gdal

iTrader: (2)

Like the title says ...

I had my clutch replaced today with an Exedy OEM clutch kit. Everything is working ok, but my pedal feels way too soft. I know people have mentioned this issue here, but I didn't think it was going to be that bad.

It feels like the time my slave cylinder/hose went out minus the pedal getting stuck/fluid lost.

I'm not having any issues changing gears or anything. I didn't get the Stage 1 because I don't have any mods and this is my commuter vehicle.

I replaced the flywheel with a new one and got an NTN TO bearing (instead of the chinese one included in the kit). All fluids were replaced during this replacement (Amsoil GL-4 and Amsoil brake fluid).

Should I try to bleed the system again?

TIA,
G

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

try bleeding it again, sounds like theres still air in the system. if after bleeding it again you still get the problem i would be looking for clutch line leaks, if none i would look at the slave cylinder

essential1

iTrader: (5)

Pressure plate probably has less "give" than your previous one if that was changed too.

T_Behr904

Try bleeding it again. When I replaced the rubber clutch line last year, it took me and a friend a couple hours of bleeding to get all the air bubbles out.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure why you would need to bleed it at all? Did you remove a clutch line or something?

If so, then absolutely yes, bleed it out, clutches can be tricky to get completely bled, just make darned sure that reservoir doesn't get low, it's a small one and it's simple to bleed it dry.



If you didn't remove any clutch lines, look for lines that could have been disturbed and might now be wet with fluid. This is most likely at one of the fittings for the slave cylinder.

You mean to say Cluch Cover I am thinking? Either way, he is saying it's soft, newer, less worn components won't exhibit a softer pedal unless the components replaced were seized, sticky, or otherwise damaged.

Unless of course the old stuff had a higher clamping force than the replacement part.

gdal

iTrader: (2)

Just talked to the shop that did the work. They bled the system and most likely didn't bleed it right. I'm taking it again today ... I mentioned the two bleeding screws and I'm pretty sure they only bled the upper screw.

Thanks for the advice!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I still don't understand why it needs to be bled at all.........

95VQ30

Is it a sprung clutch? That may be the cause of the softer pedal- happened for me

gdal

iTrader: (2)

You are right ... it doesn't have to be bled, but they did it because they wanted to make sure that everything was fine with the hydraulic system.

gdal

iTrader: (2)

I have a 5-speed which comes with a sprung clutch IIRC. Exedy OEM tend to be softer than the OEM units. I'm ok with that, but it seems that the hydraulic system needs to be bleed because there's absolutely no pressure when I press the clutch pedal. Fluid level is fine. Slave cylinder and hose were replaced last year and there are no leaks.

gdal

iTrader: (2)

They bled the system again and the pedal feel has improved.

Now I have another issue. I guess my driver's side axle seal got messed up and I found gear oil on my driveway and at the store parking lot. I had no clue that these needed to be replaced and the mechanic didn't mention anything about it either. Dropped my car at my preferred mechanic because I don't trust the shop that did the clutch work anymore.

I hope this is just the axle seal and not a diff bearing issue. I didn't have any leaks prior to the clutch replacement.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

WOW those guys messed up this job HARD.

1st, I bet they removed the Slave cylinder line or at least loosened it, not having a fkcuing clue what they were doing (because you don't need to touch it)

And 2nd, they obviously fkcuked up your seals or worse when they pulled/reinstalled the axels.

Go back to them. Tell them you want them to pay for it to be fixed by a reputable shop. or at least them re-do the work PROPERLY.
Threated ot call BBB if they get their backs up. If that doesn't work dunno guess sue the dumb fuaks.

gdal

iTrader: (2)

Yep ... I'm dealing with this BS tomorrow.

I just want to confirm here that only the driver's cv shaft needs to be removed for a clutch replacement.

G

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Both need to be removed.

Tyutyunnik

iTrader: (1)

Correct you have to take off both drive shafts to pull the tranny to access the clutch.

L36

iTrader: (4)

I had same issue when i replaced the clutch in my 01, then my 04. Its just that the new pressure plate has less give. If you have no problem shifting, plenty of clutch fluid and no leaks from the clutch system you should be fine.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Just cause it's been said twice for some reason I'll comment on this:

1. Pressure plates don't have give. They are a solid piece just like your flywheel's friction surface.

2. Even if somehow they DID have give (they don't), Something that has LESS 'give' would result in a FIRMER pedal, not a 'soft' feel which is what the OP is describing.

gdal

iTrader: (2)

Just got the car back ... what a day. Labor was covered, but I had to buy the axle seal. Didn't think it was a big deal, but I was wrong. Had issues finding the seal (only one was leaking). I when I found them, I found to different styles. One was mostly plastic with hard plastic located where it sits in the cavity (CarQuest brand) and another one that was half plastic/half metal (NDK). I dropped the CarQuest one first, but told the guy not to install it until I confirmed that it was the right one. He freakin' installed it anyways after I got the NDK (which are the OEM ones). So far no leaks and I hope it doesn't leak in the near future. I personally checked the shaft play and it was solid ... so the bearings are good.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Should have just got them right from Nissan.

And by them, I mean them. As soon as you remove an axel the seal is *SUPPOSED* to be replaced.

When you are pulling hte tranny though, it's just something you do without thinking.

When you're replacing an axel, it's not uncommon to skip changing the seals. As long as you're careful it's not that bad to skip it.

In your case you should have done them both if they covered labour, good on them for doing that though!

gdal

iTrader: (2)

The first place I checked was the Nissan dealership ... had to wait a day and I don't have an extra vehicle and the shop doesn't work weekends. They only covered labor on the one that was leaking. I tried to get them to change both and they refused. The NDK ones that I got are the same ones that Nissan sells ... I just got them too late. The mechanic told me that if it leaked again, he'll put in the NDK one that I got. Hopefully I'll be good to go until I replace the axles (even though they are good).

Thanks for the advice guys!
G