Max_Gator

I'm not sure that is correct. When mine went bad and I changed it, I didn't take it to the dealer for an ECU update and everything has been fine.

I'm not sure why you would need to do an ECU update if you are replacing with OEM. I mean it should be sending the same voltages and pulse info. Maybe if it is aftermarket though.

Kuhn_man

iTrader: (8)

usually what it means is the ecu learns the worn out maf where the voltage isnt the same as it would be if it was new...theres a difference when its broke and when it gets to worn out/old/dirty to work so to say, and what happens than is its working off the old tables which doesnt work with the new maf.. so the ecu needs to be recalibrated or you could drive around for a couple of hours to get your long term fuel trim back into shape

Ruining My Nissan

New MAF didn't fix it. I reset the ECU but didn't have it relearned. I also didn't drive it more than a few miles but I don't think that's going to change much.
TPS is (was already) calibrated.

Any other ideas?

Kuhn_man

iTrader: (8)

dont know if its been asked but hows your fuel pressure

Ruining My Nissan

Fuel pressure was normal.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Compression test and Cat test (exhaust back pressure test)

Ruining My Nissan

Would a clogged cat or bad compression only effect my car in that specific rpm range and only when the car is warm? The fact that it's so predictable and specific is still making me think it's sensor related.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

i would check the grounds. Actually, I would add an extra ground from the body to the engine and at the same time clean the two grounds by the engine oil fill cap.

I had a problem that took me weeks to resolve. Intermittent stuttering. Ended up being two bad grounds by the engine fill cap. That was a long experience.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

After reading this entire thread, based on previous experience with 3rd and 4th gen Maximas, I refuse to believe the problem is anything other than a bad MAF. Every single little detail is yelling out MAF. And if its not the MAF, its at least related. Bad harness, yanked wire or similar. Have you checked continuity from MAF harness to ECU harness?

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

And for the people suggesting ground issue. If it were ground, it would have starting issues not revving issues. I had a disconnected ground once after an engine swap and that was the problem. Not limiting me to 1700rpms only hard starts

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Ground issues are more complicated than that. Some are simple, some are complex. Its depends where the problem is happening. Fact is, there are ground connections all over the motor, each having a slightly different purpose, but all them related, too.

DW

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

My issue was on a 97 auto and the ground from the chassis was not plugged onto the trans. Perhaps you may be right but the symptoms he's describing are dead on with a bad MAF. To current date with the few years I've been working on Nissans, I have not seen anything have identical symptoms to a bad mass air flow sensor.

Btw, I don't recall the op talking much about calibrating the tps other than saying that the calibration wasn't the issue. OP did you properly calibrate the TPS?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

This and This.

I am stuck on these two things also.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

Boondock

Im sorry i cant help solve this problem but i have a very similar problem with a 01 S.E. Recently my regular mechanic was trying to figure out why my car wouldn't run cold (literally would try to pull out of my driveway and try to get going and the car would crawl for about 20 sec before it decided to co-operate with me) after it gets warm, it doesn't like to give me any power at all without a fight not to mention if i get frustrated and try to put the pedal down the rpms stick to 3k and looses power again.

Mechanic replaced the MAF and it actually ran worse.

Max_Gator

That could be a vacuum leak. I would closely check the hose baffle between the MAF and the Throttle Body. I had a problem once where the underneath of the baffle was pinched and letting air in.

Similarly, my 96 was running somewhat rough and wanted to stall in reverse while cold. It ran fine otherwise. I looked at the baffle and it had a crack letting air in. I duct taped it temporarily and the car now runs ultra smooth.

For both of you guys I would make sure there is no leak between the maf and the throttle body.

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

YES! I promise you, a clogged cat is quite predictable and only at a certain rpm/range. My car pulls just fine before it's warmed up, but once it gets to normal operating temperature it bogs like 5 PM traffic in Los Angeles. The only way to tell whether it's a clogged cat or bad compression is the test the backpressure and to perform a compression test and leakdown test. Other than that, you are simply guessing no matter what.

-Nathan

Legdots

In what year did they begin using drive-by-wire. A bad pedal/pedal sensor could be the issue.

VictrGry93

I don't have acceleration problems, but for me, it's the O2 senor. I keep getting the Bank 1 Sensor 2 code and even after changing it, it comes back. Don't know if you guys have any ideas as to what that may be

Kuhn_man

iTrader: (8)

you changed the wrong one. now quit jacking this thread and post in the im new here thread

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

They switched to fly-by-wire in 2002 when they changed to the VQ35DE.

OP, have you had a chance to test compression and/or back pressure/manifold vacuum? That can tell you A LOT!

-Nathan

Ruining My Nissan

Sorry for taking so long.

I haven't had a chance to get the vacuum test BUT I did end up getting the p0430 code for a bad bank 2 precat. I don't intend to replace this part but was wondering if an o2 sim could be of use. Is it possible the precat is clogged but on its own it's causing no symptoms? once the car is warm and starts reading from the sensor associated with the clogged precat it starts freaking out the ecu?

I'd rather avoid replacing the precat. It's expensive and I'm just going to sell the car.

Any thoughts?

defiance

iTrader: (1)

+111 on this ! If its not a MAF issue then its got to be a leak somewhere in the air intake system between the MAF and Throttle Body. The rubber insulators over time get brittle start to dry up and crack...which lets in unwanted air.

You can get new rubber pieces from the Dealers but there expensive :[
Duct and electrical tape are your friends here till you can get a good permanent fix. The more unmetered air gets in the worse its going to perform, idle, and drive overall.

Max_Gator

Meh. Just leave the light on IMO. Or get headers . . .

Seriously, have you at least looked at everything I mentioned? I'm not talking about a specific test - just a visual inspection.