AWeb80

Why not new mounts/bearings if already in there doing struts?

At 82k miles my factory front bearings had blown their grease out and nearly dry.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Mounts were mentioned.

And the Moog ones come with bearings. So they're replaced implicitly

bennuss

what are all these other parts that i see besides for the spring?


All I got with my moog mounts was this.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

What you got with the Moog mounts are 54320 and 54325.

You DO need to replace 54050 - get it from the dealer ONLY.

Everything else you reuse from your existing setup, as they do not wear down. Only the above couple parts require replacing when you do a suspension. This is the proper way.

Max_Gator

Two questions dj.

One, I have to replace my lcas again. Crap napa wore out immediately. So, I have original lcas with es bushings and Moog ball joints. I recall reading that you need to pre load the suspension before tightening to spec.

Last time, I did not, I just jacked it up and installed. Which is correct. If it is pre load exactly how do I do that.

Two, I have this damn popcorn sound coming from the rear struts. I suspect it is that I didn't use a new gasket when I put on the Eibachs and illuminas. Gotten worse over time Any ideas about the cause?

Iirc, the gasket is ridiculously expensive oem.

Oh...One more, what should be replaced on the rear with high mileage?

Thanks.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

No such thing as preload when installing control arms.

By 'gasket' - are you referring to the spring isolator? The plastic/rubber tube that slides onto the lowest coil of the spring? If so, that piece is a must. You can just reuse the OEM one. If it's ripped up, just flip it over to the 'unused' side. Use electrical tape to hold it to the coil. Works like a charm.

The only other gasket is the orange paper gasket that goes on the strut mount to isolate between the mount and the car. That particular part isn't a must.

Max_Gator

Thanks. I'm talking about the paper gasket. Just trying to figure out if using the old one is why I get a popcorn sound from the rear struts. Don't really know how to explain the sound aside from that.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

It's not the paper gasket.

Max_Gator

any ideas?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

On your popcorn sound? Start with installing the missing spring isolators. Rule out the easy items first.

ateick

iTrader: (1)

Coilover help. Recently purchased a used set of Ksport Kontrol Pro coilovers for reallyyy cheap. Going in I expected to encounter problems but hey its a winter project while the car is away. Pretty much everything (collars, lower mounts) were seized or covered in dirt, grit, grime. I've taken everything apart and freed everything except one front coilover. The lower mount and dampening screw are both really seized. I have PB Blasted everything for about a week. I've tried a vice for lower mount and even pipe wrench with breaker bar on portion of shock with no threads and so far no go even with my 220lbs on it. Next step is heat gun I guess (not torch - don't worry I'm not crazy). Any other thoughts/suggestions? Any thoughts on the dampening screw? About the only thing that can be done there seems to be PB Blaster down the hole.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Hmm. That's rough. Sounds like you've done everything you can.

Might have to cut off the lower mount and replace it if the heat doesn't work.

Call K-Sport on the dampening screw. See if you can get a tech to make a couple suggestions on that. If your hex key is a quality one that's really all you should need.

ateick

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. That's what I thought. I'll keep soaking it in PB for the next week and take the heat to it. Ultimately I want to save the lower mount because replacing the shock will solve my dampening screw problem if that doesn't loosen.

A couple other questions if you don't mind. Does the pillowball mount articulate easily or does it take some force? Trying to determine the state of these. Mine are not seized but I can't move them by hand only with a slight tap of a hammer. Finally is their a R and L to these? I know the rears in the shock/struct configuration are interchangeable but I'm not sure of the fronts. There's no markings on them that would indicate any specific side and they seem identical once fully dissembled.

Thanks for your help.

Max_Gator

No missing spring isolators. I was referring to the paper gaskets in my original post. Possible that the isolators are bad?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Oh - my bad, I misread.

It's possible but hard for them to 'go bad' unless they're just missing altogether.

Poke around with someone moving the car. See if you can replicate it while you're under there. Also check out your trailing arm bushings.

How many miles on the struts? Are you sure they're installed properly? Center nut is tight?

Les7311

221K miles on 05 Max. Struts and Shocks, plus front end suspension parts change-out almost complete.


Should I change out the rear control arms also / anything else missing for the rear? Don't want to if I don't have to....

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Rear control arms don't have to be changed until the bushing goes bad. You would know if it did. There would be a clunk or groan or some sort of noise.

Les7311

Thank you for the timely response.

I might just change them soon as I heard that sound recently (could be triggered by the cold weather here).

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Yea, very likely. Cold weather is a nice diagnosis tool.

TallTom

Happy Holidays djfrestyl. I was wondering if you have installed a few sets of the torque mounts and if so, have you noticed any differences in quality between OEM and ebay mounts.

Long story: my OEM mounts wore out so I swapped them out with ebay mounts that lasted a year before failing. I had the mechanic use the ebay brackets to install the ES torque bushing and still think the drivetrain has more play than the 1st day the ebay mounts were installed (before they broke in).

I look down at the ES front mount and I swear that it looks like it is loose/twisted in the mount. I'm seriously considering going back to OEM mounts and pulling out the ES/ebay ones.

The pics don't show it, but the ES bushing appears more twisted in the bracket.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Yes, there absolutely is a difference in quality between eBay and OEM mounts - the bushings in the eBay mounts are much lower quality. But the metal itself should not matter.

If the ES mounts when in properly, there should be significantly less play than both OEM and eBay mounts. Coupled with a minor increase in general vibration felt through the car at idle.

TallTom

Thanks. there is definitely some play. I reinstalled the NWP brace link and feel less play with that so I just think I may order some OEM's and get them installed.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Very very strange. Hard to diagnose anything further without looking at it myself.

Let me know what you find.

Since you're in NYC, if you want to venture out to Jersey for me to do the work, let me know.

TallTom

I may take you up on it. I drive back to Philly about 1-2 times a month to visit family and friends. Roughly what area in Central NJ are you?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Between 8a and 9 off tpk.

TallTom

OK, cool. My wife and I have a friend in Monmouth Junction which is also between those exits. The guy was a Maxima owner and on these boards before I met him. He got out of the Max scene a few years ago.

TallTom

One last question, are there any RockAuto mounts that are as good as OEM?

ateick

iTrader: (1)

Well after a couple cans of PB and 4 days soaking in transmission fluid I finally got the lower mount free on these coilovers. Last thing is the damping screw and then I am good for the spring.

george__

iTrader: (1)

Good job!

How low are you going on your coilovers?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Any of the major brands should be fine. Anchor, Beck/Arnley, etc

ateick

iTrader: (1)

Just a bit lower than the current Eibach's I have. I'll have to see what height works the best for me. Nothing crazy for me. I look forward to the adjust-ability though. Especially the dampening.

george__

iTrader: (1)

Are you planning to swap out every year?

RR5

iTrader: (6)

This is embarrassing! I managed to get myself stuck on some snow last week and had to turn the steering wheel left/right full lock while slamming into reverse to drive to break free. Well I got free but now I get some metal screeching noise when I turn the steering wheel. Doesn't matter if the maxima is in motion or stationary.

Took the car in for a free check and was told to replace the control arms because the ball joint is busted. Does this make sense? Is there anything that can be done to stop that noise without replacing the control arms?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Check your rotor dust shield.

Les7311

How hard is it to replace the "rear control arm bushings" (only) on a 05 max? unsuccessful in findings a UTube vid. Completed the Front end suspensions (Struts, control arm, sway bar, tie rods) with home tools.....

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Did you look in the FSM, see my signature. Most of the time it'll have enough information for a rough idea.

@djfrestyl I checked the dust shield but it didn't appear to be the problem. Made a quick vid of the noise, ignore that loud chirp at the end, stupid belt tension I'm ignoring. The noise is louder when turing the wheel to the left versus the right. I'm guess it's the strut mounts.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I'm assuming you're talking about the lower arm that holds the spring to the car - yes?

If so, replace the entire part. It's cheap - about $40 or so, and you won't have to mess with pressing bushings in/out.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Before we go further, need to know if anything has been changed, uninstalled, reinstalled, etc with regards to your strut.

If so, it sounds like the upper spring perch not correctly aligned. ("OUT" is not facing out) - this would have occurred only if anything has been recently changed.

If nothing has been changed, the perch should be aligned properly, then I'll bet its your strut bearing.

If you can, take a video during daytime, with the wheel off, but aimed inside and towards the underside of the strut tower, while you turn the wheel.

Les7311

Thank you, and great advise - - no need stressing myself if the job can be simplified.

Love this thread.......

DjHackStyle

i guess you did not see my video posted earlier in this thread, check it out for reference aswell