Ok, I'm in the process of swapping out my sway bar end links, have done some research, and didn't think it was going to be such a huge deal. Ok, the car is a 2000, got some rust underneath, of course, but it actually doesn't look that bad. BUT the nuts are caked on there!!! The bottom nuts, started to turn under some major torque, then it came to a complete stop, and stripped, both sides of course. At least there was a little bit of room, to fit a saw blade, cut those suckers off, no problem. And now, the top ones, F@@@! The nuts rounded off, did Nissan make these out of alloy or something? S!!T, I mean they're softer than crap. Spent enough hours on those suckers, getting the batteries charged for some drilling action tomorrow night. Hopeufully it'll finally come out. I am tired, a long day at work, then more bs w/ the car. Anyhow, thanks for letting me vent.

 

Someone didn't soak them

 

I've used PB blaster and Liquid wrench ... neither worked!

 

DAMN THAT Sucks....GL Tomorrow....

 

I've had good success when I lock a visegrip on the inner hex portion right inside the rubber boot and an impact gun on the outer. If you don't have an impact then visegrip the inner and heat the outer nut with a propane torch and go at it with a ratchet.

 

This is the best thing that I've found so far.

 

zip cut

 

cut dem bishes off bra! then when you put the new MOOG ones on make sure you get 8 hardened flatwashers to prevent front end clunk.

 

torching them off is the easiest way

 

Thanks for the tip bro, but I got OEM ones, heard some clunking issues w/ the MOOG, so OEM is the way to go for me. Don't need to do this twice. lol

 

UPDATE: Thanks for the tips guys, I thought about torching the crap out of them, but was too afraid to accidentally torch my brake lines, and/or abs lines. My cordless drill and reciprocating saw did the trick, spent the evening battling her out, but came out on top in the end.

Impact wrench, I need one of those, I have a cheapie one, I think that's what rounded off the first nut. Had a wrench on the back side, the impact wrench on the front side, thought the nut broke lose when she finally spun, but instead, the nut rounded off.

POLL: Should I attempt to do the outer tie rods while I'm at it???

 

if youre scared of heating something up, take a clean rag and soak it in cold water and put the rag on brake lines or whatever

only thing is have a bottle of water close by, the rubber part of the endlink sometimes will catch fire a little bit

 

I replaced my lower control arms last week and I used a correct fitting 6 point/sided socket for the nut, wd40/pb blaster combo, breaker bar, crescent wrench on the endlink inner, and a hammer to knock the breaker bar down in "impact" fashion. both came loose just fine.

but I did notice they are of a soft material. My endlinks come today, so hopefully the sway bar side cames loose just as easily.

 

The sway bar side bolts seem to be the more troublesome ones. Make sure you have a perfect grip (vise grips worked well for me) on that inner bolt or else it will round off pretty much instantly. I rounded the inner nut off on my passenger side using an open-end wrench and this is how it looked after 2 hours of chiseling.



Good luck and don't screw up like me.

 

I will take a pic of mine later tonight, it was NOT fun taking those suckers off!!! What are you all using for a replacement???

 

replaced mine yesterday. they came off just fine with my technique of wd40/pb blaster, then hammering the ratchet while a crescent wrench held the back side. but this is a southern lived car that probably only saw road salt a handful of times.

 

I used Moog endlinks and Moog bushings.

 

^i went moog as well. endlinks and tierod ends from amazon.com