Even still... The 3000 miles plus hotels and food and whatnot. It's same cost to get them put in without the traveling. Just not viable right now even though the headers are priced right.

 

Also, 15mm hubcentric spacers for sale good deal too.

 

Well it's.... Hrmm... See below.....

^ This.



How does one adjust the height on the coilovers then?

Can you get a picture of the strut for me plz?

If they didn't break on the white nightmare, I guarantee they won't break on your car.

 

dont get me wrong im pretty **** about doing things right just that @ 385k on the clock she may not recover from the work

 

You adjust them using the 2 collars but there is no 3rd collar at the bottom. They do no spin into the strut. There is no preload

Mine are also a lot lower, there are like 2-3 threads showing form the bottom to the collar.

 

hellaflush lowering kit. Bout time they came out with a affordable kit for it

 

You're too low for that style of coilover. The spring must always be constrained. If you have a point where there is no load on the spring, the spring will move axially and cause the binding you're hearing. It would be nice to see a good photo of your actual coilover. I bet that's your problem.

 

Why would they design the coil to go that low but then have issues when you do? The load on the spring in the front is very minimal I can tell you that. I figured that's where the noise came from. I think i'm going to try and put in the rubber mount top to sit between the spring and the top metal perch. It's not part of the kit but was a recommended idea.

Still makes no sense why they would allow someone to adjust that low only if it was going to give problems. I can't get pics of mine until maybe tomorrow.

Also, when the car is down on the ground there is plenty of tension on the spring, it's just when it's in the air.

 

On the tein ss, preload is height dependant. However preload is not always needed but it is a good idea to have some.

On my tein ss, I have no preload and have about 2-3mm from the bottom of the shock left. When the car is back on the ground, the spring compresses.

 

Still though....

yuuuuup.


I still have a hard time imagining how to adjust this compared to mine

 

And I have no issues with my set-up or any noises. However I am using rubber spring isolaters on the top coil and bottom coil of the spring. Metal against metal always causes issues.

 

Hm. Is that on your 5th or 4th? Also, are your SSs full length adjustable or only height adjustable?

 

Your idea to use the ccfl ballasts worked for hte EL.

I just haven't had time to touch them aside from that test. I need to finish some other stuff before starting anything new!!!

 

I have tein ss on my 4th gen and 5th gen

 

This is the only thing I don't have. I should prolly craft some. Any thoughts on where to start just getting some rubber that will sit in place well? If I back off the spring completely I can get these installed without even taking the coilover off the car.

 

The spring does not always have to be constrained. You can run a coilover without having any pre-load on it. You can PRELOAD the springs by compressing them with the perch this will in effect give you stiffer springs (they get stiffer as they get more compressed) initially at the cost of suspension travel.

 

Yup, that's why I believe this noise isn't an indication of improper install or loose parts. I believe it is just that the load on the spring when the car is in the air isn't there. This is giving the spring the ability to create that noise. Some rubber isolators on the top and bottom should be what I need to remove the noise.

 

I used the OEM spring isolators. They are not the best fit but with some heat I was able to make them work.

And yes you can install them without taking off your coilovers.

BTW what is your alignment like now since you have been raising and lowering the car?

 

All tein ss on the Maxima are identical. And they are able to adjust the height. So I am confused what you meant exactly.

The only thing is that the tein ss do not have a fully threaded shock body.

You only loosen one collar (lower one) on the shock body and spin the other collar to either raise or lower the car. Once you are done, you spin the lower collar and use it as a locking collar.

Very simple and easy to adjust

 

Well for you to be code free with a full swap, you would need the 6MT ecu for sure. If not, you will get CAN codes. Everything else is just emissions related. (O2 sensors, EVAP, etc.)

For the hybrid swap, there's a few options. But first things first, FIND A '95 ECU. After this, You can splice the IACV from the a33a/PFTB (if that's what you're gonna use) to your 4th gen harness. If you're going to hack the e-TB, you will need an IACV adapter plate from stephen max. Use an IM from an 04 and route the egr guide tube to the port on that IM. Some people report that with the '95 ECU, they don't get an egr code as long as the selinoid is connected.


Honestly, the hybrid swap will be alot cheaper to finish than the full swap. I haven't even finished the part hunt for my swap 100% yet and I'm way over what I would have spent by doing the hybrid.

 

Hey guys, spoonfeeding time.

What do I need for a full swap in my 4th gen?

I REALLY don't want to do timing on the 3.5 motor.

So we have...

Gas Pedal
MT ECU
Engine Wiring Harness

Apparently a dash harness for my NATs to work?

 

I much I'm looking for a set

 

Come on man .... even I know I know the answer to this lol ... now you go and read and read
l

 

This is very true. In some forms of motorsports, the spring is set pretty loose (when the car is off the ground) on purpose to help prevent the inside wheel from lifting mid corner.

 

Nikka... seriously? As much **** as I've bought from yo punk azz and you don't know! lol

 

you mean the rubber that actually fits around the spring? I was thinking about just some rubber to put between the spring and the perch top/bottom. did you just push it onto the spring? I don't really have any heat to use.

My alignment was done about 2 weeks ago. I've only adjusted the height +-1/4" then. Drives straight and feels good.

 

*How much

 

I haven't given a single fck about full swaps up until last night when I sat down next to the motor and I went *sigh*... fck this.

I'm just going off of the top of my head on what's different in the motors and what the engine/ecu needs.

So.

ECU
Engine Harness
Dash Harness
Gas Pedal

If I can make the dash harness connect to my NATS I don't need a column+key/wheel/bag then.

So what's next?

/spoonfeedthenoob.org

Main thing is, if the motor is bad, I can just chunk it outta the car and throw another one in, no big deal.

But w/ the timing swap.... *lesigh* ughhhhh

 

6k, 10k seems to be the magic number here on the org... someone telling you that a part has 6k on it is like that girl u meet that tells you she only slept with 2 guys lol you'll never really know although I'm sure is a stand up guy....

 

well i got them from Tuner. I doubt he tried to screw me since he is coming down to visit still.

 

Those were almost mine.,

 

Houston-20120515-00732.jpg?t=1337099418

Name a price for a pedal that covers shipping and handling and my time typing this out and I'll send one out.

 

Yo... at this point I'm about to say **** the swap and **** the car. The guy I ordered the engine harness from only sent me half the ****. There are no grounds, only 3 injector pigtails, 3 coilpack pigtails etc...

When you guys sell engine harnesses doesn't it come with all the **** you need to actually control the engine?

 

They would come as if they did from the factory.

Complete and no cuts.

IIRC you'd only get 3 injectors and coils.

The other 3 are on a sub harness.

 

well this is awkward

 

damn that fckin sucks a$$. when I bought my 3.5 motor it was said to be complete but when they shipped it, I later found out it was missing some parts so it wasnt complete I know the feeling.

send that shii back and get your money back and buy a legit complete one. I learned when asking for anything complete, go by a list like name off everything thats suppose to come with it so there no surprises. some people definition of complete varies.

 

there are no cuts in it. But the rest of it is connected with those green plugs, he left out all of that and only sent the partial harness. Ask your harness guy if the battery power and ground wires are supposed to come with the engine harness.

 

I can use those sub harness from the altimaone that I have here. And actually, I should be able to use it from my dek...

I'm going to investigate a little more before I start complaining.

 

This is what I got.



This is more of what I was expecting.



This is from the altima harness I pulled from my 3.5. Notice how it has the battery power wire and everything with it. I assumed the maxima one would come like this too. Am I mistaken?

 

Yea man. It sucks. I don't mind the missing sub harnesses.