.
Glad to hear you got the terminals nice and buttoned up, but you need to perform the test I laid out for you. If you're expecting someone to answer your problem without you actually doing anything to diagnose it, then you should run with the "it's your alternator" answer everyone gave you, and waste your money on an alternator.
Will report my findings and get back.
Thanks lot for your help that you been giving me so far.
Last edited by playtoy; 02-17-2012 at 06:54 AM.
02-17-2012, 11:38 AM
#25
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
Quick question, since it will most likly be the starter, is it something that is DIY on your driveway and can it be taken apart from under the hood or do I need to go under the car to get it out? So want to know its something that I shouldn't even bother with and just take it in rather wasting hours on it while a pro can do it in a hour or so.
Thanks
Thanks
02-17-2012, 03:02 PM
#26
Starter is an easy replacement. The hardest/longest part of the job is removing the accessories to get access to the starter. Definitely a job you can do from the driveway without having to get under the car.
02-17-2012, 04:52 PM
#27
IIRC, you need a 14mm and 17mm socket for this job, with a long extension and preferrably a flex head ratchet. Then a 10mm for the solonoid wire/battery wire I think.
Thats really about it dude it's super simple.
No one does, but you are supposed to change the starter relay every time you change the starter. Just a heads up. I never have though, I don't even know where it is.
Also, make sure you check for the ground cable that comes off near the starter and over to the inner fender, make sure it's connected and looks good. This is a common failure that will cause starting problems, you're there anyways so make sure you look, and if it's questionable, get a new ground wire installed.
02-17-2012, 05:13 PM
#28
This is just a googled answer, on the starter relay location.
"The starter relay is in one of the two relay boxes located in the Maxima's engine compartment; one box is located along the left-hand edge near the power steering pump, and the other is in front of the battery in the right front corner. The relays contained in each box are printed on the covers for easy locating."
source - Chilton Nissan Maxima Repair Manual
"The starter relay is in one of the two relay boxes located in the Maxima's engine compartment; one box is located along the left-hand edge near the power steering pump, and the other is in front of the battery in the right front corner. The relays contained in each box are printed on the covers for easy locating."
source - Chilton Nissan Maxima Repair Manual
02-17-2012, 05:38 PM
#29
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 306
Just one relay in the 2000 Maxima starting circuit. It's labelled the Inhibitor Relay next to the battery. I had similar problems about a month ago. Replaced ignition switch and relay but problem continued. Replaced starter and problem is fixed. Bought a new one from Amazon for $90. Took about 2 hours to install. Like someone else said, most of the work is removing the things in the way. I needed to buy a breaker bar to remove the starter. You'll need a good ratchet/socket set. Search google for instructions. There was a good Youtube video.
02-18-2012, 04:24 PM
#32
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
Will report my findings. You guys been great help
Thanks again
02-21-2012, 10:04 AM
#33
Yes...only two bolts, but you have to be careful not to round off the heads. More than likely you'll need a breaker bar. I would also recommend using some penetrant on the two bolts before you start. Let it sit about 30 minutes and then do it. It will make your job much easier.
When reinstalling use anti-seize on the bolts so you can take them off easier if/when you need to remove them again.
When reinstalling use anti-seize on the bolts so you can take them off easier if/when you need to remove them again.
03-09-2012, 08:30 AM
#34
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
Update
I finally got the part and had time to install the new starter yesterday. Once the new starter was installed car started like new. I would like to thank everyone that helped me out on this, you guys saved me a lot or coin not brining the car in for repairs.
Thanks again
I finally got the part and had time to install the new starter yesterday. Once the new starter was installed car started like new
. I would like to thank everyone that helped me out on this, you guys saved me a lot or coin not brining the car in for repairs. Thanks again
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