2000 SE - drivers window problem
2000 SE - drivers window problem
tried reading all the other posts but could not get the answer.
Drivers side window stopped working entirely after many months of operating very slowly. Ordered new window motor from AM Auto Parts. New motor arrived but when I plug into the connector (6 pin) it does not work (key is on and window switch is activated). Also the new one does not work when I apply 12vdc to the solid blue wire and ground the other 12vdc wire. hhhmmmmm...not sure whats up here.....hmmmm.
The old motor is still installed in the door and I noticed there is another plug that is a brownish color that is plugged into it near the solenoid of the window motor. The new motor does not have this connection on it. Any ideas?
Help...I'm lost. lol
Thanks for any feedback.
Drivers side window stopped working entirely after many months of operating very slowly. Ordered new window motor from AM Auto Parts. New motor arrived but when I plug into the connector (6 pin) it does not work (key is on and window switch is activated). Also the new one does not work when I apply 12vdc to the solid blue wire and ground the other 12vdc wire. hhhmmmmm...not sure whats up here.....hmmmm.
The old motor is still installed in the door and I noticed there is another plug that is a brownish color that is plugged into it near the solenoid of the window motor. The new motor does not have this connection on it. Any ideas?
Help...I'm lost. lol
Thanks for any feedback.
I would suggest that you do a voltage check to see if the window switch is sending power to the motor.
The power window motor is a DC motor. By reversing the polarity of the power to the motor, raising & lowering of the window is accomplished.
Measuring voltage at the connector for window switch is easiest as you do not have to pull the door panel off. Pop out the window switch (pry up on the front end) and the connector is easily accessed.
The left front window switch has 2 connectors on it and the wires that go to the motor are in the big connector. Those pin numbers and wire colors are:
pin 1 - solid green
pin 2 - solid blue
pin 1 is in a corner of the connector and pin 2 is (of course) right next to it.
In operation:
window up - pin 1 (green wire) is 12 volts and pin 2 is ground
window down - pin 2 (blue wire) is 12 volts and pin 1 is ground
The power window motor is a DC motor. By reversing the polarity of the power to the motor, raising & lowering of the window is accomplished.
Measuring voltage at the connector for window switch is easiest as you do not have to pull the door panel off. Pop out the window switch (pry up on the front end) and the connector is easily accessed.
The left front window switch has 2 connectors on it and the wires that go to the motor are in the big connector. Those pin numbers and wire colors are:
pin 1 - solid green
pin 2 - solid blue
pin 1 is in a corner of the connector and pin 2 is (of course) right next to it.
In operation:
window up - pin 1 (green wire) is 12 volts and pin 2 is ground
window down - pin 2 (blue wire) is 12 volts and pin 1 is ground
Very good advice ^^^^ get a multimeter and check.
I actually had the exact problem a few months ago on my drivers window. Same exact deal, my window was working real slowly and weak for about a year before it finally died.
I replaced the motor and it worked, but was still weak and slow. Long story short, it died again in a few weeks after the initial fix. Had to replace the whole module. So perhaps you have the same problem, your brand new motor might be all good but the module itself may have crapped out.
Hope I helped, good luck!
I actually had the exact problem a few months ago on my drivers window. Same exact deal, my window was working real slowly and weak for about a year before it finally died.
I replaced the motor and it worked, but was still weak and slow. Long story short, it died again in a few weeks after the initial fix. Had to replace the whole module. So perhaps you have the same problem, your brand new motor might be all good but the module itself may have crapped out.
Hope I helped, good luck!
I would suggest that you do a voltage check to see if the window switch is sending power to the motor.
The power window motor is a DC motor. By reversing the polarity of the power to the motor, raising & lowering of the window is accomplished.
Measuring voltage at the connector for window switch is easiest as you do not have to pull the door panel off. Pop out the window switch (pry up on the front end) and the connector is easily accessed.
The left front window switch has 2 connectors on it and the wires that go to the motor are in the big connector. Those pin numbers and wire colors are:
pin 1 - solid green
pin 2 - solid blue
pin 1 is in a corner of the connector and pin 2 is (of course) right next to it.
In operation:
window up - pin 1 (green wire) is 12 volts and pin 2 is ground
window down - pin 2 (blue wire) is 12 volts and pin 1 is ground
The power window motor is a DC motor. By reversing the polarity of the power to the motor, raising & lowering of the window is accomplished.
Measuring voltage at the connector for window switch is easiest as you do not have to pull the door panel off. Pop out the window switch (pry up on the front end) and the connector is easily accessed.
The left front window switch has 2 connectors on it and the wires that go to the motor are in the big connector. Those pin numbers and wire colors are:
pin 1 - solid green
pin 2 - solid blue
pin 1 is in a corner of the connector and pin 2 is (of course) right next to it.
In operation:
window up - pin 1 (green wire) is 12 volts and pin 2 is ground
window down - pin 2 (blue wire) is 12 volts and pin 1 is ground
In my case, pin-1 and pin-2 were NOT right next to each other. They were on the same row but it skipped the pin in between them (connector has 2 rows with 3 pins in each row). In other words, both pins were in the same row but at opposite ends of the row.
And YES, you were correct, when I attached the negative (12 vdc) to one of the pins and the positive to the other pin....the window went in one direction. When I switched the pos. and neg. voltage to the same pins the motor worked in the opposite direction.
btw, bought the replacement motor from AM Autoparts (online only...no phone # that I could find), part # AM-28189413, $85.50, no tax, free shipping, received in 4-5 days. There was also a part # that had 2 motors and 2 regulators for only $4 more but when I sent an email inquiring about the difference I received a generic return email from them that didn't answer my direct question. The motor I bought worked out great so far.
Thanks for the input. Just wanted to clarify how my exact pin configuration was.......
In my case, pin-1 and pin-2 were NOT right next to each other. They were on the same row but it skipped the pin in between them (connector has 2 rows with 3 pins in each row). In other words, both pins were in the same row but at opposite ends of the row.
And YES, you were correct, when I attached the negative (12 vdc) to one of the pins and the positive to the other pin....the window went in one direction. When I switched the pos. and neg. voltage to the same pins the motor worked in the opposite direction.
btw, bought the replacement motor from AM Autoparts (online only...no phone # that I could find), part # AM-28189413, $85.50, no tax, free shipping, received in 4-5 days. There was also a part # that had 2 motors and 2 regulators for only $4 more but when I sent an email inquiring about the difference I received a generic return email from them that didn't answer my direct question. The motor I bought worked out great so far.
In my case, pin-1 and pin-2 were NOT right next to each other. They were on the same row but it skipped the pin in between them (connector has 2 rows with 3 pins in each row). In other words, both pins were in the same row but at opposite ends of the row.
And YES, you were correct, when I attached the negative (12 vdc) to one of the pins and the positive to the other pin....the window went in one direction. When I switched the pos. and neg. voltage to the same pins the motor worked in the opposite direction.
btw, bought the replacement motor from AM Autoparts (online only...no phone # that I could find), part # AM-28189413, $85.50, no tax, free shipping, received in 4-5 days. There was also a part # that had 2 motors and 2 regulators for only $4 more but when I sent an email inquiring about the difference I received a generic return email from them that didn't answer my direct question. The motor I bought worked out great so far.
You were working with the connector on the motor, which is pins 1 and 3.
I should have realized that you wanted to test the motor out of the car. Like so many things, there's more than one way to do it. I'm used to using the window switch connector because you can check a motor without taking the door apart first, so that's the way I wrote it.
It's good to know that there is someone on the org that can think and figure things out for them self.
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