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Watch the vid I posted. It's not the tie rod. I checked that after and there's no play there.Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
A tip: Never rule anything out until you properly diagnose it. A tie rod could easily be your problem.
Dj, what is your opinion on S-Techs w/Illumina's? I have received some good feedback from other Org members, but after seeing this new thread you started, I'd figure i'd ask you for your opinion as well. Thanks!
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Man i seen that happen on a ford one time when the balljoint was shot stick a crowbar between the arm and spindle and step on it see if it lifts up.Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
Watch the vid I posted. It's not the tie rod. I checked that after and there's no play there.
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I'll give that a try. By boy thinks it might be the lower bolt where the strut attaches to the knuckle but I've had a broken one on the passenger side in the past and have never experienced anything like this.Originally Posted by cjandura
Man i seen that happen on a ford one time when the balljoint was shot stick a crowbar between the arm and spindle and step on it see if it lifts up.
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if its one of them camber adjustment bolts could be i snapped one when i was on spring/strut combo when i installed it they were the H&R onesOriginally Posted by ChrisMan287
I'll give that a try. By boy thinks it might be the lower bolt where the strut attaches to the knuckle but I've had a broken one on the passenger side in the past and have never experienced anything like this.
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They're Eibach ones from when I had my drop. One broke before but I replaced both with new ones. Even when that one broke, I didn't experience this.Originally Posted by cjandura
if its one of them camber adjustment bolts could be i snapped one when i was on spring/strut combo when i installed it they were the H&R ones
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Yeah gonna try the pry bar in the morning when I check the lower strut bolts. Originally Posted by luvlexus101
Damn dude that looks dangerous. Youtube the vids on checking that ball joint out with a pry bar.
And to think, I drove to CT and back two weeks ago. Two hours each way but it wasn't this bad though.
Senior Member
You don't need the pry bar if you jack up the control arm like I said to. But checking both ways is a very good idea.
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To do that, do I have to jack up both sides?Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
You don't need the pry bar if you jack up the control arm like I said to. But checking both ways is a very good idea.
Senior Member
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Me thinks it's the ball joint..
The outer CV boot is starting to tear as well..
WHOA!!!! Sweet baby jesus! Chris I hope to heck you're not driving that car man, you're going to be in some serious trouble, things are about to get really, really, really ugly.Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
As promised:Me thinks it's the ball joint..
The outer CV boot is starting to tear as well..
It's hard to tell from the video, although you did a great job of filming!! but it looks like the ball joint isn't the primary culprit. It's that lower strut mount. I don't know what was done, but something was wrong/loose or whatever. The video is choppy but I see shiny areas around the lower strut mount bolt, which is no surprise at all from themovement happening, the steel and bolt are pivoting and turning and literally eating away at the material, somethings about to go bang really really good.
Sorry for the crappy report but park that thing if you haven't already my man, she needs some love.
well i just figured out you can make youtube vids bigger well ChrisMan it looks like that camber adjust bolt did snap just like mine did it probly did it right on the offset too.DO NOT DRIVE THIS CAR you are NOT safe there is nothing really holding your wheel on but the one strut bolt and your axle is seperating.
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
WHOA!!!! Sweet baby jesus! Chris I hope to heck you're not driving that car man, you're going to be in some serious trouble, things are about to get really, really, really ugly.
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Originally Posted by MoncefA33
You may need to put those Ksports on early homie.
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Originally Posted by cjandura
well i just figured out you can make youtube vids bigger well ChrisMan it looks like that camber adjust bolt did snap just like mine did it probly did it right on the offset too.DO NOT DRIVE THIS CAR you are NOT safe there is nothing really holding your wheel on but the one strut bolt and your axle is seperating.
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Originally Posted by MoncefA33
You may need to put those Ksports on early homie.
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OMG. Please do not drive that car.
Thanks for the concerns. I decided to take it out for a spin and the wheel in fact came off while driving.Originally Posted by Rochester
I just watched Chris' video.
OMG. Please do not drive that car.
JK. Woke up, took the tire off and inspected everything. The ball joint has zero play and the tie rod only has its usual amount of play. Yes, the outer CV boot is now starting to separate but that'll get change later. The problem was the lower strut bolts. Both were loose. I too, them out for inspection but they were fine so I put them back in and torqued them down.
All is well! My front end feels great again. No more sloppiness, no more wheel movement, no more vibration. There's still a click so I'll just change the axle whenever I get around to it.
Senior Member
I can't imagine that those loose bolts didn't cause more damage, but it's all you dude, and without seeing it in person it's all speculation anyhow.
Just hope you're staying safe bro.
Just hope you're staying safe bro.
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I'm not a fan of S-Tech's in general because they're just so damn low, ride quality isn't great, and they wreak havoc on the rest of the suspension. Originally Posted by T_Behr904
Dj, what is your opinion on S-Techs w/Illumina's? I have received some good feedback from other Org members, but after seeing this new thread you started, I'd figure i'd ask you for your opinion as well. Thanks!
BUT if you MUST use S-Tech's, Illuminas are the only struts that can handle that aggressive of a drop and bring it back to a manageable level of discomfort.
The lowest I recommend going on lowering springs are Progress, but that's just me.
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I suspected the mounting bolts in the first 10 seconds of the video - there was movement at the top of the wheel, not the bottom which would indicate ball joint. Originally Posted by cjandura
well i just figured out you can make youtube vids bigger well ChrisMan it looks like that camber adjust bolt did snap just like mine did it probly did it right on the offset too.DO NOT DRIVE THIS CAR you are NOT safe there is nothing really holding your wheel on but the one strut bolt and your axle is seperating.
Chris, you don't look like you're nearly low enough to need camber bolts in the first place.
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My outer CV boot is now torn. That's the only damage. Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
I can't imagine that those loose bolts didn't cause more damage, but it's all you dude, and without seeing it in person it's all speculation anyhow. Just hope you're staying safe bro.
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Ball joints are super tight. There's no movement from there at all. I was on Eibach's before and used them in the upper bolt holes but now that I'm on the stock suspension they're in the lower bolt holes.Originally Posted by djfrestyl
I suspected the mounting bolts in the first 10 seconds of the video - there was movement at the top of the wheel, not the bottom which would indicate ball joint. Chris how low are you that you use camber bolts?
Yea I should have clarified. If there was movement at the bottom, that would indicate ball joint. I didn't suspect ball joint for a second. There was movement at the top, which made me think mounting bolts right away. Especially cause it was a controlled shift within a specific range - a range which is exactly equal to the amount of movement you get when the lower bolt is out.
Ah, makes sense. I don't care for camber bolts to begin with.
Ah, makes sense. I don't care for camber bolts to begin with.
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I only got em to play it safe. For $20, might as well lol That's for all the help guys. I'm happy to have my car back to the way it was.Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Ah, makes sense. I don't care for camber bolts to begin with.
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Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
Thanks for the concerns. I decided to take it out for a spin and the wheel in fact came off while driving.
(only lol because NOT true!)Quote:
BUT if you MUST use S-Tech's, Illuminas are the only struts that can handle that aggressive of a drop and bring it back to a manageable level of discomfort.
The lowest I recommend going on lowering springs are Progress, but that's just me.
If I still buy the used set of S-Techs/Illumina's i'm looking at, I'll keep this info in consideration. Originally Posted by djfrestyl
I'm not a fan of S-Tech's in general because they're just so damn low, ride quality isn't great, and they wreak havoc on the rest of the suspension. BUT if you MUST use S-Tech's, Illuminas are the only struts that can handle that aggressive of a drop and bring it back to a manageable level of discomfort.
The lowest I recommend going on lowering springs are Progress, but that's just me.
I checked Progress's website, and the only spring they list for Maxima's is for 6th gens. Is there anywhere else to get them, or are they discontinued?
Senior Member
Im pretty sure, but could be wrong, that Progress has been discontinued for the 5th gen for some time.
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I wouldn't doubt it. Google searching didn't turn up anything.Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
Im pretty sure, but could be wrong, that Progress has been discontinued for the 5th gen for some time.
Senior Member
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That's correct!!! You can only pray to get some used ones now! Mine are gonna be still wanted, when the day comes that I wanna de-Mod my 5.5th Gen....Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
Im pretty sure, but could be wrong, that Progress has been discontinued for the 5th gen for some time.

Senior Member
Might be a dumb question but...With all the talk about bad camber bolts. Are there any good/strong camber bolts available that won't break/loosen etc?
Senior Member
I'm not a fan of camber bolts in the first place, waste of money. They require you to cut up one end of the strut mount hole to fit the cammed portion in. If you're going to this extent, notching the strut holes a little bit will 9/10 give you way more camber adjustment then you need anyways. Camber bolts are only really useful for quicker adjustment when you're tuning a car's suspension.
Most everyone uses camber plates and rods now anyways. If you're doing anything that actually requires that much camber, you don't want to be cutting your struts up anyways IMO it's unsafe.
Most everyone uses camber plates and rods now anyways. If you're doing anything that actually requires that much camber, you don't want to be cutting your struts up anyways IMO it's unsafe.
Senior Member
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Most everyone uses camber plates and rods now anyways. If you're doing anything that actually requires that much camber, you don't want to be cutting your struts up anyways IMO it's unsafe.
Thanks for the info. Just curious in the event they might be needed to adjust for a new spring strut install plan. Got a good deal ($615. shipped) on a set of 4 BNIB; Eibachs, Illuminas, OEM Nissan F/R mounts and boots. Also have ES LCA bushings and need to get ES FSB bushings/Moog end links to complete the parts list for the project.Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
I'm not a fan of camber bolts in the first place, waste of money. They require you to cut up one end of the strut mount hole to fit the cammed portion in. If you're going to this extent, notching the strut holes a little bit will 9/10 give you way more camber adjustment then you need anyways. Camber bolts are only really useful for quicker adjustment when you're tuning a car's suspension.Most everyone uses camber plates and rods now anyways. If you're doing anything that actually requires that much camber, you don't want to be cutting your struts up anyways IMO it's unsafe.
Senior Member
How's the FAQ coming along? Need some ideas?
- Should I replace rear strut bearings?
- Should I replace the dust boots?
- Which dust boots should I buy?
- Ball-joints, FSB end-links and Tie-rod ends... OEM or Aftermarket?
- What work requires a follow-up Front End Alignment?
- What are the symptoms of a failing ball-joint?
- What are the symptoms of a failing FSB end-link?
- How often should I pack the grease fittings (if my parts have them)?
- How do I replace my FSB bushings, when and why?
- Wheel bearings... OEM or after-market?
Senior Member
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[*]Should I replace rear strut bearings?
Originally Posted by Rochester
How's the FAQ coming along? Need some ideas?[*]Should I replace rear strut bearings?
Probably never, if you do:

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Any time you're going on a trip?Originally Posted by Rochester
[*] How often should I pack the grease fittings?
Senior Member
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I've been more of a troll lately. I should work on that. Sorry Sir, I just couldn't resist.Originally Posted by Rochester
Helpful much, Matt?
Senior Member
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Good to know, I assumed that from your reply. It never hurts to clarify things.Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
You'll never need camber bolts for a spring/strut set up on this car.
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+1.Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
You'll never need camber bolts for a spring/strut set up on this car.
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No worries man. Your post is true though, feel bad for anyone that ever paid for REAR strut bearings.Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
I've been more of a troll lately. I should work on that. Sorry Sir, I just couldn't resist.
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Good stuff man. I'll start compiling when I've got down time at work (lol, as if that ever exists) and not trying to quickly respond on the run during the weekends.Originally Posted by Rochester
How's the FAQ coming along? Need some ideas?- Should I replace rear strut bearings?
- Should I replace the dust boots?
- Which dust boots should I buy?
- Ball-joints, FSB end-links and Tie-rod ends... OEM or Aftermarket?
- What work requires a follow-up Front End Alignment?
- What are the symptoms of a failing ball-joint?
- What are the symptoms of a failing FSB end-link?
- How often should I pack the grease fittings (if my parts have them)?
- How do I replace my FSB bushings, when and why?
- Wheel bearings... OEM or after-market?
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Snce you've got OEM mounts, I'd recommend getting some OEM strut bearings to finish off the parts list - that's the only thing you're missing right now.Originally Posted by BobPezz
Thanks for the info. Just curious in the event they might be needed to adjust for a new spring strut install plan. Got a good deal ($615. shipped) on a set of 4 BNIB; Eibachs, Illuminas, OEM Nissan F/R mounts and boots. Also have ES LCA bushings and need to get ES FSB bushings/Moog end links to complete the parts list for the project.
Also, lmk if you want to make the drive down to NJ for install day

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Yea, sucks they stopped making them. Def one of my favorites.Originally Posted by CMax03
That's correct!!! You can only pray to get some used ones now! Mine are gonna be still wanted, when the day comes that I wanna de-Mod my 5.5th Gen....
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If I do buy this used set of S-Techs/Illumina's, and I don't like those springs, I'll just keep a look out on e-bay and the classifieds here on the Org for a used set that pops up. Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Yea, sucks they stopped making them. Def one of my favorites.
Other than the Progress, what else do you recommend? I've driven Porsche's with H&R's, than those are really nice springs.