Battery went dead, now it won't start
09-20-2013, 05:31 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 16
Battery went dead, now it won't start
I've seen several posts about this subject, but haven't really seen an answer particular to my situation. I have a 2002 Maxima that sat for about a month thus the battery going dead. Well, without unhooking the battery placed a battery charger on it charging the battery. Once charged, it cranks but does not start, at all, doesn't even try. It was running fine when parked and the only problem was the battery going dead. I can hear the fuel pump priming up when I turn the key on, I've checked the timing chain, plugs are good. I'm just not sure what else to do, so if anyone has any other suggestions I'd appreciate it.
09-20-2013, 07:24 AM
#2
Security light is probably on solid.
Try to cycle the key on for a second then off for 10 seconds. Do this until the security light goes out. If this doesn't work, you may have to clear the faults (if there are any) out of the ECM with a scan tool.
Another option is disconnecting the battery for a few hours or overnight and trying again by connecting the battery and unlocking the car with the fab.
Of course, this is assuming that the security light is on solid.
Try to cycle the key on for a second then off for 10 seconds. Do this until the security light goes out. If this doesn't work, you may have to clear the faults (if there are any) out of the ECM with a scan tool.
Another option is disconnecting the battery for a few hours or overnight and trying again by connecting the battery and unlocking the car with the fab.
Of course, this is assuming that the security light is on solid.
09-20-2013, 07:48 AM
#3
I drained the battery on my Maxima a few times before due to dashcam. Each time this happened I used jumper cables and it started fine but I know my battery is working
Last edited by george__; 09-20-2013 at 07:50 AM.
09-22-2013, 06:59 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,155
10-05-2013, 02:10 PM
#10
I had a case where the battery charger indicated everything was fine but the battery had an internal short which killed any chance to start. After replacing the battery it ran fine. Have you tested the battery?
10-05-2013, 10:26 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,155
+1
We had a car come in the shop the other day. The lights all turned on bright, battery showed 12.1 volts but the second you tried to start it, it would die. Had an internal short in the battery. Pretty common especially with Interstate batteries. They put the plates very close together for more cranking amps.
10-06-2013, 09:26 PM
#14
For the car to start, 3 things are needed - air, fuel and a spark. You need to find out which one is missing. I'm willing to assume it is getting air so that leaves fuel and spark.
Take off any one of the coil packs. Also take the spark plug out for that cylinder and then plug it into the coil pack. With the wire harness plugged into the coil pack and the spark plug grounded to metal, have someone crank the engine and see if there is a spark happening at the end of the spark plug.
Take off any one of the coil packs. Also take the spark plug out for that cylinder and then plug it into the coil pack. With the wire harness plugged into the coil pack and the spark plug grounded to metal, have someone crank the engine and see if there is a spark happening at the end of the spark plug.
10-08-2013, 07:00 PM
#18
So I put the battery from the Maxima in it and it fired it right up. I ended up taking the battery back to Costco to warranty it out. New one worked great and we sold the car.
10-11-2013, 02:30 PM
#19
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1
I've seen several posts about this subject, but haven't really seen an answer particular to my situation. I have a 2002 Maxima that sat for about a month thus the battery going dead. Well, without unhooking the battery placed a battery charger on it charging the battery. Once charged, it cranks but does not start, at all, doesn't even try. It was running fine when parked and the only problem was the battery going dead. I can hear the fuel pump priming up when I turn the key on, I've checked the timing chain, plugs are good. I'm just not sure what else to do, so if anyone has any other suggestions I'd appreciate it.
10-13-2013, 10:37 PM
#20
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 5
Spark checking
For the car to start, 3 things are needed - air, fuel and a spark. You need to find out which one is missing. I'm willing to assume it is getting air so that leaves fuel and spark.
Take off any one of the coil packs. Also take the spark plug out for that cylinder and then plug it into the coil pack. With the wire harness plugged into the coil pack and the spark plug grounded to metal, have someone crank the engine and see if there is a spark happening at the end of the spark plug.
Take off any one of the coil packs. Also take the spark plug out for that cylinder and then plug it into the coil pack. With the wire harness plugged into the coil pack and the spark plug grounded to metal, have someone crank the engine and see if there is a spark happening at the end of the spark plug.
If you have spark, see if the engine does anything when spraying starting fluid into the intake. The probable best way to get to it is to remove the air filter from its housing. I can't vouch for absence of damage to the MAF, but there is no reason I know of that ether/heptane mixture (starting fluid) would harm it.
Hope this helps the start of diagnosis.
10-22-2013, 07:15 PM
#22
There are many things that could cause the problem. The fusible link under the hood labeled "FL80A MAIN 1", the crankshaft sensor, the camshaft sensor, the ignition relay and more.
Do you have 12 volts on the red wire of the ignition coil connector? This could be another bads fuse, under the hood labeled "ENG CONT 1".
Do you have 12 volts on the red wire of the ignition coil connector? This could be another bads fuse, under the hood labeled "ENG CONT 1".
10-22-2013, 09:54 PM
#23
There are many things that could cause the problem. The fusible link under the hood labeled "FL80A MAIN 1", the crankshaft sensor, the camshaft sensor, the ignition relay and more.
Do you have 12 volts on the red wire of the ignition coil connector? This could be another bads fuse, under the hood labeled "ENG CONT 1".
Do you have 12 volts on the red wire of the ignition coil connector? This could be another bads fuse, under the hood labeled "ENG CONT 1".
10-24-2013, 04:45 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 16
I've even went as far as removing the ECU and opening it up to find nothing apparently wrong/burnt, after reading another thread where someone had an ECU go bad after learning the IAC motor had locked up, only to find it was the active motor mounts creating the original issue.
10-24-2013, 04:50 PM
#27
if you have an FSM, follow the no start checklist. If you dont have an FSM, start with getting an FSM and then follow the no start checklist
I believe there is a fuse in the fuse box inside the cabin, I would check on that first.
Do you get 12V to the coils with the ignition on?
I believe there is a fuse in the fuse box inside the cabin, I would check on that first.
Do you get 12V to the coils with the ignition on?
Last edited by Gemner; 10-24-2013 at 04:53 PM.
10-26-2013, 12:16 PM
#30
Well you need to get the codes read. Find a friend that has one. Find someone with the Torque App for their smart phone and the OBDII Bluetooth thing for it. You need to read the codes, that is a VITAL part of diagnosing this problem. Without reading codes you are just shooting fish in the dark.
10-26-2013, 12:52 PM
#31
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 16
Someone else had asked if it was receiving 12vdc to the coil packs and indeed it is. I also have a Sentra and swapped the coil packs and plugs to it and they do spark in it. I'll ask around and see if anyone has a code reader.
10-28-2013, 07:34 AM
#32
1) Sit in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
3) Rapidly depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times in less than 3 seconds.
4) Wait 7 seconds. Push the pedal all the way down for ten seconds until the SES light flashes.
5) Release the pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
The SES light either flashes quickly or slowly, 10 slow blinks basically means prepare to read the code, then it will blink quickly to read out the first number of the code, pause, then begin blinking quickly to read out the next number (this happens up to 4 times), 10 quick blinks is a 0.
Its pretty obvious once you get it going what the flashes mean.
(I cant believe it took 2 days for someone to tell you that, you slacking maxima.org)
10-28-2013, 06:55 PM
#34
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 16
you can read the codes out without a code reader
1) Sit in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
3) Rapidly depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times in less than 3 seconds.
4) Wait 7 seconds. Push the pedal all the way down for ten seconds until the SES light flashes.
5) Release the pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
The SES light either flashes quickly or slowly, 10 slow blinks basically means prepare to read the code, then it will blink quickly to read out the first number of the code, pause, then begin blinking quickly to read out the next number (this happens up to 4 times), 10 quick blinks is a 0.
Its pretty obvious once you get it going what the flashes mean.
(I cant believe it took 2 days for someone to tell you that, you slacking maxima.org)
1) Sit in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
3) Rapidly depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times in less than 3 seconds.
4) Wait 7 seconds. Push the pedal all the way down for ten seconds until the SES light flashes.
5) Release the pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
The SES light either flashes quickly or slowly, 10 slow blinks basically means prepare to read the code, then it will blink quickly to read out the first number of the code, pause, then begin blinking quickly to read out the next number (this happens up to 4 times), 10 quick blinks is a 0.
Its pretty obvious once you get it going what the flashes mean.
(I cant believe it took 2 days for someone to tell you that, you slacking maxima.org)
01-19-2014, 11:33 AM
#40
Did you replace the battery yet?? Another thing to check is to see if the cylinders were flooded after cranking so much and depressing the accelerator so try pulling the plugs and see if they're wet. If so dry them up and pull the fuel pump relay and crank it a few times to get excess gas out of the cylinders then put the relay back, plugs back and crank it over but it sounds like the battery is pooched if the car started and ran fine before it sat i don't see why it would be a sensor.