Originally I had planned to have the mechanic do this job as I remember the pain it was to do on my '97 Probe GTS having to remove the upper intake. However, since it ended up costing me more than I had originally planned to get all the parts needed for the swaybar, rear main seal, oil pans and valve covers imported I will have to do it myself to save some money. I am very mechanically inclined, just not used to this engine. After reading many posts I just have a couple questions to verify what I'm thinking.

The car is a 2000 Infiniti I30:

1. This year does not use the drive by wire system right as I see cables?

2. Would it be pretty much the same procedure as the 4th gen as outlined in this how to? http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html

3. Does the upper intake plenum need to come completely off?

4. Do the coolant lines have to come off if no to the above and if removed do I have to drain the coolant first?

5. Any tips?

 

See responses in bold.

 

A few more concerns...

1. I was doing a visual inspection of everything to familiarize myself with the locations. Come to find out the two brackets on the back that everyone complains about isn't even bolted on. I guess whoever worked on it got lazy when re-installing. I take it I should put these back?

2. how do I remove the egr tube? It seems to be in a different location than on the 4th gen.

3. Do I take off the intake plenum and throttle body together or only the intake plenum.

 

After you have taken the UIM off, cover the openings in the lower intake manifold so screws, dirt and junk don't fall in there.

 

its seems like a very daunting task looking a it all put together but in reality there is nothing that you cant do it just takes looking at the various components and figuring out what you must do to remove it or get it out of the way. If its your first time doing something this major and you need your car as your DD then wait till the weekend, get an early start and give yourself a full day. GL and the next time you do it you will probably cut your removal/reinstall time in half

 

Yea I'm waiting for the weekend to do it. The first time I did it on my Probe it was a headache but when I had to do it all again right after to replace the leaking intake gasket I had no problems. I will make sure I label those vacuum lines cuz I know what a pain those can be when installed in the wrong places.

 

The first time is a headache. My first time it took me 2 hours to get it off, but I was careful and took my time to ensure I kept track and didn't lose anything. In my follies I had to to remove and reinstall about 4 times and each time I got much faster.

As Dennis pointed out, cover those open holes with masking tape or a lint free rag/towel.

Why do you need to remove your EGR tube? Do you suspect it is clogged? It can be tough to spot now, but once you get the intake manifold off and throttle body off you'll spot it easy. It is kind of a b1tch to replace so unless you really think you need to replace it I would just leave it alone. I replaced mine and it took an hour to get it off and get the new one in. I have large hands though so it always makes this kind of work difficult.

Are you sure those bolts are missing in the back? It is tough to reach back there and feel them for the first time if you aren't exactly sure where they are. One of them I had to use a socket and extension just to find it. Yes, you should make sure those are in place after you put everything back together. One suggestion, when you reinstall the intake manifold, line up those brackets and hand-tighten those bolts in the back FIRST. Then tighten down all the manifold front bolts/nuts. Finally, come back to the rear bolts to fully tighten them. Be sure you follow the proper tightening pattern and torque on the front bolts/nuts to not warp or crack the intake manifold.

As another suggested, plan for a day for this job, maybe two, for the first time.

 

1. Yes the bolts are missing. The bracket on the driver side is loose at the bottom where it bolts to the block I'm assuming and its just dangling from side to side. Not the first loose bracket I have found since dealing with this car. I pushed my hands back there to verify that it was those and both had missing bolts where it should bolt to the intake plenum.

2.Doesn't the EGR tub connect to the intake plenum? Don't I have to unbolt it from the intake plenum in order to get the plenum out?

 

Good thing you have small enough hands for that, it will make the job easier overall.

No...the EGR tube just slips into the intake manifold.

 

Doesn't #5 bolt onto the intake plenum? Isn't that the EGR Tube?

 

Yes! Thank you for refreshing my memory.

Those bolts on the underside are easy enough to get to. This reminds me, you might want to replace the gasket, #6 in the picture, while you are at it.

Now that my memory is somewhat refreshed, the EGR tube is fairly accessible with the intake manifold off and the intake removed. I think I had to remove the EGR valve to gain access to one of the bolts on the EGR tube in the block.

 

One more consideration...did you get new gaskets for the spark plug holes in the valve cover? For the 2k and 2k1 they are a separate from the valve cover.

 

Yes I did. I got a set that came with it. I'm about to start now so wish me luck...lol

*EDIT* Got the plenum off in about an hour and that is because I was doing some labeling and picture taking. Pulled the covers and was not happy at what I saw. Seems the previous owner was not changing engine oil regularly an probably using cheap oil. There is gunk in there, so I will have to run a couple engine flushes over the next month or two. I will try to see how I can import some seafoam and use that also. I don't expect it to come back brand new but anything is better than how it is right now and it could be the source of my engine noise b/w 1500-2000. I got the valve covers cleaned up and back on with a skim of permatex ultra grey and replaced the spark plugs with NGK platinums. The previous owner had regular NGK plugs in it. I'm taking a break before I tackle putting on back the intake.

 

Sounds like not having the bolts on in the back helped saved you some time. Liquid gasket is really only needed in the corner where the gasket has a U shaped fitting. Anything overkill on this may create leaks so be careful.

I would just use seafoam to do the flushes, just follow the instructions on the can.

 

Not necessarily neglect on the previous owner's part. That build up eventually occurs with the VQs no matter how frequently you change oil and how great the oil is. There are a few threads on Oil Catch Cans that help to address this issue.

Did you spend time cleaning out the plenum, manifold, elbow, and t-body? How much restriction was in your EGR tube?

 

The throttle body was clean but the plenum was a mess. Didn't do much cleaning since I'm fighting a flu right now, but after I do the flushes and such I will take it back down and clean 'em up. I wanna get the seafoam but getting it here will be a bit challenging due to the fact that its a chemical. I can't use my regular way of importing so I would have to ask someone that's coming by road to bring it for me.

 

I should have told you this sooner. If you still har it apart you may consider bringing the intake plenum to a shop for cleaning. Any decent shop can do it for you with their parts cleaner for a nominal fee.

I did this with my intake plenum, lower intake plenum, and and valve covers. The shop only charged me $10 and parts came back spotless, except for stains.

 

Sadly nowhere here offers that so I'm stuck with what I can do