djfrestyl's DEFINITIVE "I HAVE A SUSPENSION QUESTION" THREAD!!!
Hey djfrestyl,
Need some help here. I bought my '00 Infiniti I30t in January. Immediately I could tell the front suspension needed attention. After inspection I could clearly see that swaybar bushings were shot as well as endlinks. That got rid of most of the noises and loose feeling in the front suspension. Over the months I began accumulating parts for the rest of the suspension. After inspection couple weeks ago I could see both outer tie rods had play in them as well as 1 inner tie rod. Also I could see the passenger side LCA bushing was showing signs of wear from a PS hose leak. So I decided to have my mech change LCA bushings, balljoints, and inner & outer tie rods. The front suspension feels stiffer but I can feel like something is loose under the car. I don't recall this being there before changing all these stuff. It feels as if something is really loose. Could the endlinks have somehow been damaged during this as it feels very similar to this. I check for play in at 12 & 6 as well as 3 & 9 and there is none. The rattling is not directly link to suspension movement on a whole as it happens on specific road conditions like pothole ridden streets. Also, all engine mounts are fine with the exception of the rear. How can I check for sure if its the end links? Take them off and check their movement? Thanks.
*EDIT* I did some more investigating this morning. Found out the passenger side swaybar bushing is shot again. PS hose probably still leaking. Guess it's time for ES bushings. These won't be affected by that right? Also I foudn the sound coming from the inner tie rod area. As stated before there is no play at 3 & 9 but with the vehicle on the ground if I get under and grasp the tierod I make replicate the rattle and its coming from the area where it meets the steering rack. As mentioned it was not there before changing these. It can only be replicated in the air if i jack up the LCA to simulate the load of it being on the ground. Could it be a bad tie rod despite no play at 3 & 9 or is it sounding like something with the rack?
Need some help here. I bought my '00 Infiniti I30t in January. Immediately I could tell the front suspension needed attention. After inspection I could clearly see that swaybar bushings were shot as well as endlinks. That got rid of most of the noises and loose feeling in the front suspension. Over the months I began accumulating parts for the rest of the suspension. After inspection couple weeks ago I could see both outer tie rods had play in them as well as 1 inner tie rod. Also I could see the passenger side LCA bushing was showing signs of wear from a PS hose leak. So I decided to have my mech change LCA bushings, balljoints, and inner & outer tie rods. The front suspension feels stiffer but I can feel like something is loose under the car. I don't recall this being there before changing all these stuff. It feels as if something is really loose. Could the endlinks have somehow been damaged during this as it feels very similar to this. I check for play in at 12 & 6 as well as 3 & 9 and there is none. The rattling is not directly link to suspension movement on a whole as it happens on specific road conditions like pothole ridden streets. Also, all engine mounts are fine with the exception of the rear. How can I check for sure if its the end links? Take them off and check their movement? Thanks.
*EDIT* I did some more investigating this morning. Found out the passenger side swaybar bushing is shot again. PS hose probably still leaking. Guess it's time for ES bushings. These won't be affected by that right? Also I foudn the sound coming from the inner tie rod area. As stated before there is no play at 3 & 9 but with the vehicle on the ground if I get under and grasp the tierod I make replicate the rattle and its coming from the area where it meets the steering rack. As mentioned it was not there before changing these. It can only be replicated in the air if i jack up the LCA to simulate the load of it being on the ground. Could it be a bad tie rod despite no play at 3 & 9 or is it sounding like something with the rack?
Hard to tell - are you sure the tie rod ends are installed properly?
Lateral link and control rod from installing struts? I don't think so.
Hey buddy, i have my eibach springs all around and i feel like my rear is lower than id like it to be. I would like to raise my rear by 1". Ive read many threads about coil spring spacers and ES poly spacers and they sound like a good idea to me but theres no solid info or parts numbers for something that would fit the rear on my 5.5 gen.
Any advice?
Any advice?
Eibachs are ridiculously harsh anyway.
Sorry, the truth hurts
I'd like to do my rear trail arm bushings as they are leaking.. Would it be advisable to replace the control rod with qt link? I'm a bit confused in my research and could use help figuring out what I should do and which parts I should replace..
I never got those kyb's to stop clunking btw.. Mechanics have told me it's how it rides.. One shop even went as far as to say the rear shocks I ordered were too short even though they were the correct model number. Inner tie rod ends and inner tie rods are supposedly fine.. Frustrating because of the harsh ride.. I honestly can't see anything that's causing this under the car.. Should I go for a stillen fstb? progress rear sway bar to stiffen them up?
I never got those kyb's to stop clunking btw.. Mechanics have told me it's how it rides.. One shop even went as far as to say the rear shocks I ordered were too short even though they were the correct model number. Inner tie rod ends and inner tie rods are supposedly fine.. Frustrating because of the harsh ride.. I honestly can't see anything that's causing this under the car.. Should I go for a stillen fstb? progress rear sway bar to stiffen them up?
Doesn't hurt to do the control rod link. Not needed though. And OEM replacement is fine.
Are you SURE it's the struts? Not a motor mount? Sway bar link? Something doesn't sound right with the install, or it's just another part that sounds like struts. Too bad you're not closer to NJ.
Seems to me it's a case of the repair shop trying to scare the customer into a massive repair bill when another option exists that would end up costing less. I'm thinking that after being told by the shop the "rear strut mounts were destroyed".
However, new OE rear strut mounts are in and no more creaks. Got them done Sunday.
Well, as long as everything worked out.
It's not usually the mount itself, it's the small rubber bushings that are within it. They *can* go soft or get deformed from the pressure - but it's rare that they're so bad they can't be reused. I've only seen one mount with bushings that bad. You're #2.
Some struts (ahem: Illuminas) come with replacement bushings for the rear. A really nice touch.
It's not usually the mount itself, it's the small rubber bushings that are within it. They *can* go soft or get deformed from the pressure - but it's rare that they're so bad they can't be reused. I've only seen one mount with bushings that bad. You're #2.
Some struts (ahem: Illuminas) come with replacement bushings for the rear. A really nice touch.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,218
From: Mississauga, ON, CANADA
QT link?
ok so instead of starting a new thread i decided to post here... took these pics back in the summer but never got around to posting it here... basically i want don't know what to do with this. i want a new bushing in there or replace that whole link (qt link?) cause it just looks like the bushing is disintegrated lol
i've searched for how to but i got links to that fancy adjustable qt link from the sentra for us :/ the cars gonna be lowered come spring and i'm already halfway done fixing things up front and i'd like the rear refreshed as well.
i want to know
-where to get one and cost?
-should i get the adjustable one?
-how do i go about replacing it and can i do this with a buddy or am i gonna need to take it to a shop?
Thanks
Rene
i've searched for how to but i got links to that fancy adjustable qt link from the sentra for us :/ the cars gonna be lowered come spring and i'm already halfway done fixing things up front and i'd like the rear refreshed as well.
i want to know
-where to get one and cost?
-should i get the adjustable one?
-how do i go about replacing it and can i do this with a buddy or am i gonna need to take it to a shop?
Thanks
Rene
Except for the adjustable one, I don't think an aftermarket replacement is available. So it's a matter of OEM/dealer vs adjustable. Just get the one that's cheaper if you don't care about the adjustability (plenty of people are lowered without the adjustable one).
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 52
Hey djfrestyl, met up with you once before - wanted to know if I could bring my car over and have you check out the front end. If you remember, car was fine until I had Firestone change out the front passenger wheel bearing and tie rod..had issues immediately after, and they've been getting worse:
-lots of resistance when trying to turn right (very noticeable at speed)
-front passenger wheel vibration (very noticeable on highway)
-bump steer (wheel always turns left over bumps)
-click from front right when I hit a bump at slow speeds sometimes
-creaking/moaning from front end in the morning
-car pulls left on highway
I suspect it could be the balljoint? But I've had my local mechanic under the car and he doesn't see anything wrong. Still, I drive a lot these days and the last thing I want is the balljoint failing and my wheel flying off at 70mph.
-lots of resistance when trying to turn right (very noticeable at speed)
-front passenger wheel vibration (very noticeable on highway)
-bump steer (wheel always turns left over bumps)
-click from front right when I hit a bump at slow speeds sometimes
-creaking/moaning from front end in the morning
-car pulls left on highway
I suspect it could be the balljoint? But I've had my local mechanic under the car and he doesn't see anything wrong. Still, I drive a lot these days and the last thing I want is the balljoint failing and my wheel flying off at 70mph.
Even if BJ fails, wheel won't fall off.
Definitely sounds like they didn't do something right - possibly with the axle when doing the bearing. Did they change the axle or just wheel bearing? Did they change the hub or just press in a new bearing?
Definitely sounds like they didn't do something right - possibly with the axle when doing the bearing. Did they change the axle or just wheel bearing? Did they change the hub or just press in a new bearing?
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 52
So I paid for a hub & bearing replacement on both sides, and a passenger tie rod, but my local mechanic saw the car days afterwards and said there was no evidence of anything being done on the drivers side, and I still had the old tie rods on. When I *****ed Firestone out they refunded some money (for the tie rod) and put a new axle on, but the car still had issues.
Anyhow, I just got back from my local mechanic and he just checked it out - turns out I have a torn boot on my passenger axle and need to replace the passenger lower ball joint (there was play in the wheel when we had it on the lift). This will be the third passenger side axle in 1.5 years lol. $80 for labor, now I just need to source the parts (thinking Moog LBJ and raxle.com axle).
Think replacing these should solve my myriad of issues above?
Anyhow, I just got back from my local mechanic and he just checked it out - turns out I have a torn boot on my passenger axle and need to replace the passenger lower ball joint (there was play in the wheel when we had it on the lift). This will be the third passenger side axle in 1.5 years lol. $80 for labor, now I just need to source the parts (thinking Moog LBJ and raxle.com axle).
Think replacing these should solve my myriad of issues above?
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 24
From: Florida
In 2010 I installed Monroe Strut-Mate strut mounts and it seems from day one that they have always clicked or creaked if you will. This only seems to be noticeable when stationary. Is this a common problem? I've been doing a lot of reading on this over the past few months because I think I'm going to replace them and put new struts on as well. I'm thinking about going with Moog strut mounts this time per this forum.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 24
From: Florida
I realized after posting that I left a few important facts outs. The noise is coming from the front. While the car is stationary and at low speeds such as backing out of the driveway, if I turn the steering wheel I hear a clicking sound. This weekend I actually had someone sit in the car and turn the steering wheel for me while I take a look under the front fender well. I could visibly see the top hat of the strut assembly binding while the steering wheel rotated the strut. What is binding? I don't know, but it has done this since day one after installing Monroe strut mate parts, is very aggravating and I just let it go. The car was aligned, it drives straight and does not make the sounds at driving speeds, or at least I could not hear them. I checked one other thing as well. I opened the hood and bounced on the car to see if there was any play at the strut bolt as to see if the rubber inside the strut mount (mate) was still good. There was very very little play visible, so to my knowledge the rubber inside there has held up. IMO the strut bearing (little plastic washer) is binding. Not sure if this has to do with the durometer of the plastic or the material, but it is binding somewhere above the top hat. One other thing I would like to mention is the spring sits securely in the top hat when strut is rotating.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 52
So I paid for a hub & bearing replacement on both sides, and a passenger tie rod, but my local mechanic saw the car days afterwards and said there was no evidence of anything being done on the drivers side, and I still had the old tie rods on. When I *****ed Firestone out they refunded some money (for the tie rod) and put a new axle on, but the car still had issues.
Anyhow, I just got back from my local mechanic and he just checked it out - turns out I have a torn boot on my passenger axle and need to replace the passenger lower ball joint (there was play in the wheel when we had it on the lift). This will be the third passenger side axle in 1.5 years lol. $80 for labor, now I just need to source the parts (thinking Moog LBJ and raxle.com axle).
Think replacing these should solve my myriad of issues above?
Anyhow, I just got back from my local mechanic and he just checked it out - turns out I have a torn boot on my passenger axle and need to replace the passenger lower ball joint (there was play in the wheel when we had it on the lift). This will be the third passenger side axle in 1.5 years lol. $80 for labor, now I just need to source the parts (thinking Moog LBJ and raxle.com axle).
Think replacing these should solve my myriad of issues above?
Do I have any options other than OEM? Lastly...any way to save $$$ on an OEM piece? All people talk about on the .org are Raxles but apparently those aren't an option...
Last edited by CiViCKiDD; Jan 28, 2013 at 01:58 PM.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
Need a little feedback....
2k max. Just replaced passenger side axle because of cv joint. Do all my work myself, so know it was done well.
I have been getting at times a creaking sound (almost scraping sound - don't think it is brake shield) and occasional pop when rolling straight. Am getting the typical bad cv joint click when turning. And when I get on it, I sometimes get what feels like a wobble.
My thought is that I have a bad bearing (215,000 miles) AND that my replacement axle is bad.
However, I had to have an alignment after the cv joint change since I have camber bolt on that side. Told the tech what was up and looked at it while up.
Didn't see any top to bottom play in the pass side wheel which would indicate bad bearing (although i thought I recall some during past work). Only thing he found was side to side play in driver's side wheel which was coming from LCA bushing.
Amazingly, I just replaced those bushings 10k ago. Have done inner/outer tie rods/lca/balljoint/endlinks within that same time. Suspension is in my sig and that's a few years old but still in good shape. I don't see anything going on with the strut or mount.
Tech gave me bs that it was cv on my other axle. All symptoms are CLEARLY on pass side. So, he is wrong.
So . . . bearing? cv joint (it was napa) or both?
Thanks in advance.
2k max. Just replaced passenger side axle because of cv joint. Do all my work myself, so know it was done well.
I have been getting at times a creaking sound (almost scraping sound - don't think it is brake shield) and occasional pop when rolling straight. Am getting the typical bad cv joint click when turning. And when I get on it, I sometimes get what feels like a wobble.
My thought is that I have a bad bearing (215,000 miles) AND that my replacement axle is bad.
However, I had to have an alignment after the cv joint change since I have camber bolt on that side. Told the tech what was up and looked at it while up.
Didn't see any top to bottom play in the pass side wheel which would indicate bad bearing (although i thought I recall some during past work). Only thing he found was side to side play in driver's side wheel which was coming from LCA bushing.
Amazingly, I just replaced those bushings 10k ago. Have done inner/outer tie rods/lca/balljoint/endlinks within that same time. Suspension is in my sig and that's a few years old but still in good shape. I don't see anything going on with the strut or mount.
Tech gave me bs that it was cv on my other axle. All symptoms are CLEARLY on pass side. So, he is wrong.
So . . . bearing? cv joint (it was napa) or both?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Max_Gator; Jan 29, 2013 at 05:57 AM.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-03-Nissan...3c3ae3&vxp=mtr
Or this set which seems to have a non-electronically controlled front motor mount
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271032620050...S:1123&vxp=mtr
I've seen the front motor mount only for $90 on eBay; I should just go for the set that includes the electronically controlled front mount and be done with it.
Plus, I recall it being said you can silicone or epoxy the rubber on the motor mounts to make 'em last longer, is there any truth to that?
passenger side wobble
Hey fellas, my car is making a obnoxiously loud wobble from the passenger side and i have know idea what it is, so far I've change bearings hub and tie rod ends...Please help, thanks in advance
Spoke to Marty @ raxles.com, and it turns out they don't make axles for 2002-2003 AT Maximas, and if I had a 6MT they could maybe get me a drivers side axle...but I have the 4AT. Bummer.
Do I have any options other than OEM? Lastly...any way to save $$$ on an OEM piece? All people talk about on the .org are Raxles but apparently those aren't an option...
Do I have any options other than OEM? Lastly...any way to save $$$ on an OEM piece? All people talk about on the .org are Raxles but apparently those aren't an option...
Make sure the warranty is decent.
Need a little feedback....
2k max. Just replaced passenger side axle because of cv joint. Do all my work myself, so know it was done well.
I have been getting at times a creaking sound (almost scraping sound - don't think it is brake shield) and occasional pop when rolling straight. Am getting the typical bad cv joint click when turning. And when I get on it, I sometimes get what feels like a wobble.
My thought is that I have a bad bearing (215,000 miles) AND that my replacement axle is bad.
However, I had to have an alignment after the cv joint change since I have camber bolt on that side. Told the tech what was up and looked at it while up.
Didn't see any top to bottom play in the pass side wheel which would indicate bad bearing (although i thought I recall some during past work). Only thing he found was side to side play in driver's side wheel which was coming from LCA bushing.
Amazingly, I just replaced those bushings 10k ago. Have done inner/outer tie rods/lca/balljoint/endlinks within that same time. Suspension is in my sig and that's a few years old but still in good shape. I don't see anything going on with the strut or mount.
Tech gave me bs that it was cv on my other axle. All symptoms are CLEARLY on pass side. So, he is wrong.
So . . . bearing? cv joint (it was napa) or both?
Thanks in advance.
2k max. Just replaced passenger side axle because of cv joint. Do all my work myself, so know it was done well.
I have been getting at times a creaking sound (almost scraping sound - don't think it is brake shield) and occasional pop when rolling straight. Am getting the typical bad cv joint click when turning. And when I get on it, I sometimes get what feels like a wobble.
My thought is that I have a bad bearing (215,000 miles) AND that my replacement axle is bad.
However, I had to have an alignment after the cv joint change since I have camber bolt on that side. Told the tech what was up and looked at it while up.
Didn't see any top to bottom play in the pass side wheel which would indicate bad bearing (although i thought I recall some during past work). Only thing he found was side to side play in driver's side wheel which was coming from LCA bushing.
Amazingly, I just replaced those bushings 10k ago. Have done inner/outer tie rods/lca/balljoint/endlinks within that same time. Suspension is in my sig and that's a few years old but still in good shape. I don't see anything going on with the strut or mount.
Tech gave me bs that it was cv on my other axle. All symptoms are CLEARLY on pass side. So, he is wrong.
So . . . bearing? cv joint (it was napa) or both?
Thanks in advance.
Go with ES...
Did some searching for those cheap ebay mounts and turned up this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-03-Nissan...3c3ae3&vxp=mtr
Or this set which seems to have a non-electronically controlled front motor mount
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271032620050...S:1123&vxp=mtr
I've seen the front motor mount only for $90 on eBay; I should just go for the set that includes the electronically controlled front mount and be done with it.
Plus, I recall it being said you can silicone or epoxy the rubber on the motor mounts to make 'em last longer, is there any truth to that?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-03-Nissan...3c3ae3&vxp=mtr
Or this set which seems to have a non-electronically controlled front motor mount
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271032620050...S:1123&vxp=mtr
I've seen the front motor mount only for $90 on eBay; I should just go for the set that includes the electronically controlled front mount and be done with it.
Plus, I recall it being said you can silicone or epoxy the rubber on the motor mounts to make 'em last longer, is there any truth to that?
Need more info. Does it happen at all speeds? Worse at higher speeds? When braking perhaps?
You'll notice a minor difference, but not in a bad way, just in a different way.
That's assuming your mounts currently are working. If they're not, you'll notice a difference in a good way. Go for it.
Last edited by djfrestyl; Feb 2, 2013 at 05:41 AM.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
Strange thing though, bad bushing is on the drivers side. Clearly sound is on the right passenger. I'm also getting typical bad cv joint sound and that damn wobble occasionally.
I'm pretty good with maxima suspension and it is def not the bushing that is causing the majority of issues. I will just chalk up the sqeak while rolling to the bushing for argument sake. But that clearly isn't causing all of the symptoms.
My real question is "Are these bearing symptoms?"
I guess I'm just going to replace the passenger axle again and see what happens.
Let me know if you have any more thoughts. and thanks!
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
I installed the axle - have probably done 10-12 of them on maximas. Kinda hard to mess up passenger side axle . . . It is bolted into the bracket and axle nut is tightened to spec. I'm not aware of any way to put it in wrong.
Just strange.
Thanks.
35% could be blown motor mounts and other worn suspension parts.
And I'd say that MAYBE 5% are your bumpstops.
If it's the latter, I'd check wheel balance and brakes. Any normal mechanic should be able to diagnose pretty easily.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 602
Awesome thread!
I'm getting a rattle on the driver side at speeds between 15-35 on un-even roads or very small bumps, such as sewer covers. My ears are telling me that the rattle is coming from somewhere high on the strut. A mechanic said my upper mounts looked fine when he had it on a lift, but the tie rods have play in them and should be replaced.
Would the tie rods cause this rattle or should I have someone take a closer look at the upper mounts? BTW I'm on tokiko blues with H&R springs, if that helps at all.
I'm getting a rattle on the driver side at speeds between 15-35 on un-even roads or very small bumps, such as sewer covers. My ears are telling me that the rattle is coming from somewhere high on the strut. A mechanic said my upper mounts looked fine when he had it on a lift, but the tie rods have play in them and should be replaced.
Would the tie rods cause this rattle or should I have someone take a closer look at the upper mounts? BTW I'm on tokiko blues with H&R springs, if that helps at all.