Ok to start off with bought my first Max(2000). My bro was happy as cats on crack. Ok when I start it up in the morning I will have to sit and what for the motor to get up to temp or she will just die. Starts right back up no prob. I have to keep her idling at about 2500 or she will die. New plugs, new coils, no codes. Please help. Where should I start looking?

 

Idle Air Control Valve? How long have you had it for? Maybe the person reset the CEL and sold it to you.


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I went through this a few months ago on my 5.5 2002 SE. Swapped out the EGR, idle air sensor, a coil pack, new spark plugs, new valve cover gaskets, new vacuum line hoses etc. Cold Starts in cold weather were still rough. Car started fine but wouldn't hold idle if it was below 46 degrees outside, I had to rev plenty until warm then was mostly driveable the rest of the day with an occasional stall.

I finally decided to replace the fuel pump and filter thinking maybe I had low fuel pressure. Sure enough this fixed the problem.


You can buy a pump and filter as components on ebay and replace them for about $50 total. It takes some careful lego-jenga skills to disassamble and reassemble the pump correctly, but it's not all that hard. check youtube for some vids.

Do not let the gasket O-ring for the fuel pump to tank seal fall in the tank, it will deform the ring and won't fit (trust me). the pickup sock that came with my new pump didn't fit the casing so I reused the old one which was in good shape. access to the fuel pump is really simple on my 2002.

*Before disconnecting fuel line/electrics from the pump be sure to open gas fuel filler cap, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank engine to depressurize the line or excess fuel will push up from the tank through the filter and make a mess and stink in the car (trust me).

 

Im his brother, and yes, I bought him a Maxima at an unreal price. The previous plugs and coils cleared the codes, but he does have a ridiculously rough idle. So, fuel pump next up. I hope its going to be the same as the 3.5. I would really like it to be that simple. He'd have a 2000 Maxima GLE with about 3k total in the thing. As, any recommendations with that 3.0 engine sitting at 167k?

 

My 2000 would start up ok first start in the cold but when I started to drive it it
would sputter and kinda die until warm. It was a the MAF. Don't know if that is sorta you're problem but hope that helps.

Sometimes mine would turn on and immediately shut off and that was probably a leaky intake manifold since I cleaned the throttle and idle control valve at the same time.
It's probably going to be something simple and common.

 

See, thats what I was thinking first off. MAF are known for issues. Not sure what to check next, as the MAF has been 'cleaned' by our mechanic...

 

I am having this issue as well and am very interested in a fix. No codes. replaced iac, maf, coils, plugs had idle relearn, cpu reset. Heard it could be bad upper intake gasket. Last thing I will try, then its to the junk yard...

 

I cleaned and ultimately replaced my MAF. It improved some issues, but never eliminated my idle issue.

 

^btw, when I changed the intake manifold gaskets the upper o-ring gasket was leaking.
you can see the dried intake oil on both sides.

 

Which one is the O-ring? I replaced the upper intake gasket and never saw an o-ring gasket.

 

Air leak or too much RTV and causing the injector interference!

 

Has anybody figured out a solution for this? I have new coils, new plugs, serviced injectors, new fuel pump, new timing chain and tensioner. Next is the fuel filter.

I have the NWP torque link bracket. I disconnected and reconnected that with no change in idle. Pretty sure my mounts are okay, and I know one is brand new. Any ideas??

 

I had this same issue, rough idle on morning start, even when 60 degrees outside. Had full tune up, new coils, even cleaned the throttle body with CRC. ECM scanner shows everything in spec, even MAF. Still rough idles and no codes. Assuming temp was indeed a factor, I checked the stock intake, super loose, and not air tight on links from the scoop to throttle body. The air temp sensor may not really be reporting the correct temp either because air really isn't flowing through the scoop -- instead its reading temp of the engine heat on the intake. Once the car is warmed up no issues. Cheap fix was to seal the intake, and get a new MAF.



Thermal tape from home depot, wrapped on the leaky areas all the way to the throttle body. To re-install as one unit, drop the intake in, and do a final taping around the tube to the lower chamber. A bit tight, but with some jiggling it slides right in. While the intake is out, replace the PCV if you can, just an extra 8 bucks from Napa. Total cost, 14 with PCV.

EDIT: I used foam door seal tape to help air-tight the connection to the air filter chamber

Car starts and idles great below Zero, all air comes from forward scoop. I think the Max is really finicky about intake air temps. Hope this helps anyone

However, check the MAF too, if no filament, must replace, only 50 bucks:



REPI316701 Mass Air Flow Sensor
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...EPI316701.html


Note: Once early AM when temps went to sub zero I scanned P0171 while driving to work, but the code disappeared on its own, and never came back. May be related, not sure, its the only code my Max has ever thrown and was a few days before I fixed the rough idle problem.