Cattman sound questions
Thanks for those tips. Reminded me of a job once where we sound-proofed a room using MLV, http://www.soundaway.com/Mass_Loaded...rrier_s/31.htm We used the 2lb/sqft stuff for that job and it was a bear to work with. Made me wonder if that could work in a trunk.... stuff is really heavy though. I wouldn't think that's worth it... (?)
Crawled under the car tonight for the first time ever. It's going to take some time until it feels comfortable under there haha.... but I lasted long enough to take some pics of that bushing. You can see the bushing zip tied to the rear cross member, and the pipe rests on that:
Also, it's sitting slightly towards the back, it's super close to the heat shield. Just about touching it.
If I pull that bushing out the pipe will def hit the cross member. There is some room to go higher, but then the tips touch the bumper when raised. Not sure what to try next... you've said to loosen the bolts after the resonator and playing w it that way and it sounds like I should buy new isolators.... did you guys have a second person helping you? Sorry for all the questions thanks for helping a noob.
Crawled under the car tonight for the first time ever. It's going to take some time until it feels comfortable under there haha.... but I lasted long enough to take some pics of that bushing. You can see the bushing zip tied to the rear cross member, and the pipe rests on that:
Also, it's sitting slightly towards the back, it's super close to the heat shield. Just about touching it.
If I pull that bushing out the pipe will def hit the cross member. There is some room to go higher, but then the tips touch the bumper when raised. Not sure what to try next... you've said to loosen the bolts after the resonator and playing w it that way and it sounds like I should buy new isolators.... did you guys have a second person helping you? Sorry for all the questions thanks for helping a noob.
So, take that peice off the cross member, just barely loosen the bolts on the pipe and rotate them- so you won't have to replace the gaskets, then work with the isolators.
If you were closer, I'd just help ya out. It may take getting under the car and driving then hearing it bang or vibrate and get back under there and negotiate some more. But, you can do it.
I have Cattman headers, fastcat and 3" catback...it was pretty quiet for a 3"....but when I got a tune it got even quieter. Now after the turbo its SUPER quiet (except when boosting its REALLY REALLY LOUD)
So NMEX a 3" testpipe is actually quieter???? Thats crazy.....
So NMEX a 3" testpipe is actually quieter???? Thats crazy.....
I wish I knew about wrapping BEFORE I had it installed lol.... 'price of education' as my granddad always said.... If I knew how to take everything off I'd probably wrap the whole system or have it ceramic coated like some of you have done.
Crazy that you guys think this setup is quiet.
I get looks all the time, especially in parking lots. The best tho is starting from a stoplight that goes under a double bridge.... great echo.
Can I put a couple washers *here* to make a little more room? Or will that mess something up?
edit: I mean putting them behind like a shim to lower the bar
Crazy that you guys think this setup is quiet.
I get looks all the time, especially in parking lots. The best tho is starting from a stoplight that goes under a double bridge.... great echo.Can I put a couple washers *here* to make a little more room? Or will that mess something up?
edit: I mean putting them behind like a shim to lower the bar
Last edited by TSelanne; Aug 28, 2012 at 07:36 PM.
I think that's a great idea if you use a large washer with a hole not much larger than the bolt. But, the washers are not foing to resolve the underlying issues of improper rotation of the pipe or bad/ insufficient isolators.
Got these ones....
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...460_0202102564
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,836
From: NYC
TSelanne, you should check to see if the B Pipe was installed correctly. I believe there is a "dot" on the front end near the flange and it should be pointing up when mounted. If it's pointed down, the pipe is not 100% straight and will rub against the cross-member.
I think someone mentioned it in this thread already. You should check on that.
I think someone mentioned it in this thread already. You should check on that.
I have Cattman headers, fastcat and 3" catback...it was pretty quiet for a 3"....but when I got a tune it got even quieter. Now after the turbo its SUPER quiet (except when boosting its REALLY REALLY LOUD)
So NMEX a 3" testpipe is actually quieter???? Thats crazy.....
So NMEX a 3" testpipe is actually quieter???? Thats crazy.....
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
The installer put some kind of heat resistant bushing on the rear axle (I think its called a bushing) so the pipe rests on that and doesn't rattle against it. There's no rattling whatsoever while driving, just that low-end 'I don't have a muffler' sound.
I have the full system front to back: headers, y-pipe, etc... everything that was offered in the group buy.
I'm hesitant to hack it up because I can still sell it if I take it off... I mean the thing is still shiny so I should be able to get a decent 'used' price for it. I thought it already has a resonator? Sorry if that's a dumb question I'm a newb and still learning here.
A while back when I talked to Brian he mentioned something about it being quieter w a stock muffler, but I didn't think a stock muffler would fit onto the 3in pipe?
I have the full system front to back: headers, y-pipe, etc... everything that was offered in the group buy.
I'm hesitant to hack it up because I can still sell it if I take it off... I mean the thing is still shiny so I should be able to get a decent 'used' price for it. I thought it already has a resonator? Sorry if that's a dumb question I'm a newb and still learning here.
A while back when I talked to Brian he mentioned something about it being quieter w a stock muffler, but I didn't think a stock muffler would fit onto the 3in pipe?
Yes I am. But it's nice to know there's someone who would want it... just in case. 
I'm still working on making time to get this system to hang properly (and finding another vehicle to drive while it's up on the jacks). Being new to all this I know it's going to take some time. I ordered the new bushings from the links you guys provided, printed all the pictures you've posted, and had them laying next to me for reference while under the car trying to fix the side-to-side movement... yeah it's newb central over here. I also need to buy the 200-piece socket wrench set someone recommended, and maybe that torque wrench someone posted from the other thread.
I'm also going to heed your suggestions and wrap the headers, y-pipe, and tubing/piping through the rear axle matrix. Which sucks 'cause I'll have to take 'em back off again, but hey it'll be a learning experience right? I'm going to pick up this http://www.designengineering.com/cat...-lr-technology, unless you guys would suggest something else. With Cmax's new resonator it should be perfect.
I'm still working on making time to get this system to hang properly (and finding another vehicle to drive while it's up on the jacks). Being new to all this I know it's going to take some time. I ordered the new bushings from the links you guys provided, printed all the pictures you've posted, and had them laying next to me for reference while under the car trying to fix the side-to-side movement... yeah it's newb central over here. I also need to buy the 200-piece socket wrench set someone recommended, and maybe that torque wrench someone posted from the other thread.
I'm also going to heed your suggestions and wrap the headers, y-pipe, and tubing/piping through the rear axle matrix. Which sucks 'cause I'll have to take 'em back off again, but hey it'll be a learning experience right? I'm going to pick up this http://www.designengineering.com/cat...-lr-technology, unless you guys would suggest something else. With Cmax's new resonator it should be perfect.
Last edited by TSelanne; Sep 12, 2012 at 06:20 PM.
Yes I am. But it's nice to know there's someone who would want it... just in case.
I'm still working on making time to get this system to hang properly (and finding another vehicle to drive while it's up on the jacks). Being new to all this I know it's going to take some time. I ordered the new bushings from the links you guys provided, printed all the pictures you've posted, and had them laying next to me for reference while under the car trying to fix the side-to-side movement... yeah it's newb central over here. I also need to buy the 200-piece socket wrench set someone recommended, and maybe that torque wrench someone posted from the other thread.
I'm also going to heed your suggestions and wrap the headers, y-pipe, and tubing/piping through the rear axle matrix. Which sucks 'cause I'll have to take 'em back off again, but hey it'll be a learning experience right? I'm going to pick up this http://www.designengineering.com/cat...-lr-technology, unless you guys would suggest something else. With Cmax's new resonator it should be perfect.
I'm still working on making time to get this system to hang properly (and finding another vehicle to drive while it's up on the jacks). Being new to all this I know it's going to take some time. I ordered the new bushings from the links you guys provided, printed all the pictures you've posted, and had them laying next to me for reference while under the car trying to fix the side-to-side movement... yeah it's newb central over here. I also need to buy the 200-piece socket wrench set someone recommended, and maybe that torque wrench someone posted from the other thread.
I'm also going to heed your suggestions and wrap the headers, y-pipe, and tubing/piping through the rear axle matrix. Which sucks 'cause I'll have to take 'em back off again, but hey it'll be a learning experience right? I'm going to pick up this http://www.designengineering.com/cat...-lr-technology, unless you guys would suggest something else. With Cmax's new resonator it should be perfect.
Thanks Rods.
My tips are causing cracking from the heat. They are not touching, I can get a fingertip between the exhaust tip and bumper.
Edit; shortened
My tips are causing cracking from the heat. They are not touching, I can get a fingertip between the exhaust tip and bumper.
Edit; shortened
Last edited by TSelanne; Sep 17, 2012 at 05:47 PM.
Mine extends pass the bumper so the heat isn't directly blasting/contacting my rear facsia....Install a generic 3/8" thick, 3" ID flange with two gaskets and it will push the tips rearward...!
Rods that looks nice and perfect.
Well third time's a charm. First time was just jacking up the car and being able to lay under it without freaking out. Second time was to count bushings and test where it was bumping and looking at all the posted pics for comparison. Rnd 3 took a bit longer than I thought, but mainly 'cause I was doing noob things. Like trying to find the right sized allen wrench to unscrew the wider part of the hanger... o wait, that doesn't unscrew!
I found that this was the money spot. Without it being solid here it would bump frame going thru the rear axle matrix no matter what. I used the 35725 bushing and rotated the bigger original one upwards.
This longer bushing was a lifesaver. The 62-00901 and 17163 bushings were too short - I mean they would work but the tips would end up too close to the bumper (and it's already cracked from the heat). Now the exhaust tips are *just the slightest bit crooked because of this bushing, but you can't really tell. This was the bushing the installer used between the rear axle and pipe.
Otherwise I used 2 more 35725 bushings for the other hangers. They lifted things up to a nice height. All I had to do was drill out the top holes to 1/2 in. dia. and they're good to go.
No touching, no banging, no more 'resonating'. Getting the pipe off that bushing reduced the in-cabin drone quite a bit, especially at the 2300rpm spot. Still pretty loud though, so next I'm going to buy the parts for the "CMax resonator" and go that route me thinks...
How would that work, where would the flange go?
Well third time's a charm. First time was just jacking up the car and being able to lay under it without freaking out. Second time was to count bushings and test where it was bumping and looking at all the posted pics for comparison. Rnd 3 took a bit longer than I thought, but mainly 'cause I was doing noob things. Like trying to find the right sized allen wrench to unscrew the wider part of the hanger... o wait, that doesn't unscrew!
I found that this was the money spot. Without it being solid here it would bump frame going thru the rear axle matrix no matter what. I used the 35725 bushing and rotated the bigger original one upwards.
This longer bushing was a lifesaver. The 62-00901 and 17163 bushings were too short - I mean they would work but the tips would end up too close to the bumper (and it's already cracked from the heat). Now the exhaust tips are *just the slightest bit crooked because of this bushing, but you can't really tell. This was the bushing the installer used between the rear axle and pipe.
Otherwise I used 2 more 35725 bushings for the other hangers. They lifted things up to a nice height. All I had to do was drill out the top holes to 1/2 in. dia. and they're good to go.
No touching, no banging, no more 'resonating'. Getting the pipe off that bushing reduced the in-cabin drone quite a bit, especially at the 2300rpm spot. Still pretty loud though, so next I'm going to buy the parts for the "CMax resonator" and go that route me thinks...
How would that work, where would the flange go?
Last edited by TSelanne; Sep 19, 2012 at 09:51 PM.
More 3in/3out mufflers I could find (some look pretty cheap). Without hearing it first, how does one know which muffler is better or best?
http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers.php?muffler=racebullet
http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/sh...&orig=13014310
http://www.bassani.com/part/RM304512
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2111531
What's the biggest that could fit properly? ... wonder if a 7in would fit? That's 538 cu.in.
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=10616
Could magna 12641 work if it piping on either side chopped? Or no because of the cross member? Would be over 3x the volume.
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=10462
http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers.php?muffler=racebullet
http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/sh...&orig=13014310
http://www.bassani.com/part/RM304512
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2111531
What's the biggest that could fit properly? ... wonder if a 7in would fit? That's 538 cu.in.
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=10616
Could magna 12641 work if it piping on either side chopped? Or no because of the cross member? Would be over 3x the volume.
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=10462
Last edited by TSelanne; Sep 19, 2012 at 10:06 PM.
Ok, so I just got home after getting the the "CMax resonator" welded together and installed:
O2 sensors:
So when I first got in and started it up, I was like "Oh $&!# there goes a couple hundred bucks" because it didn't really sound any different at idle..... and then i remembered how loud the entire system was after the initial install and how much it quieted down over time. So I fully expect it to quiet down further, just as the original resonator did (took about 300-500 miles). Recognizing that, my thoughts:
It is quieter than the 4". Not by much, but noticeable. Tone didn't change at all, only volume. Most noticeable decrease was in the 'out-of-drone' rpms.... ex: when I cruise at 70-75, rpms are around 3k, and it was quieter there for sure. The biggest difference I noticed was that it seemed to 'narrow' the drone zone. Before it was loudest at 2300, but still be almost as loud from like 1500-2800. Now it seems to have the same volume at 2300 (maybe slightly less), but it's quieter at 2000 and 2600. I haven't pushed it above 4k yet, so again, this is all very preliminary.
edit
O2 sensors:
So when I first got in and started it up, I was like "Oh $&!# there goes a couple hundred bucks" because it didn't really sound any different at idle..... and then i remembered how loud the entire system was after the initial install and how much it quieted down over time. So I fully expect it to quiet down further, just as the original resonator did (took about 300-500 miles). Recognizing that, my thoughts:
It is quieter than the 4". Not by much, but noticeable. Tone didn't change at all, only volume. Most noticeable decrease was in the 'out-of-drone' rpms.... ex: when I cruise at 70-75, rpms are around 3k, and it was quieter there for sure. The biggest difference I noticed was that it seemed to 'narrow' the drone zone. Before it was loudest at 2300, but still be almost as loud from like 1500-2800. Now it seems to have the same volume at 2300 (maybe slightly less), but it's quieter at 2000 and 2600. I haven't pushed it above 4k yet, so again, this is all very preliminary.
edit
Last edited by TSelanne; Feb 3, 2014 at 05:17 PM.
Ok, so I just got home after getting the the "CMax resonator" welded together and installed:
O2 sensors:
So when I first got in and started it up, I was like "Oh $&!# there goes a couple hundred bucks" because it didn't really sound any different at idle..... and then i remembered how loud the entire system was after the initial install and how much it quieted down over time. So I fully expect it to quiet down further, just as the original resonator did (took about 300-500 miles). Recognizing that, my thoughts:
It is quieter than the 4". Not by much, but noticeable. Tone didn't change at all, only volume. Most noticeable decrease was in the 'out-of-drone' rpms.... ex: when I cruise at 70-75, rpms are around 3k, and it was quieter there for sure. The biggest difference I noticed was that it seemed to 'narrow' the drone zone. Before it was loudest at 2300, but still be almost as loud from like 1500-2800. Now it seems to have the same volume at 2300 (maybe slightly less), but it's quieter at 2000 and 2600. I haven't pushed it above 4k yet, so again, this is all very preliminary.
One thing I wonder about: The SS tubing is 12" long. After everything is put together, 6" sticks out from the Magnaflow piping towards the front (towards the cat). Which means the other 6" of SS tubing penetrates 6" into the MF body, covering 3" of the perforated holes. That makes me wonder if the effectiveness of the muffler is decreased by 3 inches. I mean if gasses can only move through 15" of perforated holes, is that *in effect* turning your 18" muffler into a 15" muffler? Or do the gases re-circulate behind the inner SS tubing so it doesn't really matter? Either way, if I did it again I would cut the SS tube down to 9 inches just to make sure.
Cmax, I posted in this thread instead of the other because of your "before" sound clip - now you can please the masses and make an "after".
edit: cattman 4" resonator now for sale - will post in bst's....
O2 sensors:
So when I first got in and started it up, I was like "Oh $&!# there goes a couple hundred bucks" because it didn't really sound any different at idle..... and then i remembered how loud the entire system was after the initial install and how much it quieted down over time. So I fully expect it to quiet down further, just as the original resonator did (took about 300-500 miles). Recognizing that, my thoughts:
It is quieter than the 4". Not by much, but noticeable. Tone didn't change at all, only volume. Most noticeable decrease was in the 'out-of-drone' rpms.... ex: when I cruise at 70-75, rpms are around 3k, and it was quieter there for sure. The biggest difference I noticed was that it seemed to 'narrow' the drone zone. Before it was loudest at 2300, but still be almost as loud from like 1500-2800. Now it seems to have the same volume at 2300 (maybe slightly less), but it's quieter at 2000 and 2600. I haven't pushed it above 4k yet, so again, this is all very preliminary.
One thing I wonder about: The SS tubing is 12" long. After everything is put together, 6" sticks out from the Magnaflow piping towards the front (towards the cat). Which means the other 6" of SS tubing penetrates 6" into the MF body, covering 3" of the perforated holes. That makes me wonder if the effectiveness of the muffler is decreased by 3 inches. I mean if gasses can only move through 15" of perforated holes, is that *in effect* turning your 18" muffler into a 15" muffler? Or do the gases re-circulate behind the inner SS tubing so it doesn't really matter? Either way, if I did it again I would cut the SS tube down to 9 inches just to make sure.
Cmax, I posted in this thread instead of the other because of your "before" sound clip - now you can please the masses and make an "after".
edit: cattman 4" resonator now for sale - will post in bst's....
the welds are PRETTY!
Last edited by CMax03; Oct 25, 2012 at 05:53 PM.
I found that this was the money spot. Without it being solid here it would bump frame going thru the rear axle matrix no matter what. I used the 35725 bushing and rotated the bigger original one upwards.
This longer bushing was a lifesaver. The 62-00901 and 17163 bushings were too short - I mean they would work but the tips would end up too close to the bumper (and it's already cracked from the heat). Now the exhaust tips are *just the slightest bit crooked because of this bushing, but you can't really tell. This was the bushing the installer used between the rear axle and pipe.
Otherwise I used 2 more 35725 bushings for the other hangers. They lifted things up to a nice height. All I had to do was drill out the top holes to 1/2 in. dia. and they're good to go.
No touching, no banging, no more 'resonating'. Getting the pipe off that bushing reduced the in-cabin drone quite a bit, especially at the 2300rpm spot. Still pretty loud though, so next I'm going to buy the parts for the "CMax resonator" and go that route me thinks...
How would that work, where would the flange go?
This longer bushing was a lifesaver. The 62-00901 and 17163 bushings were too short - I mean they would work but the tips would end up too close to the bumper (and it's already cracked from the heat). Now the exhaust tips are *just the slightest bit crooked because of this bushing, but you can't really tell. This was the bushing the installer used between the rear axle and pipe.
Otherwise I used 2 more 35725 bushings for the other hangers. They lifted things up to a nice height. All I had to do was drill out the top holes to 1/2 in. dia. and they're good to go.
No touching, no banging, no more 'resonating'. Getting the pipe off that bushing reduced the in-cabin drone quite a bit, especially at the 2300rpm spot. Still pretty loud though, so next I'm going to buy the parts for the "CMax resonator" and go that route me thinks...
How would that work, where would the flange go?
aftermarket, much harder than OEM, exhaust hangers. Mine NEVER rattled EVER. Doesnt even move not one bit. Dont need 8 hangers smashed all up to make it stronger.
After a few minutes of charging the camera I was able to film a video:
Before with 3" Cattman Catback:
After with 3" Hybrid Cattman Catback:
Before with 3" Cattman Catback:
After with 3" Hybrid Cattman Catback:
Last edited by CMax03; Oct 27, 2012 at 03:44 PM.
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