originalhandy

iTrader: (2)

So tonight the car decided it didn't want to start. I checked all the fuses and they are good, it doesnt even try to turn over. I lifted the hood and there is no clicking noise. What am I looking at, starter motor ?

T_Behr904

Check your battery and make sure it's still good.

originalhandy

iTrader: (2)

Battery seems to be OK, all the electronics come on no problem and they dont turn off when I try to start the car. I did try jump it, surely it would have started that one time for the jump ?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Bang on the starter solenoid and try again.

T_Behr904

It's possible the starter could have gone out. when my starter quit, it didn't make any clicking noises. If you are sure it's not the battery, then remove the starter and have it tested.

originalhandy

iTrader: (2)

I banged on it with no joy.

Im gonna try track down a testlight and test it tonight.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

When you get the test light, check the skinny wire that goes to the starter. When you turn the key to start the car, this wire should have 12 volts. If it does, the starter solenoid is bad.

If there is no 12 volts on the wire, other possibilities are a bad ignition switch or the 40 amp fuse labeled "FL40A IGN SW" that is under the hood.

If you have an auto trans, it could be 15 amp fuse # 20 (dash board fuses) or the Park/Neutral switch on the shift lever. Put the lever in neutral and see if it starts.

If you have a manual trans, it could be 10 anp fuse #21 (dash board fuses) or the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

That's what I call answers lol

T_Behr904

I tried that too and it didn't work. I replaced the starter on my car.

originalhandy

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Dennis, ill try the other things tonight. If not ill order a starter.
I appreciate the advice

cabernet

I had the same symptoms. It was the starter. If it's the original starter it's time to replace it. Do it yourself for under $100. Lots of threads in the last month on how to replace it.

originalhandy

iTrader: (2)

Yeh it looks simple enough so I will do it Monday when it arrives.

originalhandy

iTrader: (2)

Are there any good guides to removing the air intake to get to the starter and anything else I need to do for removal ? Some of the guides I have read havent been the clearest.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I am not aware of any guide for this but it's not that complex. You should be able to figure it out as you work on it.

originalhandy

iTrader: (2)

Ill try!

Wish me luck, im gonna try do it tonight. If you hear on the news of an Irish guy in New Mexico going postal tonight you will know its me

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Dayum Dennis well done sir, you're so helpful. I missed this thread completely.

And it's possible that it's a bad ground even if you have 12V at the trigger.
It's also possible that there is a bad battery cable to the Starter solonoid or fuse blown in this circuit.

Just a couple other things to check/consider before you condemn a starter. But to be fair, 95% of the time if you ahve trigger power and it doesn't do anything, it's the starter that's the problem.



Bang on THE STARTER MOTOR, NOT the solonoid The solonoid will shatter if you bang on it

originalhandy

iTrader: (2)

I got everything apart and put the starter in and it all works great!

I really appreciated everybody's advice. It was my first actual job I have done on a car and I got it knocked out fairly quickly. Ill be sticking around to get more info from yous,

Thanks again

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Congrats dude, feels good eh!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Well, thank you. I get a lot of info from others such as your self and so I try to give back to the forum.

After reading so many posts, I have this theory in regards to bad grounds. It seems that those of you that live in the corrosion creating snow belt seem to have a lot of problems with grounding, while those of us in the sun belt are much less likely to have grounding problems.

Just throwing it out.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

^That is almost a certainty

01maxium

I have the same issue, but when I turn the key to the acc position the radio or clock does not turn on. I have power to interior and exterior lights, also checked all fuses under dash and they are all good. The car will not crank and I am starting to think it is the starter after reading this thread but I don't think that would affect the radio? Also I did a light test to the ignition wire and the fat green wire is +12V but the test light did not light up. Any ideas, could it be the starter?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Did you check all the fuses under the hood also?

Soudns like it could be a bad ignition switch if your fuses are good, and you arent getting power to the trigger wire.

But wait, how do you have 12V+, but the test light isn't lighting up? I don't understand this, unless you tested it with a multimeter AND a test light?

01maxium

I meant to say the green wire is constant for those who did not know that, but I'm sure most people do. I would assume it is a bad ignition switch cause all fuses are good. Does anyone know how to fix that or how much it would cost to fix?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

You didn't answer if you checked the fuses under the hood as well as in the cab?

If you don't have power to your ignition switch then it's obviously not the ignition switch that's the problem....

01maxium

I did check the fuse in the cab and under the hood, all looked good to me but I will double check on that again and look closely, I just glanced at it because I was running late for work and my friend was giving a lift. I will keep up updated.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Visual check is not sufficient.

I've been through this with 2 guys over on driver and one guy here this week. 2 of the 3 had blown fuses and they were "SURE" that all the fuses were good. Ill post how to check them for you in a bit.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

All you really need to quickly check fuses, without even pulling them out, under $6 at any local parts store:



12 VDC Incandecent test light.Hook the clamp to a good ground, and probe one side of the fuse with the key in the "ON" position. You should have power, now check the opposite side, you should have power there too. If you have power on ONLY ONE SIDE of any fuse, that fuse is blown.

With the above tool though you can easily check all fuses in under 5 minutes.

01maxium

Nice, thanks for that info, I would have never knew how to do that. I will test it out when I get of work in 30 minutes and let you know it that was the problem.

01maxium

Thanks for the help Turner, it ended up being the fuse. Just replaced and my car is drive able again

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

That's 3/4 now

Gladtohear it mang.\\

Now you need to find out why that fuse was blown. To do this you need to know what circuit it is, then find out what's ont hat circuit and inspect those components. Otherwise you'll just blow the fuse again later on down the road probably.