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In the middle of instrument cluster backlight repair

Old Sep 15, 2012 | 02:06 PM
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In the middle of instrument cluster backlight repair

My backlight in my cluster began to flicker for a while before it finally went out.I tried another switch from a junkyard only to yield same result.There was
also a smell before it went out as well so I knew something was wrong.I removed cluster and took it apart only to find a component on the circuit board burned.Can anyone identify the item???.Ive searched online with no luck.Its the component labeled "C218" circled in red.Any help is appreciated.

Old Sep 15, 2012 | 04:06 PM
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just change the cluster out, cheaper than tryna fix that one, ebay.com. i got one for my friend with 50k for $60 shipped
Old Sep 15, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Thanks.I was trying to keep my same mileage reading or is there a way around that now??I may be shopping soon if I cant fix this one.
Old Sep 15, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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Contact tunermaxima or americaner they know what it is
Old Sep 15, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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That's a capacitor that blew up. Unless you can read the value (and judging by the pic, nobody can) or get your hands on an actual component schematic of the cluster PCB, you're **** out of luck with regards to replacing that cap. Besides, caps just don't blow on their own accord...chances are some other component shorted out and caused the cap to go buh-bye.

Best bet is to get a new cluster with similar mileage. If you're super worried about the mileage (and can do some basic soldering / desoldering) you can replace the actual mileage IC (chip) on the cluster PCB so you keep your mileage accurate.
Old Sep 15, 2012 | 09:54 PM
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Thats what I figured so i guess Im cluster shopping this week.Thanks.
Old Sep 15, 2012 | 10:15 PM
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yeah, sorry bro
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
That's a capacitor that blew up. Unless you can read the value (and judging by the pic, nobody can) or get your hands on an actual component schematic of the cluster PCB, you're **** out of luck with regards to replacing that cap. Besides, caps just don't blow on their own accord...chances are some other component shorted out and caused the cap to go buh-bye.

Best bet is to get a new cluster with similar mileage. If you're super worried about the mileage (and can do some basic soldering / desoldering) you can replace the actual mileage IC (chip) on the cluster PCB so you keep your mileage accurate.
This.
In General, Circuit boards are marked
"C" = Capacitor
"R" = Resistor
"D" = Diode
"ZD" = Zener Diode
"TR" = Transistor

And so on, fairly straight forward in that regard. HOWEVER, the numbers next to them are simply location numbers, they don't represent actual component values.


OP: Responding here instead of in response to your PM. To add to Americaner's suggestion, I'd agree.

You've already taken this apart, ASSUMING that you know how to disassemble and reassemble the cluster correctly, the easiest thing to do is get another cluster and simply swap the mileage chip.

Here's the chip.

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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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Your circuit board is different but the chip is the same. You can actually see it on the far left part of your picture, just the edge of it, from what I see.
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 04:55 PM
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Thanks for great pic of the chip.I believe I can tackle this.I also learned
the hard way last night not to drive my vehicle with cluster out.I made it
about 3 miles from home before lights went out and vehicle shut off.
dead battery so I had to go home reassemble the cluster and reinstall just
so I can get back home.

Last edited by memphisballer; Sep 16, 2012 at 05:00 PM.
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 07:46 PM
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Yeah I burnt up some completely random Audio lead, and the door chime was 'alarming' random beeps at me for the longest time, lights flickered, madness occured.

At the end I was lucky the only thing that went bad was 3 fuses and I had to re-wire a trigger for the audio unit.

Crazy ish!!! Never drive without the cluster!
Old Feb 17, 2024 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
This.
In General, Circuit boards are marked
"C" = Capacitor
"R" = Resistor
"D" = Diode
"ZD" = Zener Diode
"TR" = Transistor

And so on, fairly straight forward in that regard. HOWEVER, the numbers next to them are simply location numbers, they don't represent actual component values.


OP: Responding here instead of in response to your PM. To add to Americaner's suggestion, I'd agree.

You've already taken this apart, ASSUMING that you know how to disassemble and reassemble the cluster correctly, the easiest thing to do is get another cluster and simply swap the mileage chip.

Here's the chip.

Attachment 41743

Attachment 41744
This works. Just did it after swapping to a junkyard SE cluster. Thanks!
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