5th gen Off Topic Thread (Official Ghustle thread v1)
06-15-2012 | 07:10 AM
#9401
6th gen ECU + Osiris. Done.
I can't find a 5.5 gen maxima engine harness and I'm tired of waiting, I've had a complete 06 harness for ages so now I'm on that 'ish.
The only reason why Surrat dropped it was no cruise, but I was not gonna have cruise anyways so fck it.
I already have most of the components, just need teh $$$$ to buy Osiris Tuner suite.
Now I just need to buy engine mounts so I can put the engine in the car and learn me how to put in the Sentra Speedometer so I can haz working tachometer and we're pretty much off to da races... I'll have two cars to race @ maxus
U still a h03
I can't find a 5.5 gen maxima engine harness and I'm tired of waiting, I've had a complete 06 harness for ages so now I'm on that 'ish.
The only reason why Surrat dropped it was no cruise, but I was not gonna have cruise anyways so fck it.
I already have most of the components, just need teh $$$$ to buy Osiris Tuner suite.
Now I just need to buy engine mounts so I can put the engine in the car and learn me how to put in the Sentra Speedometer so I can haz working tachometer and we're pretty much off to da races... I'll have two cars to race @ maxus
U still a h03
what yo mean imma ho?
06-15-2012 | 07:30 AM
#9402
Nothing new but:
Little tech stuff we already knew, but nao just just confirming:
He said when he did this, his hp & tq gained all across teh baord. The took a fair dip up top (KS freaking out IMO).
And then said he was going to try again with a richer mix of 110 octane and colder plugs to gid rid of that dip up top. This can be seen in his last dyno where he put peak hp @ 6600 RPM, awesome if you ask me, I put peak at 6100, then it begins to fade.
And this again goes back to my old theory of race gas (no pun intended). Though it's been shut down many times since, but I dyno'd 210, put a JWT POP and advance the base timing 2º and added racegas put down 233. Different days, but that's more than a different day error, but with respect to that, that's why we have SAE.
So, I think I'm going to take more fuel out and see what kind of timing advance I get. My best was 33º @ 7000 RPM. I wish I could get up to 35º, or leave at 33 from 6500-7000, for safest results. I think this is totally do able and MAF tuning is in my favor for this because I tend to want to toss a little bit of fuel back in from 6500-7100, and the rest you can figure out why it's favorable.
Do you know how much they go for? Haven't checked courtesy 
Finally got one:
http://forums.maxima.org/8509801-post8409.html
This was lollable:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post8509868
Little tech stuff we already knew, but nao just just confirming:
Pretty sure that's why SR's timing went to high. He had the same MAF housing as me with 390's though.
I was at 28º at 6k+, now I'm at 31º. Once I get 33, I think I'll stop, hopefully I will be in the 13.3:1 AFR range.
Once again, proving this for my own good:
My last dyno was at -10 , -12%, so yeah, that's a lot to remove thus a lot of timing to add. On the last second to the last run, I was at -8-10%, and that was my best run. Then went to -12 -14%, which netted no gain, and once again, I am probably the 4th person on here that I know that sees no added affect when adding too much timing. But, I did see a fairly significant gain by going from 0 - -10%m both on the rollers and the HP #'s, and of course, VE (MAF flow, g/s).
I was at 28º at 6k+, now I'm at 31º. Once I get 33, I think I'll stop, hopefully I will be in the 13.3:1 AFR range.
Once again, proving this for my own good:
My last dyno was at -10 , -12%, so yeah, that's a lot to remove thus a lot of timing to add. On the last second to the last run, I was at -8-10%, and that was my best run. Then went to -12 -14%, which netted no gain, and once again, I am probably the 4th person on here that I know that sees no added affect when adding too much timing. But, I did see a fairly significant gain by going from 0 - -10%m both on the rollers and the HP #'s, and of course, VE (MAF flow, g/s).
And then said he was going to try again with a richer mix of 110 octane and colder plugs to gid rid of that dip up top. This can be seen in his last dyno where he put peak hp @ 6600 RPM, awesome if you ask me, I put peak at 6100, then it begins to fade.
And this again goes back to my old theory of race gas (no pun intended). Though it's been shut down many times since, but I dyno'd 210, put a JWT POP and advance the base timing 2º and added racegas put down 233. Different days, but that's more than a different day error, but with respect to that, that's why we have SAE.
So, I think I'm going to take more fuel out and see what kind of timing advance I get. My best was 33º @ 7000 RPM. I wish I could get up to 35º, or leave at 33 from 6500-7000, for safest results. I think this is totally do able and MAF tuning is in my favor for this because I tend to want to toss a little bit of fuel back in from 6500-7100, and the rest you can figure out why it's favorable.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Read a good article re: Dyno differences.
Car was a tuned EVO
Car was a tuned EVO
Originally Posted by Modified Magazine
Dyno Dash Round-up (SAE J1349)
Fame Mustang 292.7
Pina Dyno Dynamics 318.6
Drift-Office Dynojet 312.5
Speed Factory Dynapack 324.4
English Racing Dynojet 315.9
Fame Mustang 292.7
Pina Dyno Dynamics 318.6
Drift-Office Dynojet 312.5
Speed Factory Dynapack 324.4
English Racing Dynojet 315.9
do A32 shift forks go for these days?Finally got one:
http://forums.maxima.org/8509801-post8409.html
This was lollable:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post8509868
06-15-2012 | 07:40 AM
#9405
06-15-2012 | 07:56 AM
#9407
I strongly agree.
Only had Canadian and it was in the freezer and I was getting rceready for work so no time.
OAN, looks as if Clashez never knew there was an overseas VQ30DET.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...er-limits.html
Only had Canadian and it was in the freezer and I was getting rceready for work so no time.
OAN, looks as if Clashez never knew there was an overseas VQ30DET.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...er-limits.html
06-15-2012 | 08:18 AM
#9410
06-15-2012 | 08:32 AM
#9414
For now.... Need to pick up tires and two intakes tonight, install in the A.M. get car aligned, then install TP, then Dyno for an Hour
Nothing new but:
Little tech stuff we already knew, but nao just just confirming:
He said when he did this, his hp & tq gained all across teh baord. The took a fair dip up top (KS freaking out IMO).
And then said he was going to try again with a richer mix of 110 octane and colder plugs to gid rid of that dip up top. This can be seen in his last dyno where he put peak hp @ 6600 RPM, awesome if you ask me, I put peak at 6100, then it begins to fade.
And this again goes back to my old theory of race gas (no pun intended). Though it's been shut down many times since, but I dyno'd 210, put a JWT POP and advance the base timing 2º and added racegas put down 233. Different days, but that's more than a different day error, but with respect to that, that's why we have SAE.
So, I think I'm going to take more fuel out and see what kind of timing advance I get. My best was 33º @ 7000 RPM. I wish I could get up to 35º, or leave at 33 from 6500-7000, for safest results. I think this is totally do able and MAF tuning is in my favor for this because I tend to want to toss a little bit of fuel back in from 6500-7100, and the rest you can figure out why it's favorable.
Little tech stuff we already knew, but nao just just confirming:
He said when he did this, his hp & tq gained all across teh baord. The took a fair dip up top (KS freaking out IMO).
And then said he was going to try again with a richer mix of 110 octane and colder plugs to gid rid of that dip up top. This can be seen in his last dyno where he put peak hp @ 6600 RPM, awesome if you ask me, I put peak at 6100, then it begins to fade.
And this again goes back to my old theory of race gas (no pun intended). Though it's been shut down many times since, but I dyno'd 210, put a JWT POP and advance the base timing 2º and added racegas put down 233. Different days, but that's more than a different day error, but with respect to that, that's why we have SAE.
So, I think I'm going to take more fuel out and see what kind of timing advance I get. My best was 33º @ 7000 RPM. I wish I could get up to 35º, or leave at 33 from 6500-7000, for safest results. I think this is totally do able and MAF tuning is in my favor for this because I tend to want to toss a little bit of fuel back in from 6500-7100, and the rest you can figure out why it's favorable.
06-15-2012 | 08:39 AM
#9417
mother of god.
NO KIDDING! I'm sick & tired of hearing about poor DE-K low end performance, which isn't bad all things considered. The fact is all engines are simply an air pump, constrained by the laws of Thermodynamics & Volumetric Efficiency to a maximum available amount of power vs. displacement. All you can do is move that available power around. The trick is an engine that reduces pumping losses makes more power for a given displacement. Guess what? A DE-K gives up 500cc displacement which is equal to another cylinder's worth. Naturally it's going to have less torque! The other issue is most people who don't know any better, mod the DE-K for max horsepower. I.E. VIAS delete, big bore intake setups & etc. that only serves to decrease low end torque. My bone stock DE-K has decent enough torque to break the tires loose at will with small throttle openings & when the VIAS opens it heads for the redline fast. It will also hit the rev limiter at 1:1 gearing on the highway where HP & Torque are needed to overcome drag. I think the problem is "Balloon Foot" owners with no concept of throttle modulation. Instead of rolling into the throttle, they just go WOT and bog the engine due to low intake velocity. Created by a cable operated throttle and OEM intake that flows at higher RPM's. So they blame the motor for not having low end torque. Probably the main reason Nissan went to an electric throttle body. To properly modulate the throttle for those that can't figure it out. Because "DRIVERS" are in short supply. 
1. Size and displacement loss doesn't equal loss of torque, rather, more often loss of HP. So the fact that the 3.5 liter has 500cc more displacement has little to nothing to do with it's torque production or powerband.
2. Torque rather is most signifigantly impacted by the bore/stroke of the unit. Roughly put: Bore = HP and Stroke = Torque
A little more explaination:
An engine with a bore larger than the stroke is referred to as an “over-square” engine. Over-square engines tend to be higher rpm engines than other designs and the more over-square, the greater the rpm spread between peak torque and peak horsepower. With few exceptions, most production, high performance and race engines are over-square.
A “square engine” is one with equal or nearly equal bore and stroke dimensions. A square engine will generally produce more torque than the same cubic inch over-square design; however the rpm will be lower so the maximum horsepower produced will also generally be lower. Also in a square design the spread between peak torque and peak horsepower will be closer together than in the over-square design.
DE-K: 93 x 73.3 (3.66 x 2.886)
3.5DE: 95.5 x 81.4 (3.760 x 3.205)
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 06-15-2012 at 08:46 AM.
06-15-2012 | 08:40 AM
#9418
You guys must have not seen what I wrote about that 3.5 down here. Daily driven on boost making around 370whp. Regular track and dyno days. And now takes regular abuse on a 150 shot. Hasn't been tuned in a couple years. And when it was, it was just a basic A/F tune with a EB via maf correction.
A measure of odds and variables like anything. At the end of the day you're still boosting an engine that is primarily engineered for N/A appliaction. And everyhting is different between the two setups. I'm comfortable boosting the stock block, I'm just A LOT more comfortable boosting a built motor. Made for boost.
Either way I've noted first hand that the difference between a quick ride around the block and a week can be 1/2" without batting an eye.
I'm happy with how it sits now anyways, but suspect that once the rear is dropped I"ll want a touch more int he front to 'even' it up.
Ohhhhh:
shiit 
06-15-2012 | 08:53 AM
#9421
, hopefully its with a Wideband so i can start on a 3" intake lol... step by step............... BTW where the **** is CJ?... whats the updates???
06-15-2012 | 09:15 AM
#9426
I agree there's plenty out there running boost with no problems, plenty. There's also a bunch that blow up.
A measure of odds and variables like anything. At the end of the day you're still boosting an engine that is primarily engineered for N/A appliaction. And everyhting is different between the two setups. I'm comfortable boosting the stock block, I'm just A LOT more comfortable boosting a built motor. Made for boost.
Considering coilovers are the same as springs/struts on most cars, except for adjustability, and sometimes linear vs. progressive springs, I dont' see how the comparison makes a pinch of differnece.
Either way I've noted first hand that the difference between a quick ride around the block and a week can be 1/2" without batting an eye.
I'm happy with how it sits now anyways, but suspect that once the rear is dropped I"ll want a touch more int he front to 'even' it up.
Ohhhhh:
A measure of odds and variables like anything. At the end of the day you're still boosting an engine that is primarily engineered for N/A appliaction. And everyhting is different between the two setups. I'm comfortable boosting the stock block, I'm just A LOT more comfortable boosting a built motor. Made for boost.
Considering coilovers are the same as springs/struts on most cars, except for adjustability, and sometimes linear vs. progressive springs, I dont' see how the comparison makes a pinch of differnece.
Either way I've noted first hand that the difference between a quick ride around the block and a week can be 1/2" without batting an eye.
I'm happy with how it sits now anyways, but suspect that once the rear is dropped I"ll want a touch more int he front to 'even' it up.
Ohhhhh:
06-15-2012 | 09:19 AM
#9427
06-15-2012 | 09:20 AM
#9428
A stock block vq35 can handle low boost without any issues. However once the torque numbers begin to climb, that is when the issue arrises of how long the motor will last. The rods are the weakest point in the vq35.
A built motor even with a mild build is a good idea. However I personally did not see the point of it. Reason being is if I blow a stock vq35, I can get another one very easily and just swap it in. If I blow a vq35 that was built, well there goes money down the drain. And there have been plenty of people on my350z that have blown built vq35 motors.
A built motor sounds like a great idea if you are after power and dyno numbers. But having a street car with 400whp is plenty enough to have fun and still be plenty quick.
A built motor even with a mild build is a good idea. However I personally did not see the point of it. Reason being is if I blow a stock vq35, I can get another one very easily and just swap it in. If I blow a vq35 that was built, well there goes money down the drain. And there have been plenty of people on my350z that have blown built vq35 motors.
A built motor sounds like a great idea if you are after power and dyno numbers. But having a street car with 400whp is plenty enough to have fun and still be plenty quick.
06-15-2012 | 09:28 AM
#9431
06-15-2012 | 09:28 AM
#9432
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 410
So something i've always been curious about, (Please don't laugh) Is when people say "I was running XXlbs of boost and it blew the motor, Or people say "i don't want to boost a dd, it'll blow" etc, what do they actually mean will blow? Will the block crack? IM shatter? I would like to know what specific parts will go.
06-15-2012 | 09:29 AM
#9433
A stock block vq35 can handle low boost without any issues. However once the torque numbers begin to climb, that is when the issue arrises of how long the motor will last. The rods are the weakest point in the vq35.
A built motor even with a mild build is a good idea. However I personally did not see the point of it. Reason being is if I blow a stock vq35, I can get another one very easily and just swap it in. If I blow a vq35 that was built, well there goes money down the drain. And there have been plenty of people on my350z that have blown built vq35 motors.
A built motor sounds like a great idea if you are after power and dyno numbers. But having a street car with 400whp is plenty enough to have fun and still be plenty quick.
A built motor even with a mild build is a good idea. However I personally did not see the point of it. Reason being is if I blow a stock vq35, I can get another one very easily and just swap it in. If I blow a vq35 that was built, well there goes money down the drain. And there have been plenty of people on my350z that have blown built vq35 motors.
A built motor sounds like a great idea if you are after power and dyno numbers. But having a street car with 400whp is plenty enough to have fun and still be plenty quick.
06-15-2012 | 09:30 AM
#9434
So something i've always been curious about, (Please don't laugh) Is when people say "I was running XXlbs of boost and it blew the motor, Or people say "i don't want to boost a dd, it'll blow" etc, what do they actually mean will blow? Will the block crack? IM shatter? I would like to know what specific parts will go.
06-15-2012 | 09:35 AM
#9436
yea thats what i was telling him also... if he wanted some kind of monster build then sure do that built motor, but for the 350rwhp goal that he has i think his motor is capable of being reliable with that kind of power... my vote was just use that $2600 to boost his current motor as for 350rwhp thats fine
06-15-2012 | 09:37 AM
#9437
Because of you, I no longer want to shoot myself in the face every time I hear that. 
Blown engine = raped rod, sometimes that ***** will shoot through the block.
Some of the NA fastest do it that way. SAFC-II FTMFW!
For real, that shiit is nasty, cardboard.
Blown engine = raped rod, sometimes that ***** will shoot through the block.
Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17
might be grabbing a SAFCII in a few , hopefully its with a Wideband so i can start on a 3" intake lol... step by step............... BTW where the **** is CJ?... whats the updates???
Originally Posted by CJ
He been eatin dat stick n twig bread now he been showed the light
06-15-2012 | 09:38 AM
#9439
So something i've always been curious about, (Please don't laugh) Is when people say "I was running XXlbs of boost and it blew the motor, Or people say "i don't want to boost a dd, it'll blow" etc, what do they actually mean will blow? Will the block crack? IM shatter? I would like to know what specific parts will go.
06-15-2012 | 09:40 AM
#9440
If both engines are cared for, tuned, maintained and monitored right they will be fine. Nismomaxct has a pretty sick boosted 3/5, He would be one to ask about those. Those brakes are on a Ferrari 458 Italia spider i cleaned earlier today, I think your right on the money in the 20,000 area