Can I use the linked method with my front electric mount if I get the liquid and as much material out of the way? I'm looking for the cheapest way to replace my weak motor mounts and gain much needed strength. Has anyone done this method on the 5.5 gen auto?

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...or-mounts.html

 

Sure you can. Not sure how that is the easier or cheaper option. Just get an eBay unit for a manual trans. That will be an upgrade in itself. If that's not enough of an upgrade, you can buy knight's Wrayth mount insert for the passenger torque mount. That set up will be far superior to simply poly'ing the front.

 

Buy cheap MT mount for front and es inserts if your in a hurty

 

I wasn't totally clear in my first post. I want stiffer mounts front and back. A can of Devcon Flexane 94 is cheaper than ES inserts and a front manual mount. My question is if I can use this stuff on the front mount since it is electric and liquid filled. I'm assuming and hoping I can just cut out as much of the old mount as I can. Hopefully that will be fine. The rear I'm not worried about, since it is a normal mount. The filling method should be just fine for the rear mount.

 

You dont need the electric mount anyway gut it and pour away

 

I figured as much, but wanted to double check. Thanx.

 

Infact unplug mount now to avoid the related exu frying issue

 

FYI... I found this product on a website that sells energy suspension parts. Fairly cheap.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=DIYMMI

 

The electric mount is a hydraulic fluid filled mount that stiffens up as acceleration increases. It kills me when guys want to go the cheap way out all the time. Get the OEM electric mount and let it do what it was designed to do you wont regret it.

I replaced all three of my mounts with OEM Nissan mounts and the difference is night and day.. my car feels brand new again, no more vibration and accelerates beautifully.

Also there was some talk about using the manuel transmission mount on auto and just taping back the sensor wire.. Again you are loosing the benefit of the electric mount doing this. if you dont really care about your car then go the cheap way.

 

5th gen has issues with it causing major issues due to defect.

 

I appreciate your opinion. You would be correct if I still wanted a from the factory feel. I want my engine to be more solid in the engine bay and not move as much. When I had my car dyno tuned a few years ago the engine moved a lot. It was quite amazing how much it moved. That was when my stock mounts were fine. To get the results I want I can do one of three things: 1. Make my own mounts. 2. Buy energy suspension inserts and a manual transmission front mount. 3. Buy energy suspension inserts and have a sleeve welded to the inside of my front stock auto mount. If I can get the desired results by saving money and making my own I'm good with that. Many DIY projects turn out as good or better than buying the product.

 

hmm not aware of the defect, I have a 4th gen.. but Im speaking in terms of when its working properly. The only problem I have had is when it failed.. Im talking 16 years same OEM mounts.. thats a hell of longevity.

 

I suppose.. I dont notice my engine moving at all now that all the mounts are new. The car feels so smooth Im very happy with it. I guess its all about what your looking for and how much you wanna spend.

 

I get your goal, it's clearer now. Perhaps poly is cheaper now than when I did my mounts on my '89 Maxima, seems like it was around $100. If you've got enough left over, could go ahead and add some meat to the torque and tranny mounts. Which density you looking at going with?

 

The 80. It seems to be a good middle of the road choice for the street.

 

I've got filled mounts as described in the link, not ES along with the NWP ETL. It's one of my top at least 3 favorite mods, and I've got a few to speak from.

I'd say gut 'em both and fill 'em.

 

Since you've done this what density did you go with? 94 or 80? Did you gut and fill your stock automatic mounts? I also have the NWP torque link, so I'm glad to hear you use it with the filled mounts. Thank you in advance.

 

If you fill the mount I believe it takes quite some time to fully cure. I did manual ebay mounts and then had ES pressed in. I loved the extra vibration personally. Racecarrr. With a torque link the auto tranny was shifting smoother and everything.

 

You mean hardness, correct? I bought mine used from a member on here, and I believe they were 94.

But, the AT front mount can be done just as easily.


18 -24 hours should be adequate for proper curing. Toss them in the oven if you want them overnight.

 

In the oven right next to the cornbread mushroom bacon stuffed chicken breast with a side of jasmin curry rice with pigeon peas and pan seared sliced brussel sprouts with tyme and garlic butter sauce.

 

^^haha don't forget the hint of polyurethane in the food.

I want to either do this or buy the ES inserts.
My question is, will the torque mounts from my parts auto 3.0 be different, or can I just drop the whole cradle from that, and do my thang?

 

Hardness, density, shore...... All the same.

J/k

 

Wuut?


All 95-03 are all the same, mine are from a 95.

If you're doing ES mounts, you need an MT front in order for the ES insert to fit the mount chassis.

If you're filling your own, doesn't matter, just gut and fill.

No pics. ..

 

Not ready to cook yet

 

I had to replace my electric/hydraulic mount and dissected it afterwards. If I was going to do an insert of fill it my self, I would go get one for a manual trans and do it. The oil reservoir sticks up in the the opening, but it is some kind of plastic and I suppose a torch would have no problems with it.

 

I'd recommended that too. Being that the elbow grease factor can get bothersome. And they're very cheap from junkyards.

 

Sorry I have an 01 automatic parts car.
I want to take the whole cradle with both torque mounts, clean and paint that whole assembly, press in ES bushings/or fill and swap it with mine.

So the front mount is different if I was to use inserts, and if I want to gut and fill its easier to use a manual mount aswell. Yes?

 

I would pull all that crap out up to where that thin metal ring is. Take a jig saw and cut down through that inner metal ring in 2 or 3 places. Then knock it out with a chisel. Or better yet air chisel. I just bought one and I love that tool. Make sure its locked nice in a vice.

Take a blow torch to the inner metal pipe piece where your bolt goes through and get the goo off. You need to make it super clean or the stuff wont adhere well. Next follow these instructions:

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f94/...mounts-204274/

I did shore 80A on my turbo celica and it is amazing. That in combo with my engine torque damper my engine hardly rocks at all.

I never cooked mine. I let them sit in a hot garage for 3 days and they cured up. You could always mix more hardener too. I used several layers of duct tape and sat them between bricks. If you don't use enough duct tape it will ooze all over. Put them over a oil pan or something so it doesn't go all over your garage floor. For my maxima I am using a manual front mount bracket with energy inserts. But I love the way my customs turned out on the celi.

 

I decided to buy ebay mounts for a manual car front and back. I'll gut and fill them well ahead of time so they are ready for when I drop the sub frame. Thank you to all for your advice.

 

So In a nutshell, scoop up some manual front/rear mounts and poly them. If you have leftovers, poly the passenger torque mount as well. Any recommendation on where to get the 80 rated poly for a good price?

 

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but wanted to consolidate since I've been looking at doing my motor mounts also and had another question.

So I pretty much got everything there is available from NWP for my car, save for the torque link mount, is the NWP torque mount worth the $$? Or just forget it, do motor mounts and that's it?

My friend (owns auto repair) found me a nice set of used motor mounts at junkyard, donor car is an 03 maxima w/ just over 30k miles on it that was rear ended and totaled, engine and everything up front is in perfect shape. Question is, can I use the 03 mounts on my 2000 or is it different due to the 3.5 engine change and mounts being different? Oh and the donor car is MT so these are not auto motor mounts. (Please don't flame me if the question is stupid, I didn't do any research )

And finally, if it's the same and I can use the 2003 mounts on mine, do you guys think it's worth it to buy the used set for $150 or go brand new ones and get something completely different? Also, should I go OEM or aftermarket?

Perhaps I should keep my OEM mounts for now?? car only has 79k miles now and my mounts are very, very decent, not at all in much need of replacement. But still, I feel like doing it will make the car that much better and feeling way newer and fresher, what do you guys think?

 

All mounts from 95-03 are the same. Only the front mount is different from AT to MT. But, if it's a complete mount, the MT mount will fit up front on your AT cross member. If they'rs stock mounts, I'd wait and either fill them or get ES inserts. No use in spending the time putting used mounts on there.

I have both PUR mounts and the ETL, I think they compliment each other well.

 

What NmexMax said. You only need a manual one for the front. As far as shore material and where to buy its in that honda article on how to make it:


http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f94/...mounts-204274/

You buy the polyurethane from mcmaster carr. Wear surgical gloves. That crap is nasty
www.mcmaster-carr.com

 

I posted a link of where to buy the poly. It's about $30.

 

Way back when I did my motor and transmission mounts on my '89 turbo, I also used 80a but got mine from www.Travers.com .....not sure they still carry or price, but definately compare costs.

I bought one pound and it was enough for all four mounts with moderate meat removed from mounts. Basically left enough so that the center rods stayed exactly in place.

You should have all four mounts prepped and one side masked/sealed before mixing your poly. As I recall, there was only about 15-20 minute set time before it would become too thick to poor properly....risk air pockets or being unable to use all the material. Also, keep in mind there is a curing period, I assume its still 24 hours.

If you do all four mounts, I suspect you will not need or benifit from the NWP torque link. I believe knights Wrayth mounts are evidence of this.

 

I would remove all rubber and have cleaned the inner part of the mount super good. I left rubber on my first round and the poly will come off. Id have just metal pieces left and center the steel pipe in the center using the duct tape.

The NWP torque bar link I just installed this weekend and in combo with energy mounts its awesome. Throttle response definitely improved.

 

Very good useful info here, thanks guys. I was actually just checking my mounts last night and noticed that my main electric mount had a very small but noticeable crack in it.

Question is, anyone know of the consequences of having a small crack in the main mount? I'm gonna replace all my mounts soon but should I be worried at all about the crack for now?

 

Just unplug it. Then, it's pretty much just a cracked and deteriorating mount. As opposed to a failing mount that can cause a short circuit.