Alternator question!
#1
Alternator question!
Hello fellas! I have replaced my alternator a month ago on the Maxi due to low voltage. It ran beautifully with proper voltage after the install. So last night I noticed the dash lights slightly dimming when coming to a light.(like i have before the alternator went) I go home to check the voltage with the AC/lights/radio all on and it reads 12.6 volts. The battery is from Apr 2010. and I checked the voltage of the battery before starting it this morning and it read 12.3v.
When starting the car under load this morning the voltage went from 14.6v to about 14.1 after 25 minutes of idling. After driving around the block the voltage is at 12.7 under load. Could this be a my battery? Belts are tight, terminals are tight, there is some corrosion around the battery tie down but not the terminals.
I did note that with everything else on and the AC OFF, the voltage goes to 13.9. What could this be? Can it be my alternator again? It is a brand new unit not reman from MPA part # 15844N. Any feedback is welcomed.
Thanks guys
When starting the car under load this morning the voltage went from 14.6v to about 14.1 after 25 minutes of idling. After driving around the block the voltage is at 12.7 under load. Could this be a my battery? Belts are tight, terminals are tight, there is some corrosion around the battery tie down but not the terminals.
I did note that with everything else on and the AC OFF, the voltage goes to 13.9. What could this be? Can it be my alternator again? It is a brand new unit not reman from MPA part # 15844N. Any feedback is welcomed.
Thanks guys
#3
Prophecy99 has it been dimming since the install? and which alternator did you purchase because after installing mine it was good for a month, Im starting to think maybe the cold weather is causing a weak battery? I really dont want to re-install the alternator again, it was a PITA.
#5
What's your batteries CCA (cold cranking amp)? Is the battery "big" enough to support our car, or is it a small Honda Civic battery? Size (CA&CCA) does matter in this instance. Also, if you have a spare battery, or a battery from another car, just swap them, it's fairly "quick" and can tell you if it is the battery or not.
#6
its the correct battery for the car, ive always purchased the same group size battery. its like 24F or something like that i cant remember.
UPDATE: so with the headlights, fogs, and blinkers on and the car OFF. the battery voltage reads 11.4v...is this normal?
UPDATE: so with the headlights, fogs, and blinkers on and the car OFF. the battery voltage reads 11.4v...is this normal?
#7
Group 24 battery - you might also want to test your health of your battery, not just the volts. I see it almost every day where somebody says but I have over 12 volts... yes but that doesn't mean your battery is good. You need a more advanced battery tester than a volt meter. One that gives you CCA, Voltage, charge and state of health. Most shops and parts place will have one. Then you will know for sure if it your battery. Or just replace and see if it fixes your problem.
#8
i must say this, my battery was pretty much toasted from the alternator going on me (driving around a cpl days with the alternator going). So when the shop replaced my alternator they had to charge my battery overnight. So I'm thining the battery has been affected even after being charged overnight.
Long story short, I am thinking we should replace both of our batteries.
Long story short, I am thinking we should replace both of our batteries.
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