How would you compare 'any' spring (say eibach or HR) w Illumina struts using your above analysis?

 

Illuminas are adjustable...but only 5 way. Some coilovers are as much as 36-way adjustable.

 

Hmm interesting.... well I have no idea what 5-way vs 36-way means haha.... time for more research!!

Oh and yes thanks I read the shift ice page, and I measured the correct way this time - I'm 27.5in up front and 27.25in in back. So a moderate drop (HR or Eibach) should get me to 26.25 or just over 26 all around (if I did the math correct). At the point where trying to figure out if adjustable struts are worth the extra $$ or not.

 

5 settings vs 36 settings.

 

How's it going Dj, have really bad right front noise from my 03 Max SE, it's a auto. It sounds like the shock is dead but I replaced all 4 upon buying the car, Some one had told me its the engine mount, but I just want some more input, it sounds likes something is loose in the front and about to fall off when ever i go over any type of bumps either big or small and I hear it over speed bumps as well even if I slow down as slow as I can to go over it I hear it when the car drops down but not loud very faint but I hate it, the only time don't hear the noise is on the highway or a smooth road of course, the noise is really irritating me and I really can't enjoy my car, BTW it's my first car and I've been dreaming about this for years. Any help at all would be great

 

Newbie here just reading and trying learn... I WILL be back

 

Thanks DJ..

so preload is not preset?
about your other post what kind of maintenance they require just lubricating them every once in a while anything special i am not planning on slamming the car just 2 " drop for with stock wheels how long will u say they will last the roads are not that bad

 

So I seem to have everything sorted out.. But I'm still just looking for shocks and struts that will last "forever" through bad Michigan winters, and super crummy roads for not only a daily driver, but a pizza driver..
KYB and Tokico seem decent enough, but I really really need something that won't fall apart when you drive 100+ miles a day everyday..
What would you recommend for this situation?
Should I just buy control arms with ball joints (is that an easier install?) Or just ball joints if it's ever deemed as needing them?

 

I believe that is the definition of energy suspension parts. They are stiff and won't give in to punishment or oils either.

 

Cleaning the threads, tightening the collars, and put some anti-seize on the threads so they don't corrode.

 

You're talking about two different things.

I'd go with KYB struts.
Then, get Energy Suspension control arm bushings and have them pressed into your existing arms. Also have Moog ball joints pressed into those same arms.

Or, buy a set of already-ready arms from me

 

Hey Dj, Can you take a look at post #405, I don't want to re-post, I would like to get your opinion on if changing my motor mounts will help me out, or sway bar bushings and end links, Thanks

 

It's hard to tell by your description because all you mentioned is 'front end' as the location, but I'd start with doing the engine mount test. Ebrake on, car in drive, foot firmly on brakes pedal. While keeping foot on brake pedal, hit the gas and look for excessive movement from the engine. You'll need a partner to help. This would indicate front/rear mounts. You should also be able to see the condition of the passenger mount this way.

 

I’ve purchased a 2002 Maxima SE back in January and it has been a great car thus far. The only problems I’ve had was a catastrophic radiator failure and a slow leak from the power steering pressure line. Everything is bone stock except the stereo (replaced the skipping BOSE changer with a Pioneer Nav). Now that I have both of those issues fixed I’m looking to improve the stance.

I tend to rack up a lot of miles in a year and the suspension is feeling a little squishy anyway so I thought I would look into an upgrade and was wondering what suggestions you may have. I’d like to fill the wheel wells a little more and get a more aggressive look without affecting ride quality too much. I’m happy with the factory rims (17” 6-spoke) and wasn’t really thinking of replacing them but if it would make a difference I might look into it.

Also, three of my rims have a bit of curb rash and I was wondering if you could recommend a repair shop (preferably central Ohio area).

I’ve been through the suspension forum but I know very little about suspension and a lot of it goes over my head. I appreciate any thoughts any of you might have.

 

In my previous post #405 I tried to explain my problem as accurate as possible, But I'll try the method you posted above, Thanks

 

Found out that Moog strut mounts are missing some parts. I'll check with Moog and replace with kyb mounts.

 

What parts would be missing?

Moog mounts come with three parts. The mount, the strut bearing, and 3 replacement nuts.

 

Ok I read the 11 pages and almost saw my question, but didn't

I have h&r springs 4years now, stock struts also 4years old none are leaking)
I replaced both the rear strut mounts 3weeks ago because I was experiencing a squeaky noise on any bumps. Left side went on normal.

The right rear mount was tough to get the top nut on with the springs compressed, the piston on the shock would depress slightly. Had to have neighbor hold top of shock with pliers as I held shock down to be able to thread the nut on. (Would this indicate bad shock? Right rear KYB shock)
The mounts solved the squeaky issue, but now when I hit a bigger than normal bump in the road I hear the clunk in the rear.
I push car down and get a normal bounce, cannot hear any clunk.

So would this be a indication of bad strut or bad mount I just put in?
If mount is failing what would I check for when I remove it?

Thanks

 

Hi
When taking a (turn the wheel all the way to the left)turn, the outer edge of the lower control arm hits the rotor and scores it.
I had bad ball joint and bad tie rods before I started and the LCA was not hitting the rotor when I took a hard left turn.

I removed the lower control arm passenger side and changed the ball joint (I used a c press to remove and install ball joint).
I also had bad tie rods (inner and outer both sides of car) and changed inner and outer tie rods.
When installing the outer tie rods I had to use a washer (between the outer tie rod nut and the wheel hub) because no matter how much I tightened the outer tie rod it would have a little play. I used the washer on both outer tie rods so they would be the same.

When putting on the LCA back on the car, i hung the LCA with loose bolts, tightened the ball joint then I torqued the LCA bolts (didn't use manual to find out the correct order of bolt

Other than shaving off a 1/4 inch of the LCA (so it won't hit the rotor on hard left hand turns) I am at a loss of what to fix/change/?

Other than the scraping the car drives normal (rear does clunk and have some slight rattle noise in front end over bumps, the LCA's were replaced 2years ago they were aftermarket ones and they did not scrape when doing hard turns)

Car has 186,000 miles, ball joint, inner tie rods were got from eBay.

Any thoughts, comments?

 

Rear mounts almost NEVER fail. In fact, I've only replaced one, ever, because it was so rusted that it pretty much disintegrated.

Are you sure the top nut is FULLY torqued down as far as it will go?

If you are, then consider just getting replacement bushings for the rear mount. That's really all you need.

 

I can't remember if the LCA bolts have necks that get wider closer to the top, but if they don't, then your LCA might be slightly misaligned.

Or bent?

Those are the only reasons I can possibly imagine that this would happen. I've personally never seen it.

 

Do the front struts and strut mounts HAVE to be the same brand?

or will two different brands work together?

 

I have used tokico struts with kyb mounts, no problems at all. Now I have kyb excel G struts with Moog mounts. A repair shop told me some part is missing from the strut mounts, which I am not so sure about.

 

If theres a part missing its probably the bearing and they probably lost it them selves

 

A friend installed the mounts a while back, same friend installed the 4 struts two months ago. I went to the repair shop to find out what's going on with the creaking springs and was told the mounts were missing something.

Monday I am going to drop off the maxima and let another shop look everything over. And hopefully install the used OE control arms + energy suspension control arm bushings. Oh my poor bank account lol

 

So ur saying the strut mount thats currently installed on ur car is missing something? That sounds crazy, the mount is 1 piece and thrn the bearing is another piece, if the bearing was missing you wouldnt be able to turn the wheel and its gotta have the 3 nuts on top holding it on. And inside the mount theres a nut in the middle holding the strut shaft. Maybe they meant another part of the strut assembly like the spring isolator on the bottom coil or the rubber under the spring hat

 

I totally have no idea which is why I got my car back and left. Take two on Monday at another repair shop.

 

That's my guess as well.

But 99% of the time if there's creaking the upper spring perch is not properly aligned. The "OUT" stamp has to be aligned with the lower strut bracket.

RR5, take detailed pictures when you're at the shop.

 

sent you a pm Dj

 

I am not sure if I'd be able to since I'm leaving the car and going to work. It's a smaller repair shop and I'm not positive I can ask the guy to leave my car on the rack so I can drop by and take some photos.

I'll let the shop tell me what they find without saying what was done.

 

Hey Dj, you told me in PM one time if I had a suspension question to let you know. This isn't necessarily suspension related but you're so knowledgable about everything that goes on in the fender wells I figured I'd see if you had any input on this problem I'm having. Here's a link to the thread I started about my possible ABS noise when in reverse. No rush man, I really appreciate you taking a look. I'm going to build a new box for my 15w6 this Winter to free up some trunk space and will be hitting you up for a spare tire cover as soon as I get it done.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...lp-please.html

 

So I just got new shocks and struts kyb brand and they are clunking.. New moog strut mounts, moog sway bar end links, and energy suspension sway bar bushings..

It feels like my old suspension 3 days after installation and took it to sears to have aligned and couldn't because tie rod ends on both sides need to be replaced..

drivers side being the worst, but was replaced at nissan dealer with after market part..

Took it back to nissan and they did 2 road tests with me and seems the strut could be defective..

They deny anything wrong with both of the tie rod ends, and wouldn't give me a free alignment..

I'm sick of shops lying and cheating me out of my money..

My buddy works at sears and wouldn't lie or cheat me and has been ase cert. for 25 years..

I don't have another strut to replace it with because the shop took the old part..

Paid an extra 100 bux thinking I was buying complete struts, but got regular parts from the amazon seller..

Nissan straight up lied to me and said my rusted coolant line didn't need to be replaced..
Also they denied any oil leaking, when I touched fresh oil on something and showed them to their face.. CROOKS!

I wish probonos worked automotive cases! Man.. Did I buy one hell of a lemon..

 

RR5 already answered your question (appropriately), but I responded to your PM as well

 

Posted in your thread, sir

 

So...are you still having an issue or did you get it resolved? Hard to tell from your post.

 

Sry to be so negative..
No, I didn't get it resolved.. the passenger side strut seems to bounce and clunk at random times. (Almost as if the strut piston is hitting something..)
However I no longer bottom out and scrape my front fender going up steep driveways and such. But when going over those railroad tracks, and chewed up roads around campus I for sure hear a nasty clunk from the passenger strut, and the drivers side shock in back..
The tie rod ends are not going to be easy to get nissan to replace since I had them installed less than 12,000 miles ago.. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna have to eat this mistake unless some magical miracle happens.. Moog makes tie rod ends..

 

I am very happy to have you on board with this thread

 

can somebody figure out this noise?? video:
http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=IMG_1153.mp4

it seems to be under the strut mount and above the strut hat area
parts replaced so far
both control arms with moog ball joints w/ ES bushings
both tie rod ends moog
both strut mounts w/ bearings moog
both endlinks moog
both sway bar bushings ES poly
both oem dust boots

 

Not to take away from this tread but more information is always helpful.

LINK

 

First, from your post above . . . that is the first time I've ever heard someone say that nissan techs are crooks for NOT SUGGESTING that something be repaired. . ..lol.

Next, If it seems that the strut piston is hitting something, it may be the bumpstop. The oem nissan bumpstop is completely different than the two piece crap fitting aftermarket bumpstop that everyone seems to use. That's why I only use OEM. If they didn't properly fit the aftermarket one (IME it has to be cut and then still doesn't fit right) I could see you getting a bump from not allowing the strut to move through its full range.