How can i connect the High level input from my amp to stock bose in 2001 nissan maxima?

 

Stereo section is best place for question. However, IIRC you're not supposed to piggy back amps. There's an adaptor for the system, but it sounds like you're keeping the stock system and adding an amp.

Yeah, I'm just going to stop. Check the stereo section.

 

What purpose amp will you be using? Sub or speaker amp? I prefer use a line level converter before the factory amp with either. I forget if the max has a high level going to the amp or a low. Either way id try to use a converter or just tag before the factory amp straight into the high level inputs. If it sounds way to low or high then you will need to change the way you hook up. Trail and error. With all honesty, i would not even bother and put in a new deck. Even the cheap ones would be a gain compaired to what it would sound like with having to convert.

 

If you want, use the FSM and tap into the line level inputs and create your own RCA inputs for the aftermarket amps. I had to do this on my friends 08 G35 since there was no changing his OEM head unit/navi

 

What he said. LLC or just buy a new HU and the stock system will sound MUCH better and you cna play MP3s, navi, etc.

 

I will be using a sub monoblock amp that has a high level input with sensing turn on. I want to connect it to my bose stock rear amp or subwoofer but i dont know how to connect the high level input into it.

 

I might be buying a new headunit though but as of right now i want to keep it stock.

 

I'll try to clarify. You shouldn't tap into the output from the Bose amp (piggy back) because it messes with the impedance read by the amp and can mess up the Bose amp and/or the Bose sub. Best bet would be to tap into the signal before the Bose amp which would be low input. You can wire/tap in RCA ends and then just run a short RCA cord to your amp. This better protects both amps and the integrity of the signal for both amps.

Now, that is my redimentery understanding from 20 years ago and technology has leaped forward. But I'm sure what you are trying to do is not the correct method, assuming I'm understanding you correctly.

To be perfectly honest, the most practical and straight forward thing would be to disconnect the Bose amp, remove (or leave for simplicity's sake) the Bose amp, and just run your amp and sub.

I had a non Bose car and decided to go through the trouble of getting the Bose sub plate and Bose rear deck cover so I could install a factory looking 8" sub. Didn't want to go through the trouble and expense of something bigger. I ended up even making a custom round tube "box" which mounted beneath the sub, which worked fantastic. However, bass was still limited, low range was unobtainable, and the sub could not keep up at higher volumes when I wanted. I bought a 12" with box to just sit in my trunk. Tried running both in the biggining, but the 8" just became a distraction to the 12" sub. Ultimately I completely removed the 8" and the box I made for it. I can now just tune my lows for that sub, greatly simplifying all while enhancing my basic setup.

I say all that just to suggest you're really over complicating your setup when there are going to be little to no benifit keeping the Bose amp and sub. My.02 cents. Bout all it's worth.

 

Ok thanks.

 

But if i uninstall the bose amp how would i connect my kenwood amp to the stereo?