5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

clogged cats question

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Old 04-15-2014, 04:42 PM
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Tsuiso with my Japanese Friend! - YouTube

Look at these sick fks

But anyways I been on this site for about a month everyday.I need to rest my mind. I got a lot of answers from you guys. And I got plenty to do to my car. I appreciate all ur help. I learned a lot . This site is pretty dope. Keep up the good work .il be back when its time to do suspension. Maybe even brakes.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 04-16-2014 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:59 PM
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^
Stupid FWD
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:14 PM
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Gutting the precats will not give you any kind of overbearing rasp. You will probably be the only person that would ever notice that there is any extra rasp. Especially if you have the Megan catback.
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by george__
^ Stupid George(ME)
We already know!
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dfj240
Gutting the precats will not give you any kind of overbearing rasp. You will probably be the only person that would ever notice that there is any extra rasp. Especially if you have the Megan catback.
Werd. Gutting the precats won't change rasp much, if anything at all. It may increase drone though.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TallTom
Werd. Gutting the precats won't change rasp much, if anything at all. It may increase drone though.
This is true, but the Maxima has decent enough insulation that even that isn't too bad. Long story short, it definitely will not sound anything like a bumblebee in a coke can.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by dfj240
OK, my apologies for not being completely clear on my last post.

VQ30DE (95-01) - Fed Spec cars have one precat built into the Y-Pipe. Somebody please confirm that it is the rear bank (Bank 1). Cali spec cars have separate precats on both banks.
No.

FED spec have both precats integrated as part of the Y pipe. Aftermarket Y pipe eliminates both precats.


FED SPEC: OEM on right (with both precats) and aftermarket on left





CALI spec has ONE precat as part of the Y (bank 1) and one attached to headers of car. Aftermarket Y eliminates one precat (the one integrated into the Y)


OEM in front, aftermarket in rear. Note the front bend in the fed that is not in the Cali...this is where the pipe connects to the precat in the Cali cars.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
No.

FED spec have both precats integrated as part of the Y pipe. Aftermarket Y pipe eliminates both precats.


FED SPEC: OEM on right (with both precats) and aftermarket on left





CALI spec has ONE precat as part of the Y (bank 1) and one attached to headers of car. Aftermarket Y eliminates one precat (the one integrated into the Y)


OEM in front, aftermarket in rear. Note the front bend in the fed that is not in the Cali...this is where the pipe connects to the precat in the Cali cars.
Corrected I stand. Thank you for clarification on that.
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Old 04-16-2014, 04:14 PM
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So glad I ran into this thread. I hate that damn 0420 code. Lookin for a place to gut my cats. Do you need a lift or can you really do this in the ol' driveway?
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:38 AM
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http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ht=gutted+cats

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Old 04-17-2014, 07:12 PM
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You da BEST!!
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:05 AM
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Sorry to beat a dead horse guys, but I have a 02' 6-spd that I am wanting to gut the pre-cats/add anti-foulers to.

I talked to a guy who had previously worked at Nissan for 9 years, before he opened his own exhaust shop in NC. I was telling him what I wanted to do and he said that gutting the pre-cats and adding anti-foulers would fool the computer for a couple months, but it would eventually short out the computer - or fry it.

So I wanted to ask you guys how your cars have been holding up since you gutted the pre-cats? Is everything holding up good, or is the car giving you problems??

Any comments would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:16 AM
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I don't see how that could be true. The O2 sensors are sending a signal, pass or fail. Throw up a code. If you gut the cat, the shell should be cooler because the exhaust gasses pass right by instead of passing through red hot catalyst. I don't see how anything could melt or fry.

Unless using the nonfouler/extender on the rear O2 sensor causes the wires to come in contact with something hot. Or become exposed and get shorted by road debris. But even then I would expect a code or a blown fuse. Not much more.
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by NISSMAX02
Sorry to beat a dead horse guys, but I have a 02' 6-spd that I am wanting to gut the pre-cats/add anti-foulers to.

I talked to a guy who had previously worked at Nissan for 9 years, before he opened his own exhaust shop in NC. I was telling him what I wanted to do and he said that gutting the pre-cats and adding anti-foulers would fool the computer for a couple months, but it would eventually short out the computer - or fry it.

So I wanted to ask you guys how your cars have been holding up since you gutted the pre-cats? Is everything holding up good, or is the car giving you problems??

Any comments would be greatly appreciated!
not at all man, it's pretty freaking legit !! i have had mine for 3-4 years.....no issues what so ever.

that's too much of a broad statement, i think what he meant is your messing with the integrity of things and there's no guarantee once you commit , but eh... its been workin fine for now, fingers crossed !!!! had shops even work on things around where i spliced in the O2 sim (under engine cover to the right bot corner) and probably have had to move the senor around and what not too, i thought about it after and was like ok well they must of seen it or taken notice to not mess it up too much, because its still workin like a charm... fingers crossed knock on wood.
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Old 12-11-2017, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rodent_infested_03
I don't see how that could be true. The O2 sensors are sending a signal, pass or fail. Throw up a code. If you gut the cat, the shell should be cooler because the exhaust gasses pass right by instead of passing through red hot catalyst. I don't see how anything could melt or fry.

Unless using the nonfouler/extender on the rear O2 sensor causes the wires to come in contact with something hot. Or become exposed and get shorted by road debris. But even then I would expect a code or a blown fuse. Not much more.
I agree. I just don’t see how it could fry the computer when, like you said, they are just there to send signals of Pass/Fail. Maybe he was thinking of worst case scenario(s), but I’m not going to worry too much on it. Thanks man.
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Old 12-11-2017, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
not at all man, it's pretty freaking legit !! i have had mine for 3-4 years.....no issues what so ever.

that's too much of a broad statement, i think what he meant is your messing with the integrity of things and there's no guarantee once you commit , but eh... its been workin fine for now, fingers crossed !!!! had shops even work on things around where i spliced in the O2 sim (under engine cover to the right bot corner) and probably have had to move the senor around and what not too, i thought about it after and was like ok well they must of seen it or taken notice to not mess it up too much, because its still workin like a charm... fingers crossed knock on wood.

That’s good to hear and it is a very broad statement!

I only called the guy to see if he’d just replace all the bolts (top & bottom), bc I’m not sure what to use to break those things loose. They are so rusted, it looks like they were welded together. I tried using a cut-off wheel, but didn’t have much luck. I think I saw where somebody had used a sawzall to get the bolts off, so I may go that route.

Thanks for the reply man!
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Old 03-08-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
not at all man, it's pretty freaking legit !! i have had mine for 3-4 years.....no issues what so ever.

that's too much of a broad statement, i think what he meant is your messing with the integrity of things and there's no guarantee once you commit , but eh... its been workin fine for now, fingers crossed !!!! had shops even work on things around where i spliced in the O2 sim (under engine cover to the right bot corner) and probably have had to move the senor around and what not too, i thought about it after and was like ok well they must of seen it or taken notice to not mess it up too much, because its still workin like a charm... fingers crossed knock on wood.

As far as the exhaust noise goes....I understand that it will be a little louder and have a different tone, but is it loud all the time or just at WOT? I guess the main thing, is will it be much of a difference, or a big difference at idle and crusing speeds? I’m probably just going to tell the guy to get er done, bc I just don’t have time to do it on my own.

Last edited by NISSMAX02; 03-08-2018 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 03-13-2018, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by NISSMAX02



As far as the exhaust noise goes....I understand that it will be a little louder and have a different tone, but is it loud all the time or just at WOT? I guess the main thing, is will it be much of a difference, or a big difference at idle and crusing speeds? I’m probably just going to tell the guy to get er done, bc I just don’t have time to do it on my own.
its not loud at all, keep in mind i have a stock muffler. the tone is there but thats it, its not loud at any point, idle, WOT, etc etc.

i hate loud obnoxious mufflers.
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Old 03-14-2018, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
its not loud at all, keep in mind i have a stock muffler. the tone is there but thats it, its not loud at any point, idle, WOT, etc etc.

i hate loud obnoxious mufflers.
That’s awesome, because I’m not a big fan of loud exhaust either - mine is all stock too. I’m going to try the spark plug anti-foulers bc I can’t find anything online for the 02 sims. Preciate the replies man - very helpful!!
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Old 03-14-2018, 01:19 PM
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i kinda wish i did the extenders as well, it seems more solid to me than hacking wires and relying on a computer chip .
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Old 03-16-2018, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
i kinda wish i did the extenders as well, it seems more solid to me than hacking wires and relying on a computer chip .
Yeah, that’s what I was thinking too. After everything I’ve seen online and on here, it looks like this J-style extender by Vibrant is the way to go. It’s too bad they are on backorder. Maybe I can find it somewhere else.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vibrant-...iABEgL61vD_BwE
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