Dorman (mfr of the new balancer) chart says 36ft lbs but I found an answers.com post for a maxima where the responder came up with 98 - 112 ft lbs for a Max just a few yrs older!

All I know is it took my 500+ ft lb impact gun several minutes and 3 compressor refills to get the old bolt loose and there were sparks flyin from the socket. Maybe they used blue loctite at the factory? -

Torquing that bolt is the last thing I have to finish to get it on the road again. Always one last thing to hold up progress.

Thanks Dave

 

What does the FSM say?

 

i just hit it with my impact gun and i have had no problems yet.

replaced mine about 7 weeks ago and i drive 84 miles to work round trip , 5 days/week and no problems

 

What does the FSM say? If I had one of those I wudnt be asking...LOL!!!!

I asked my neighbor to check for me. He works for a dealership and will check for me tomorrow. Meantime....I torqued by hand it to around 30 -35 b4 the crank started moving then used the impact and hit it a few times quick. Put a little blue loctite on too.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

 

Just what I needed! Thanks!

Day 2 and its still together....

 

Goes to show one better take Googles AI with a grain of salt. It said torque to 136 ft lb.
But hey' whats another 100 ft lbs right?

That said, factory may of listened to it? My neighbors 20v Dewalt impact gun (brand new Bats) failed miserably. So we put my IR 600 ft lb impact on stage pumping 150 ft lbs air through it & a few hits of CRC Knocker Loose then Freeze off (great stuff) she broke loose. Definitely more than FSM calls for or some damn fine Japanese grade loc-tite one? Maybe the 25yrs of rusty? Just all that' Huum?
Big thanks for FSM, appreciate that!
Peace

 

crank pulley bolts are pretty thick, I usually torque them as tight as a lug nut ( 100 ft lbs ) to be safe and use orange Loctite.

the engine cranking with socket and breaker bar trick has never failed me yet when it comes to getting them off...

 

Gonna go ahead and piggyback this thread, when changing the crank pulley on a 02+, anything needed besides the pulley (ie; seals, special tools)? Also the threading is reverse, correct? My pulley is starting to have a wobble from the rubber wearing out so its time for me to replace it.

 

The manual says to tighten 29 to 36 foot pounds. But then you have to tighten further another 60 to 66 degrees. Good luck! So the manufacturer is kind of right - kind of.

 

the crank pulley bolt is an M16 x 1.5 so 100 ft lbs with Loctite won't hurt it at all. I've been running the 2J racing aluminum underdrive pulley for a little over 2 years now.


you will also want to change the front crank seal while it's off..

 

I wouldn’t recommend using anything other than motor oil as instructed in the maintenance manuals! You might not ever get it off if you ever need too!

 

Getting the final 60º is tricky depending on the tools you have. After marking the angle, I cheat and use an impact.

 

I had no problem taking it off when I did my swap. Loctite orange is strong but isn't a pain to remove. plus 100 ft lbs isn't a lot. it's about as tight as a lug nut that isn't over tightened.

 

That rust will hold 1000 ft lbs if not lubed/heated. To save time, I had to jam flywheel and kick on a breaker bar before.

 

cranking the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the main pulley bolt hasn't failed me yet.

when I had my 2014 engine on the stand I jammed a 3/8 extension in the main pulley locking it against the 2014 oil pan that wasn't going to be used and used a breaker bar to break the bolt lose. to my surprise no damage was done to the oil pan.