Intake vacuum hose delete/re-route?
#1
Intake vacuum hose delete/re-route?
Tonite I bought an intake coupler, to replace the accordion style one that attatches the the tb to the rest of the intake. It was torn on the bottom pretty good.
That intake set-up I had was k&n 3" cone filter, custom extedened maf adapter, maf, hiemholtz(or however you spell that), stock coupler, tb. The new coupler is too short for the hiemholtz to fit, so I removed it and everything set up fine. The only real reason I was still using it was to connect the vacuum hose from the front valve cover, can this be deleted or re-routed?
I started it briefly and it ran fine, and I didn't see anything coming out of it, I think it's for engine vapor? My question is can I drive it just disconnected or plugged or what?
That intake set-up I had was k&n 3" cone filter, custom extedened maf adapter, maf, hiemholtz(or however you spell that), stock coupler, tb. The new coupler is too short for the hiemholtz to fit, so I removed it and everything set up fine. The only real reason I was still using it was to connect the vacuum hose from the front valve cover, can this be deleted or re-routed?
I started it briefly and it ran fine, and I didn't see anything coming out of it, I think it's for engine vapor? My question is can I drive it just disconnected or plugged or what?
#2
Nah you need it connected.
You can do a few things, either buy something cheap like this:
This part is a -Spectre- "PowerAdder"
1 of - 8707 - Air Intake Vacuum/Sensor Adapter 3"
Or get a couple brass fittings, drill and thread them in. You'll want a "barb" fitting to connect onto.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/38...b_fitting.html
^Not the specific one you need, just an example of the fitting I"m talking about.
Not the prettiest thing to do, but it'll work.
There are more options. I'd opt for getting an aluminum tube welded on (if the pipe you have is aluminum)
Or epoxy some plastic tube on (if it's plastic)
etc, etc, etc.
You can do a few things, either buy something cheap like this:
This part is a -Spectre- "PowerAdder"
1 of - 8707 - Air Intake Vacuum/Sensor Adapter 3"
Or get a couple brass fittings, drill and thread them in. You'll want a "barb" fitting to connect onto.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/38...b_fitting.html
^Not the specific one you need, just an example of the fitting I"m talking about.
Not the prettiest thing to do, but it'll work.
There are more options. I'd opt for getting an aluminum tube welded on (if the pipe you have is aluminum)
Or epoxy some plastic tube on (if it's plastic)
etc, etc, etc.
#3
I'm just looking for a cheap quick option, I saw the "power adder" haha at the local rice wholesaler, performance improvements.
The pipe I have is plastic, so some of those brass fittings, or maybe an abs fitting with glue could work. All of which could be had at the homo depot haha
I plan on getting a mid-pipe from knight this summer an doing the "ice box", I'm just on a budget right now and gotta get by for a bit.
So driving it with that vacuum unhooked to the store to get parts is a no go?
The pipe I have is plastic, so some of those brass fittings, or maybe an abs fitting with glue could work. All of which could be had at the homo depot haha
I plan on getting a mid-pipe from knight this summer an doing the "ice box", I'm just on a budget right now and gotta get by for a bit.
So driving it with that vacuum unhooked to the store to get parts is a no go?
#4
You will be please with the mid pipe from knight_yyz once you get it ... but at the very least you should put some kind of filter on that intake tub (I have seen the mini filter used by some) other wise you are going to be sucking in all kinds of crap every time you start up the engine.
#5
So today I tried this set-up: removed the resonator attached to the valve cover breather hose, replaced with 3" ID aluminum pipe.
Throttle body, coupler, 6" long 3" wide aluminum pipe, coupler, maf housing, adapter, filter.
I don't have the nipple on the aluminum pipe yet for the valve cover breather hose to attach to, so I tried the breather filter. Not good results.
Got some codes... A cylinder 1 misfire, p0300 multiple misfire, and p037 for heated o2 bank 1 sensor 2. I've cleared the codes a few times now, and replaced the resonator to so I could hook up the breather hose again.
Only the p37 is returning, i checked the fuse panel inside the car for the o2 sensor and it was fine, but I'm going to take a good look at wiring tomorrow anyway.
Throttle body, coupler, 6" long 3" wide aluminum pipe, coupler, maf housing, adapter, filter.
I don't have the nipple on the aluminum pipe yet for the valve cover breather hose to attach to, so I tried the breather filter. Not good results.
Got some codes... A cylinder 1 misfire, p0300 multiple misfire, and p037 for heated o2 bank 1 sensor 2. I've cleared the codes a few times now, and replaced the resonator to so I could hook up the breather hose again.
Only the p37 is returning, i checked the fuse panel inside the car for the o2 sensor and it was fine, but I'm going to take a good look at wiring tomorrow anyway.
#6
So today I tried this set-up: removed the resonator attached to the valve cover breather hose, replaced with 3" ID aluminum pipe.
Throttle body, coupler, 6" long 3" wide aluminum pipe, coupler, maf housing, adapter, filter.
I don't have the nipple on the aluminum pipe yet for the valve cover breather hose to attach to, so I tried the breather filter. Not good results.
Got some codes... A cylinder 1 misfire, p0300 multiple misfire, and p037 for heated o2 bank 1 sensor 2. I've cleared the codes a few times now, and replaced the resonator to so I could hook up the breather hose again.
Only the p37 is returning, i checked the fuse panel inside the car for the o2 sensor and it was fine, but I'm going to take a good look at wiring tomorrow anyway.
Throttle body, coupler, 6" long 3" wide aluminum pipe, coupler, maf housing, adapter, filter.
I don't have the nipple on the aluminum pipe yet for the valve cover breather hose to attach to, so I tried the breather filter. Not good results.
Got some codes... A cylinder 1 misfire, p0300 multiple misfire, and p037 for heated o2 bank 1 sensor 2. I've cleared the codes a few times now, and replaced the resonator to so I could hook up the breather hose again.
Only the p37 is returning, i checked the fuse panel inside the car for the o2 sensor and it was fine, but I'm going to take a good look at wiring tomorrow anyway.
IMO, still the Best way to set it up is to use connect it as it was from the factory though.
#9
Ok, I've checked every related fuse under the hood and in the cabin panel and nothing is blown. That should mean this isn't being caused by a short to power or wiring connector issue, correct?
I've never had this code until I played around with this intake, but it possible that somehow I puked the o2 sensor doing this and need a new one now? Maybe the heater element just went bad coincidentally.
I'm looking over wiring, and am about to crawl under the car and have a look at the secondary.
I've never had this code until I played around with this intake, but it possible that somehow I puked the o2 sensor doing this and need a new one now? Maybe the heater element just went bad coincidentally.
I'm looking over wiring, and am about to crawl under the car and have a look at the secondary.
Last edited by Brl24; 04-23-2013 at 10:45 AM.
#10
All of the o2 wiring looks good, no melted insulation or ruff looking connections. Also they are attatched to extensions for my gutted pre's if that matters.
Tuner, what made you say you need to have that vaccum line connected, not arguing, just want to understand why?
Tuner, what made you say you need to have that vaccum line connected, not arguing, just want to understand why?
#11
If you're going to DC that line, you should also drill the PVC out on the rear and also put a breather on it.
If you only do one bank, the car will run lean at idle. Both, and it will be fine. But, as I stated earlier, none of this is of horrible concern, many of us have been running like this for thousands of miles and many years.
If you only do one bank, the car will run lean at idle. Both, and it will be fine. But, as I stated earlier, none of this is of horrible concern, many of us have been running like this for thousands of miles and many years.
#12
Ok, understood.
Right now I have the resonator back on and the vaccum line connected to rule that out as the cause of this code, which has not changed anything. I plan on installing a fitting on the mid pipe so I can have the hose connected anyway.
Now I'm just trying to figure out why I have this p0037.
Was it caused by something I did with the intake?
Or did it just randomly go around the same time?
Is it still possible to have a short/wiring issue somewhere without blowing any fuses?
Right now I have the resonator back on and the vaccum line connected to rule that out as the cause of this code, which has not changed anything. I plan on installing a fitting on the mid pipe so I can have the hose connected anyway.
Now I'm just trying to figure out why I have this p0037.
Was it caused by something I did with the intake?
Or did it just randomly go around the same time?
Is it still possible to have a short/wiring issue somewhere without blowing any fuses?
#13
If you're going to DC that line, you should also drill the PVC out on the rear and also put a breather on it.
If you only do one bank, the car will run lean at idle. Both, and it will be fine. But, as I stated earlier, none of this is of horrible concern, many of us have been running like this for thousands of miles and many years.
If you only do one bank, the car will run lean at idle. Both, and it will be fine. But, as I stated earlier, none of this is of horrible concern, many of us have been running like this for thousands of miles and many years.
You shouldn't just leave it loose in the bay, you need to do as Nmex said above, or install a catch can and reconnect it, or leave it connected. You shouldn't just plain leave it disconnected or it won't vent crankcase pressure 90% of the time like it's supposed to
#14
This. That is your Crankcase ventilation line. it's common to modify these systems so they don't vent oil and vapour back into the intake.
You shouldn't just leave it loose in the bay, you need to do as Nmex said above, or install a catch can and reconnect it, or leave it connected. You shouldn't just plain leave it disconnected or it won't vent crankcase pressure 90% of the time like it's supposed to
You shouldn't just leave it loose in the bay, you need to do as Nmex said above, or install a catch can and reconnect it, or leave it connected. You shouldn't just plain leave it disconnected or it won't vent crankcase pressure 90% of the time like it's supposed to
My main concern is that damn code. I'm electrically illiterate, so my question is, if I'm not blowing a fuse, is it still possible that the sensor wire is grounding somewhere or a short to power exists?
#16
As far as the catch can ideas. The FX guys do not mess around, I found a few threads back when I researching the concept and they give a lot of info.
http://www.infinitiscene.com/forum/t...468#post158468
In the end, I decided to just leave it was is from the factory.
http://www.infinitiscene.com/forum/t...468#post158468
In the end, I decided to just leave it was is from the factory.
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