might help if you post up a picture of what your describing

 

00/01 Maxima has a IAT (Intake air temp sensor). This is pretty important, and should be installed in the intake.

You can let it stay where it is, it's not the end of the world, but fuel mileage and performance can suffer because the readings aren't accurate when the ECM calculates fuel, etc.

 

I think what you are talking about are the air intake temperature sensor and the boost sensor (forgot the other name for it). I do not think they are that important. Take them out and just put them aside somewhere. Keep wires and hoses plugged

 

Since it's a cali auto max with 171k already on the clock.....Im thinking of just getting some nuts and bolts and tightening the scoop up nice with the sensors in it. Its worked sofar for 60k miles with no CEL just a little floppy for my tastes with just plastic rivets. From looking at all the pics, I think you Federal guys have less hoses and BS in your resonator too. I don't know if I should play with fire. ..Smarter for Cali people to accept their limitations and buy a Federal car next time....lol. Only thing I knew about this car when I bought it was that it won engine awards many years in a row...just like my VFR750)

 

Thanks, both you and toshido. Both are correct. I ended up lightly zip tying the "boost sensor" to the large radiator hose....almost right where it was stock....Then lightly zip tied the "intake air temp" sensor to the main rear battery bolt..after making sure it was goodn tight of course. It sits in a way that its right next to the cone filter.....as accurate as itll get in this situation....The wires arent long enough for me to drill a bung into the stock intake...that also just feels not right to me. All this allowed me to ditch all that plastic from the fender and the scoop Cheers!

 

^ While not the correct way, this is also the precise way I did mine. Then again, my mileage is terrible on this car.

Then again, if I cared about either, I'd have left it stock, because it works better stock, but I really, really like the noise from the SRI setup, so it stays.

 

I took out entire stock intake box.bought a maf adapter n ran a 3 inch air filter n its still silent! when i did this to my 4th gen it sounded WAYY better..why is that? its 00 se..

 

I am glad to see nothing has changed over her in .org since I left 7 years ago

 

I had an 00 before and when I bought the car the air intake temperature sensor was pulled put and hanging in the engine bat. When I went to clean up the car I found it and plugged it back in. Never had an issue before with the sensor just hanging in there. Neither did the previous owner.

 

As I further contemplate modifying my intake what are the implications in removing/plugging these lines to the intake?

I know the one of the lines is the breather from the valve cover. As I read in this thread if I turn that into a breather, I need to remove my PCV and put it as a breather as well.

What about the other two lines?

To be honest, regardless of what others say it does not impact your MPG that much. After modifying my intake I had it in the engine bay for a while, and then moved it to the air filter, and then the MAF sensor (just after the sensor).

No difference in MPG in all three locations. I maintained between 20-21 MPG in all locations...same driving habits between the locations.

The only way it would have a significant impact is if you put it next to a hot area such as right up against the engine or near the exhaust. Aside from that...location doesn't have much impact.

 

Its been awhile since I've looked at a 00-01, but from what I can remember: The big one is the front valve cover breather, the next smaller one is for the VI solenoid, the smallest one is for various emissions solenoids in the vacuum gallery. Technically the 2 smaller lines could be left open to the ambient air.

 

Thanks. I'll test it out leaving those open and see how it affects the performance. I was hoping I could cap those off though...

 

ok sorry to bump a few month old thread.... so i did the maf adapter and 3" cone filter and left everything from the maf back stock. I got a SES light please help me

 

Filter dry or oiled, and have you checked the code to see what it says....

 

Its an oiled spectre filter and the codes are P0100 and P0110

 

Did you plug your MAF back in?
Is it facing the correct direction?

 

Shouldn't you have two oil Breathers?

 

^^ this

 

Still shouldn't cause a MAF code. Especially the 2 codes mentioned at the same time. That usually only happens when you forget to plug the MAF back in. Keep in mind, this is a thread bump from January.

 

I thought jus add a breather filter to each vc..if i remove pcv valve what do u plug hole with?

 

No, you did it right. And I'm pretty sure JSutter meant remove the PCV as in plug it or drill the valve out if you're only using the front breather.

Just a sidenote, myself and probably dozens if not hundreds of other members have run only one breather in the front with no problems.

Idle is slightly leaner, but other than that, it's fine. Mine has run like that for years and thousands of miles with no incident.

 

So you just added a breather up front n kept the hose connected from rear to front vc?

 

No no.

Either put 2 breathers on (front and rear) or remove the PCV and add a breather to the front.

Or, do it right and keep the PCV line where it's supposed to. After years of adding fuel at idle, I deiced to to it right and got an intake with the line for the PCV.

 

Adding Fuel at idle? n okay so I'm Good Thanks!

 

With only 1 breather and a functional PCV valve, it will run lean, to combat that, I added fuel.