Crapola!

Is it the motor? Regulator? Or both? Anybody have one laying around willing to part with?

My 2000 Maxima has 240k miles and they have never been replaced so I'm assuming the worst.

 

Do you hear anything when using the up/down switch? If all is silent then my money is on the motor or the switch. My car has 240,000 miles on it too, I hope my window isn't going to poop out now.

 

I hear nothing. It's just dead.

 

The switches in the armrest can be removed without pulling the door panel off. I would pull them out first to confirm there's voltage at and through the switch, then pull the door panel off last.

 

Yeah it's the switch. Now I gotta find a cheap driver side switch!

 

Have you tried opening up the switch to see what went wrong? I had a BMW, every switch in it could be disassembled and in most cases I could fix them without too much effort.

It looks like the entire module has to be replaced from what I'm seeing in online parts manuals, that's a bummer.

 

apply power to the window motor to see reverse the wires to do the opposite...hopefully it's your switch and not the regulator unrevieling...

 

I'm having this issue as well my power window, drivers,front, is now stuck all the way down ! Looks like the switch is dead just for my window as all the others work as well as the locks.

Orgers is there a way to manually roll this window up until I can get another switch for it !? My drivers door doesnt look to nice with a garbage bag over it at night !

 

Had the exact problem. It wasn't the switch, so had to replace motor, and it worked again for another week or two (slowly and ****ty like it did before the fix). Long story short, motor didn't fix it and went out again and needed the whole module. Should've checked the module first before just throwing in the motor.

If you hear no sound from the up/down switch, most likely it's the motor and very often the whole module goes bad on our cars and that's a known problem of an older Max.
I would always check the switch first though, because those switches do go bad often times from such prolonged usage. If it's not the switch, pretty much motor and possibly whole module but you can do resistance testing on it w/ multimeter. My module was getting low/fluctuating voltage hence why it was just burning out and killing the motor.

And BTW for the above ^^^^ poster, I don't know of any way to roll the window back up manually once it's stuck, and I think you can actually make it worse if you force it too hard. Mine was stuck also when it happened, luckily it was stuck at 95% closed so it was OK till I got it fixed. At the least, if you're not planning to fix it yet then take off the door panel and you can move the window up manually from there on the inside but I wouldn't do it just by pulling/pushing on the top of the window. Another thing you can do if it's just your switch (depending on what went bad) is snap the switch out of there, and sometimes it's possible to connect a load that will simulate the UP command and move your window up, then get it fixed whenever you want.

 

Maybe you can swap driver and passenger switch/motor/module to roll window up?

 

There's an excellent video on YouTube to show you how to remove the driver's side door panel (which presumably works well for the passenger side too) with just a 7mm & 10mm ratchet/nut driver and a small flathead screwdriver (to pop the bolt covers off). Just search on "How To Install Replace Power Window Regulator or Motor Nissan Maxima 04-08 1AAuto.com".

Well, it's a few years after this thread was started, but my 2004 has been having a very similar problem with the driver's side window. It either works, or it doesn't -- no weakness in the motor. Just occasionally if I put the window halfway down and stop, it won't respond. I can nearly always 'wake it up' by shoving the window down a bit, and then it's fine. then it'll go weeks without a problem until it decides to act up again.

The switch still makes an audible click response, and the fact that a shove will fix the issue makes me think it's not the switch or motor, but rather something in the regulator (or whatever the mechanical thing is that guides the window inside the door) or some kind of sensor. Does that make any sense? Any new ideas out there?

btw, I have yet to find a technical or service bulletin on anything resembling this issue.

g

 

Probably the motor. Happened to me last year. Thought it was the switch but that would have been too easy. Shops wanted $400 to replace but the whole piece was $50 with a coupon at Advance Auto Parts. Changed it in an hour or so. Be careful moving that window around in and out of the door panel though. I scratched my tint taking mine out of the door.

 

I think jared21927 is right, probably the motor. The brushes are probably sticking and not always making a connection.

I have never changed a motor or regulator on a 6th gen. You might be able to change just the motor without taking the glass out.

 

Or you can manually raise it to the closed position after it's unbolted and tape it to the door frame....