Clunking suspension
#1
Clunking suspension
Cant tell which side the clunking is coming from but its definitely in the front
No handling issues..just a clunk when I hit small bumps. Sounds louder since its been cold?
How would I go about diagnosing the issue after I put it on stands?
No handling issues..just a clunk when I hit small bumps. Sounds louder since its been cold?
How would I go about diagnosing the issue after I put it on stands?
#2
First step is to check out the front stabilizer end links since they are the cheapest and easiest to replace. They are connected to the sway bar and are usually the weakest link in the front suspension on all Nissans and Toyotas. Jack up the front of the car on one side and use a jack stand to support it. Then, use your floor jack and slowly jack up the front A arm until you relieve the tension on the end link attached to the sway bar. see if you can move the end link around (checking fro excessive play) if there is, then replace both sides. You will probably have to cut them of if they haven't been removed in a long time since the nut will simply keep turning and it will not loosen up. Be careful that you don't cut the A arm bracket or sway bar.
If you still have clunking, then your next step is to replace the front strut mounts and bearings. For that, you have to completely remove the front struts and if you are going that far, you need to check the struts for leakage or excessive age. No sense putting a new set of strut mounts on an dold set of struts, getting it all back together and then having to disassemble everything all over again to do the job twice after you find out your struts are on their last leg.
Hope that helps.
Ted
If you still have clunking, then your next step is to replace the front strut mounts and bearings. For that, you have to completely remove the front struts and if you are going that far, you need to check the struts for leakage or excessive age. No sense putting a new set of strut mounts on an dold set of struts, getting it all back together and then having to disassemble everything all over again to do the job twice after you find out your struts are on their last leg.
Hope that helps.
Ted
#4
First step is to check out the front stabilizer end links since they are the cheapest and easiest to replace. They are connected to the sway bar and are usually the weakest link in the front suspension on all Nissans and Toyotas. Jack up the front of the car on one side and use a jack stand to support it. Then, use your floor jack and slowly jack up the front A arm until you relieve the tension on the end link attached to the sway bar. see if you can move the end link around (checking fro excessive play) if there is, then replace both sides. You will probably have to cut them of if they haven't been removed in a long time since the nut will simply keep turning and it will not loosen up. Be careful that you don't cut the A arm bracket or sway bar.
If you still have clunking, then your next step is to replace the front strut mounts and bearings. For that, you have to completely remove the front struts and if you are going that far, you need to check the struts for leakage or excessive age. No sense putting a new set of strut mounts on an dold set of struts, getting it all back together and then having to disassemble everything all over again to do the job twice after you find out your struts are on their last leg.
Hope that helps.
Ted
If you still have clunking, then your next step is to replace the front strut mounts and bearings. For that, you have to completely remove the front struts and if you are going that far, you need to check the struts for leakage or excessive age. No sense putting a new set of strut mounts on an dold set of struts, getting it all back together and then having to disassemble everything all over again to do the job twice after you find out your struts are on their last leg.
Hope that helps.
Ted
#6
Though post #2 is helpful, I'd first try to replicate the noise with the car on the ground. You'll be more successful than with the wheels off.
Find a friend. Have someone push up and down, left to right, and side to side on the fender. Get under the car and LOOK around. Then look around under the hood while doing the same thing. Clunks are visible.
If passenger side, I'd immediately target the passenger side motor mount - aka transverse mount, rather than the strut mounts. A hard clunk isn't strut mounts very often.
Find a friend. Have someone push up and down, left to right, and side to side on the fender. Get under the car and LOOK around. Then look around under the hood while doing the same thing. Clunks are visible.
If passenger side, I'd immediately target the passenger side motor mount - aka transverse mount, rather than the strut mounts. A hard clunk isn't strut mounts very often.
Last edited by djfrestyl; 12-12-2013 at 05:35 AM.
#7
Though post #2 is helpful, I'd first try to replicate the noise with the car on the ground. You'll be more successful than with the wheels off.
Find a friend. Have someone push up and down, left to right, and side to side on the fender. Get under the car and LOOK around. Then look around under the hood while doing the same thing. Clunks are visible.
If passenger side, I'd immediately target the passenger side motor mount - aka transverse mount, rather than the strut mounts. A hard clunk isn't strut mounts very often.
Find a friend. Have someone push up and down, left to right, and side to side on the fender. Get under the car and LOOK around. Then look around under the hood while doing the same thing. Clunks are visible.
If passenger side, I'd immediately target the passenger side motor mount - aka transverse mount, rather than the strut mounts. A hard clunk isn't strut mounts very often.
Its always really bad pulling in and out of the driveway. But it sometimes sounds just as bad going over somewhat cracked pavement. Sometimes its barely audible when I travel short distances, and sometimes its VERY audible. I dont know if thats helpful.. but Im just trying to pinpoint the most probables do my lovely 'jack stands' that make me feel oh so safe (not).
#9
Really? I noticed the bouncing hood when I bought the car and after research I found out its a common problem. I loosened the bolts on the latch and push down on the mechanism as hard as I could and tightened it. Didnt do a lot, but it helped! Then I bought rubber stops and placed them around the hood and it went away! So cheap and so simple, give it a shot!
#10
Unfortunately, I cant replicate the noise on the ground. I nearly dent the fender/ hood because I was trying to push down so hard yet I still couldnt get the noise to occur.
Its always really bad pulling in and out of the driveway. But it sometimes sounds just as bad going over somewhat cracked pavement. Sometimes its barely audible when I travel short distances, and sometimes its VERY audible. I dont know if thats helpful.. but Im just trying to pinpoint the most probables do my lovely 'jack stands' that make me feel oh so safe (not).
Its always really bad pulling in and out of the driveway. But it sometimes sounds just as bad going over somewhat cracked pavement. Sometimes its barely audible when I travel short distances, and sometimes its VERY audible. I dont know if thats helpful.. but Im just trying to pinpoint the most probables do my lovely 'jack stands' that make me feel oh so safe (not).
#14
#15
I agree. Doesn't sound like a hard clunk but the typical sound struts make when they're just very very old.
Time to plan an upgrade.
Start reading:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html
Time to plan an upgrade.
Start reading:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html
#16
I agree. Doesn't sound like a hard clunk but the typical sound struts make when they're just very very old.
Time to plan an upgrade.
Start reading:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html
Time to plan an upgrade.
Start reading:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html
#17
If you can swing it, all 4. Parts will cost you roughly $550 to do it right (front and rear)
If you prefer to break it up, do both rears, not just one. Parts will cost you roughly $200-$250.
If you prefer to break it up, do both rears, not just one. Parts will cost you roughly $200-$250.
#18
Is it a diy project? I know those springs can be extremely dangerous but if I just change the whole thing out I shouldnt have any issues right?
#19
Depends on skillset. Dangerous only if you don't know what you're doing.
I'm partial to separate springs / struts as the quality of the parts is better. But if you do go and get full assemblies "quick struts" from Monroe, then yes it's easier to swap the entire assembly.
I'm partial to separate springs / struts as the quality of the parts is better. But if you do go and get full assemblies "quick struts" from Monroe, then yes it's easier to swap the entire assembly.
#20
Depends on skillset. Dangerous only if you don't know what you're doing.
I'm partial to separate springs / struts as the quality of the parts is better. But if you do go and get full assemblies "quick struts" from Monroe, then yes it's easier to swap the entire assembly.
I'm partial to separate springs / struts as the quality of the parts is better. But if you do go and get full assemblies "quick struts" from Monroe, then yes it's easier to swap the entire assembly.
#23
tfvesquire gave you a very good reply to your issue. Swaybar links are a common thing that causes that clunking noise your experiencing over the small bumps. I'd definately recomend taking his advise to change those first seeing they're probably your most inexpensive part of your sespension you should try that before going crazy and changing your springs and struts etc. besides if it is your swaybar links changing your springs and struts etc. isn't going to get rid of your noise and it sounds like it would be your swaybar links as per your video but if you really want to change your springs, struts and mounts etc. Monroe makes a complete assembly which makes it simple to swap rather than buying your components separate and worrying about compressing your springs but most definately start with your swaybar links!
#24
Doing suspension on your own isn't that hard. You have to climb into your trunk though and since it is the very first time everything was seized
If you have to assemble the struts then go rent a spring compressor for FREE from a auto shop...
Impact wrench is a good idea for this task
here is a guide made by someone with all the needed info and proper torque specs!
http://www.shiftice.com/strut_install.html
another piece of useful info
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html
If you have to assemble the struts then go rent a spring compressor for FREE from a auto shop...
Impact wrench is a good idea for this task
here is a guide made by someone with all the needed info and proper torque specs!
http://www.shiftice.com/strut_install.html
another piece of useful info
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html
Last edited by george__; 12-13-2013 at 07:14 PM.
#25
tfvesquire gave you a very good reply to your issue. Swaybar links are a common thing that causes that clunking noise your experiencing over the small bumps. I'd definately recomend taking his advise to change those first seeing they're probably your most inexpensive part of your sespension you should try that before going crazy and changing your springs and struts etc. besides if it is your swaybar links changing your springs and struts etc. isn't going to get rid of your noise and it sounds like it would be your swaybar links as per your video but if you really want to change your springs, struts and mounts etc. Monroe makes a complete assembly which makes it simple to swap rather than buying your components separate and worrying about compressing your springs but most definately start with your swaybar links!
#26
Doing suspension on your own isn't that hard. You have to climb into your trunk though and since it is the very first time everything was seized
If you have to assemble the struts then go rent a spring compressor for FREE from a auto shop...
Impact wrench is a good idea for this task
here is a guide made by someone with all the needed info and proper torque specs!
http://www.shiftice.com/strut_install.html
another piece of useful info
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html
If you have to assemble the struts then go rent a spring compressor for FREE from a auto shop...
Impact wrench is a good idea for this task
here is a guide made by someone with all the needed info and proper torque specs!
http://www.shiftice.com/strut_install.html
another piece of useful info
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html
#27
Still havent had a chance to get the car lifted. . But assuming I need new shocks/ struts what is my cheapest option?
Is it cheaper to get quick struts that are oem on all 4?
Or is it cheaper to buy a set of lowering springs and buy 4 struts and pay a place to put them together..?
I ve also noticed the rear is saggy..but ive also heard that the sag is supposed to be there due to how the wheel wells were built?
If its normal id probably only get a pair for the front.. would a set of lowering springs on the front with oem be problematic?
I wouldnt lower it a lot . No more than a couple inches.. will this affect driving on snow/ice?
Thanks in advance
Is it cheaper to get quick struts that are oem on all 4?
Or is it cheaper to buy a set of lowering springs and buy 4 struts and pay a place to put them together..?
I ve also noticed the rear is saggy..but ive also heard that the sag is supposed to be there due to how the wheel wells were built?
If its normal id probably only get a pair for the front.. would a set of lowering springs on the front with oem be problematic?
I wouldnt lower it a lot . No more than a couple inches.. will this affect driving on snow/ice?
Thanks in advance
#29
Still havent had a chance to get the car lifted. . But assuming I need new shocks/ struts what is my cheapest option?
Is it cheaper to get quick struts that are oem on all 4?
Or is it cheaper to buy a set of lowering springs and buy 4 struts and pay a place to put them together..?
I ve also noticed the rear is saggy..but ive also heard that the sag is supposed to be there due to how the wheel wells were built?
If its normal id probably only get a pair for the front.. would a set of lowering springs on the front with oem be problematic?
I wouldnt lower it a lot . No more than a couple inches.. will this affect driving on snow/ice?
Thanks in advance
Is it cheaper to get quick struts that are oem on all 4?
Or is it cheaper to buy a set of lowering springs and buy 4 struts and pay a place to put them together..?
I ve also noticed the rear is saggy..but ive also heard that the sag is supposed to be there due to how the wheel wells were built?
If its normal id probably only get a pair for the front.. would a set of lowering springs on the front with oem be problematic?
I wouldnt lower it a lot . No more than a couple inches.. will this affect driving on snow/ice?
Thanks in advance
#30
It shouldn't be problematic at all you would actually have better handling but if your complaining about bumps now you may not want to lower it because it will be a bumpier ride and you will have to compromize some comfort for better handling and whether their oem or aftermarket buying your parts seperate will most definately be more expensive because it's not just a matter of springs and struts you will also need to get upper strut mount bearings along with dust boots unless you intend to use your old ones? If changing out all your springs and struts is really what you want to do and keep your stock level of comfort then the monroe quickstruts would be the way to go aswell as cheaper but if you just want to just fix your current problem and save alot of money then take the advice of starting with your swaybar links. Like the saying goes if it's not broken why fix it? but if you want a better upgrade then go for it swap out all your suspension.
#31
Still havent had a chance to get the car lifted. . But assuming I need new shocks/ struts what is my cheapest option?
Is it cheaper to get quick struts that are oem on all 4?
Or is it cheaper to buy a set of lowering springs and buy 4 struts and pay a place to put them together..?
I ve also noticed the rear is saggy..but ive also heard that the sag is supposed to be there due to how the wheel wells were built?
If its normal id probably only get a pair for the front.. would a set of lowering springs on the front with oem be problematic?
I wouldnt lower it a lot . No more than a couple inches.. will this affect driving on snow/ice?
Thanks in advance
Is it cheaper to get quick struts that are oem on all 4?
Or is it cheaper to buy a set of lowering springs and buy 4 struts and pay a place to put them together..?
I ve also noticed the rear is saggy..but ive also heard that the sag is supposed to be there due to how the wheel wells were built?
If its normal id probably only get a pair for the front.. would a set of lowering springs on the front with oem be problematic?
I wouldnt lower it a lot . No more than a couple inches.. will this affect driving on snow/ice?
Thanks in advance
Same questions have been answered quite a few times.
#32
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html
Same questions have been answered quite a few times.
#33
Once you know which side, I would check things in the following order:
1. Sway bar links,
2. Engine mount (the one on Passenger side in particular is known to cause problems),
3. Sway bar bushings (can be a problem in snow country, but less so in California, Nevada, etc.),
4. Struts, incl. strut mounts,
5. Ball joints and/or LACs (Lower Control Arms),
6. CVs/Axles.
#34
Thank you also^
Finally got her up in the air and looked around on either side. Everything was perfect on either side EXCEPT the sway bar end link on the left side. Not a lot of play, but a little bit. will be going to autozone sometime this weekend to get the new one. Fingers crossed!
Finally got her up in the air and looked around on either side. Everything was perfect on either side EXCEPT the sway bar end link on the left side. Not a lot of play, but a little bit. will be going to autozone sometime this weekend to get the new one. Fingers crossed!
#36
#37
You plan on replacing one regardless if it fixes it or not. Not like you're going to 'test' with a new one then reinstall the old one.
So given that, do both. You WILL feel a difference with one new one and one old one.
So given that, do both. You WILL feel a difference with one new one and one old one.
#38
No need for that 'smart' comment
#40
Many of us suggested you start with the swaybar links and it's not much of a suprise that was your issue and for the one you aren't changing it's probably not far behind the bad one so for the cost of them probably best to do both at once and save yourself the headache later.