Right !@#$@& Drive Shaft
#1
Right !@#$@& Drive Shaft
Anyone have any hints on getting the right drive shaft out of the bearing carrier? It's been pissing me off for about three hours now. I've called it a night.
#6
I used a 12 mm wrench on the one I could see, the other two I got at with a socket and eight inch extension over top of the y-pipe.
#7
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Spray on some penetrating oil, give the bracket and driveshaft collar that connects to the bracket a few firm whacks with a hammer to help break the corrosion bond, and then use a fairly thin chisel and drive it into the seam between the bracket and collar(don't go psycho and damage anything) once you separate them a bit you'll be able to pry them apart. When you reassemble be sure to use some anti-seize and it will be cake next time you take it apart.
#8
Spray on some penetrating oil, give the bracket and driveshaft collar that connects to the bracket a few firm whacks with a hammer to help break the corrosion bond, and then use a fairly thin chisel and drive it into the seam between the bracket and collar(don't go psycho and damage anything) once you separate them a bit you'll be able to pry them apart. When you reassemble be sure to use some anti-seize and it will be cake next time you take it apart.
#9
I think the fsm says there is a slot where the inbouard side of the cv sits in the trans. Pretty sure you need to release through that slot with a screwdriver. Not 100% on this but hopefully this helps.
edit:— For A/T models —
I Insert screwdriver into transaxle opening for right drive shaft
and strike with a hammer.
Be careful not to damage pinion mate shaft and side gear.
edit:— For A/T models —
I Insert screwdriver into transaxle opening for right drive shaft
and strike with a hammer.
Be careful not to damage pinion mate shaft and side gear.
Last edited by riz600; 02-09-2013 at 12:29 PM.
#10
ok cool - go give it a nice firm tug now, should come right out . if that doesn't work try taking the actual bracket off. its three 14 or 17mm bolts that bolt to the block of the motor. once you get that out your good to go, pull the axle right out - then you can work on getting it separated comfortably out of the car.
Last edited by joesae01max; 02-09-2013 at 01:07 PM.
#11
I can't seem to get to the bracket mounting bolts without dropping the y-pipe and I'd rather not deal with those rusted a$$ bolts. There doesn't seem to be any way I could get enough force on the end of the shaft without doing serious damage to the pinion gear. I'm thinking about unbolting the transmission and trying to slide it off of the axle. With that out of the way I could hammer on the end of the drive shaft with reckless abandon. What do you guys think?
If I can't drop the transmission with the drive shaft still in there maybe I could just use my trusty 4" die grinder and cut the drive shaft in half. Drop transmission and then hammer away with reckless abandon. (and buy new drive shaft)
I'm getting desperate in case you couldn't tell. lol
If I can't drop the transmission with the drive shaft still in there maybe I could just use my trusty 4" die grinder and cut the drive shaft in half. Drop transmission and then hammer away with reckless abandon. (and buy new drive shaft)
I'm getting desperate in case you couldn't tell. lol
#13
I did my passenger side axle not too long ago, maybe a couple of weeks...I used an air hammer with a chisel tip in between the axle and carrier (not at the transmission, but in the bearing retainer). If you have access to air tools, that's the way to. I've done that on every one that I've done and haven't had a problem so far. Good luck!
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hez8813
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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03-12-2020 12:06 AM