morris369

iTrader: (1)

I replaced my lower motor mounts and when putting the cross member back in, one of the front bolt holes in the rad support stripped. It isn't rotted at all. I'm not planning on taking it down anytime soon for anything so I'm thinking of just welding the crossmember to the rad support. What are your thoughts on this. I've recently replaced the clutch and if I have to replace the tranny it's gonna get a new motor too which will mean It's off the road for a little while anyway so I would replace the rad support at that time while it's down. Any other downsides to welding it other than permanantly affixing the cross member? I'm looking to do this tonight so time is crucial.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

I dont see any other downside other than the one you mentioned but that seems pretty important to me, and what if your rad springs a leak after 6 months? I would try to rethread it or go to the pull a part and get a cheap OEM one. Every time I have done something like that it has come back to bite me. You could try to rethread it first but sometimes it just makes the hole bigger and bigger. Locate a used one and then try to rethread

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

To add to the above ^ - they sell these kits called HeliCoil at the parts store so you can rethread it and it will be almost as good as new. If the hole is too messed up, you can drill it out a bit and rethread it to the next bolt size up. Not any more work than a weld job.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Drill and tap the hole or use a helicoil as mentioned above. It will take you the same amount of time as welding it and be better off in the long run.

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

Or drill straight through it and use a long bolt and a nut?

TDMIIG

Another problem with welding the crossmember to the radiator support is vibration. I'd assume the rubber dampens some of the engine vibration. May not be an issue for you but something to keep in mind if you're sensitive to NVH. Additionally, if you weld the front of the crossmember and not the rear, the little bit of play in the crossmember rear mounting could eventually weaken and break the welds.

morris369

iTrader: (1)

Replacing the radiator isn't a problem if it springs a leak, that comes out the top, and it's already new (a year old). I've thought about getting a used one, but they can be had for less than $100 new online. I just don't have the time to change the support right now or in the near future. I'm thinking only of doing this for the safetly of my kids when they are with me.

I've had really bad luck with helicoils in the past so I try to stay away from them. I don't trust them for structural applications. Otherwise that is a good idea.


I wish I could do a long bolt and nut through the top, but I don't think I can, I believe the radiator is in the way. did think about cutting a hole in the front of support and welding a nut to the inside of the support, but I don't know if I want to risk creating a weak spot or potential to rust. I've been driving it for the last couple of weeks with only one bolt holding the front of the cross member on (out of pure necessity) and have had good luck, but I don't want to push it. I would leave the one remaining bolt in also. can't hurt to have it there as a fail safe.

240sxguy

iTrader: (1)

If you don't trust helicoil then a time-sert is the way to go. How in the world did you manage to strip that out and how bad is it? A thread chaser may be able to fix that. I have fixed some pretty mangled threads with one in the past.

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

Man, I don't know what your bad experiences have been with them, but I have used them on marine applications - on headbolt holes of engines the size of our cars and never had a problem with them...

morris369

iTrader: (1)

To be honest, I'm not sure if it's the thread in the support or the thread on the bolt. I haven't take it out yet (nor has it fallen out). I'm gonna try to take it out tonight to see exactly what the deal is. It tightened up then just spun. Maybe it was just the top couple of threads on the bolt and the support is fine. If that's the case I'll washer it till I can get an oem bolt. That would be great if that was the case.

morris369

iTrader: (1)

I've used them on head bolts before without a problem, but any structural parts that see any type of twisting, I don't trust them. I've had them fail on me in lawnmower frames, with that little bit of power, just the twisting force is not freindly to them.

I don't think I've ever heard of timeserts. What are they?

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

If that's your concern, apply a generous amount of extra strength loc-tite on the bolt threads when you bolt it back up and with that, I don't think you'll have absolutely anything to worry about.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Retap out larger size get replacement bolts and hardened washers

morris369

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your input guys. I'm gonna try to get the bolt out tonight and see what exactly is the issue and I'll go from there. I'll update this when I know more.

morris369

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I can possible save both. I got the bolt out and it doesn't look too bad. Here's the bolt.



The threads in the support are a little better. I'm thinking I can clean up both and be ok, if not I can at least drill it, tap it and put a bigger bolt in it. I'm gonna go pick up a tap and die set this weekend and try it. Mine mysteriously disappeared.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

errrr that looks bad. I meant simply if something had to be done where you needed to take it off. LOL yea wow the radiator was probably a bad example haha

fishtale6spd

iTrader: (13)

Just get a new bolt rad Support threads are prolly fine

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Try cleaning the threads for the bolt hole with a tap first. After doing that, hand thread in a new bolt and see if it works. I've been lucky enough to save the thread from this type of stripping just by running a tap in the current hole.

240sxguy

iTrader: (1)

That bolt is junk.

For future info, here is the timesert stuff ; http://www.timesert.com/html/install.html#A

Use a thread chaser instead of a tap if possible, it will keep you from removing any actual material.

morris369

iTrader: (1)

i'm heading to the pick a-part tomorow to see if i can get another bolt. Thanks for the info on the time-sert

DjHackStyle

same problem happened to me,

"did think about cutting a hole in the front of support and welding a nut to the inside of the support, but I don't know if I want to risk creating a weak spot or potential to rust."

thats what i did, i cut a square size hold into the cross member with a dremel tool, and reused the nut inside, u can even get a bolt and matching nut and reweld the new nut back there.

morris369

iTrader: (1)

At this point I don't think I'm gonna have to that. I think the original threads are good enough to clean up and reuse with a new bolt. Good to know someone out there has the same thoughts as me though, how's that working out for you, just curious.

morris369

iTrader: (1)

Good news. I was able to score a couple extra cross member bolts at the junk yard and instead of running a tap throught the support I just slowly worked a bolt in and out of it with pb blaster. Once I got it completely in I pulled it out to check the thread condition and it looked great. tightened it back up and It's all good now. Thanks everyone for your help. I appreciate it.