WTF?

Ok, here's the quick and dirty.....


Son lost the keys, so I ordered 2 new fobs, and keys off Amazon. I've used them before ad they work great, program them myself. The fobs that is.


Next, locksmith comes to the house, says my keys are no good, and makes me one of his keys. Chipped, I guess, because the car started up just fine after he was done, cost me 140.00 Yipeeeee.....I guess.


Drive to the corner store, and on the way back, the car just dies, spins over, but wont start. Roll to a stop, walk home, grab the trailer and the truck, winch it up and head home. Get home, and the sleuthing begins. HMMMM....fuel pump isn't humming. Pull the pump assembly out, and take the pump from it. Hook the fuel pump up and it spins just fine. So, pump is not the problem, presumably. I put my test light into the pump wiring harness, and no 12v when the key is cycled. HMMM......Fuses, check, relay, check, everything checks out, but pump wont pump. Bump it with starting fluid, and it starts briefly. Has to be fuel related.


Now, I'm thinking about the generic key I had made. Is it possible that the key messed up? Does that happen?


Also, no security light. NADA....nothing. Not when the car is locked, unlocked, cranking, nothing. AND, can't pull codes, scanner says ERROR when I try to pull the codes. Also, the Trans light flashed when I try to start it, flashes like 15-16 times, then stops. Whatever that means.


Would appreciate some new ideas.....I figure I've covered the basics...


Does the NATS cut the fuel pump?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The fuel pump is probably working normal. It runs for about 2 seconds when you first turn the key on, but then shuts off if the engine isn't running, more specifically if the ECU doesn't get any pulses from the crankshaft flywheel sensor.

I would start with the crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor.

WTF?

Thanks for the reply, but the fuel pump isn't getting signal at all. Never primes, nada. Not even the priming pulse....puter isn't telling it to.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The NATS led not blinking when the ignition switch is off is not right. Maybe something is wrong with NATS. Nissan does not release very much info on NATS. I don't know if it kills the fuel pump or won't fire the injectors. If you want, start reading about NATS on page 356 in this link.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/EL.pdf

If the new key worked at first, I don't think the key is the problem

And the OBD reader problem is also not right. Has the OBD reader ever worked on this car? There is a fuse that supplies 12 volts to the OBD connector that the reader is supposed to check. It is either on pin 8 or pin 16. one pin is for the OBD reader and the other is for the Nissan CONSULT tester.

The transmission light flashing is a failure warning. There is a self diagnostic for that. But a transmission problem will not keep the engine from starting. I think this is a symptom of the problem, not the cause.

Check and see if you have 12 volts inside the car, just like the battery has. Maybe there is some strange connection problem that is reducing the power into the cabin, causing the OBD, transmission control module, NATS and ECU problem.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

NATS disables the injectors, not the fuel pump.

WTF?

Thanks for the reply's guy. Yeah, something is not right. I put the fuel pump module all back together and re installed it into the car. That isn't the problem. Everything on the car works just fine, radio, lights, key fobs...just fuel pump, the OBDII scanner stays in the car and has always worked just fine. Just, now it says ERROR.


Cliff notes.........driving down the road, car dies, turns over, just won't start. No blinking LED of any kind....LED has always worked as it is supposed to. Can't scan with OBDII scanner......scanner has always worked till now. No check engine light.


I even clamped some jumper cables around on the engine, chassis, and the battery, checking for a bad ground. NADA. Disconnected battery, let sit. NADA.


Something fishy going on. Car has always been my rock solid work car, great shape, no aftermarket radio or alarm been hacked into it. Never gives an ounce of problems, and BAM......Bish dies on me. I'm gonna fix it, just don't want to start replacing things if I don't have to.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I really don't know what the problem is, so this is essentially a guess. I am still thinking (or should I say wondering) about a power problem.

As I think about a somewhat similar problem that the 6th gen Maximas (and Altimas) have, I'd like to get you to swap a fusable link under the hood. Between the battery and the fender is a fuse box. Swap the 40 amp fusible link labeled FL40A IGN SW with the one labeled FL40A POWER WINDOW.

You could swap with any one of the 40 amp fusible links, but a bad fusable link in the power window spot won't affect the running or safety of the car.

WTF?

Thanks for the insight....I see what you are saying. Will look into.that tonight. Haven't messed with it in two days, had to fly offshore for work.

One thing. I swapped the factory electronic front motor mount for a manual one a while back. Left the plug dangling.....have read where that motor mount will mess up the ecm.....the electric one that is.....could that plug have gotten wet, shorted together, and damaged the ecm? I'm guessing, but right now, it's all I got.

I really appreciate the insight guys.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

It's the key copy....

WTF?

I was suspicious of this instantly.....could you please elaborate? It is 140 for them to come out if it's not the problem. It started maybe 3 times I guess, but died less than 1 mile from the house when driven.

CS_AR

Do you still have any of the original keys? I've noticed some locksmiths and hardware stores record the signal from the original keys and program a new key to use the same signal as the originals. A few actually know how or have the software to reprogram the car's NATS unit and key to match.

WTF?

No, no original, that's why I had to get some made. Previously in this thread a gentleman stated that NATS cuts ignition, not fuel. Ignition is good, it starts on brakekleen.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

When the electric motor mount causes the STA509A chip in the ECU to fry, the engine will still start. No one has ever reported that the engine wouldn't start.

NATS does not cut the ignition, does not cut the fuel pump, it cuts the fuel injectors.

Did you swap the fusible link under the hood?

WTF?

Yes, I swapped the fusible links, and no go. Cleaned the grounds....now I am searching for a common denominator for power to the ECM and such. Kinda like your fusible link idea, but deeper maybe. Thanks for the tips, and help.

CS_AR

Where are you located?

WTF?

Houston Tx........


I am getting somewhere......Found a blown fuse that I missed previously. Yeah....


I believe number 58 Engine Cont 1. Replaced the fuse, and car fired right up.....now, on to whatever blew the fuse. Car runs rough, has a whinning sound coming from the transmission, and goes away when put in gear. Plus it has the 1122 and 1126 codes now. Rev's to 1500 SLOOOWWWWLY...


Previously car ran perfectly, no mods other than suspension, K&N, GAB, Transgo Kit, and water injection.


Not buying that the throttle body went bad. Must be an electrical gremlin somewhere, but why is the trans "clicking" ??? Sounds like a nitrous solenoid on a progressive controller,

CS_AR

Good news for sure. I think we have some good members in Harris Co and the area. Somebody might might have NDSII that can reprogram NATS keys if you still had the problem.

While I don't have a 5th gen, I do have NDSII and I have tested it on a 5th gen with my VAG-COM cable. I could reset you NATS if you were in my area.

If you plan to keep a 5th gen or later around, I would get a copy of NDSII and a VAG-COM cable to run diagnostics and reset NATS to avoid paying a the dealer or someone to reprogram keys. Here's a video on how to reprogram NATS with NDSII.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmQsR1rqUfA

When the ECU was suspect, if I knew you were in the northern TX, there is a shop in Big Sandy Tx (between Dallas and Shreveport) that specializes in ECU testing and repair. I had an ECU fail last winter, the place tested the ECU and found it to be bad, then they located the exact replacement part for a 99 model 5-speed (somewhat rare) and shipped both old and new back to me with quick turn around.

http://www.foreignecurepair.com/

WTF?

Good information for sure, and thanks for the vid. Ive had 3 of these 5th gens, and this is the first time i''ve had trouble with them. No biggie, still digging this morning on it.


I was having an O2 heater circuit code that was random, I think it is in that Com 1 circuit, so I purchased a new bosch O2 and will install it in a bit, maybe, just maybe that will help, needs it anyways. The only codes it is throwing now are the 1800 and 1122 1126 codes. I pulled the relay, cleaned, checked and still same issue. Next is a can of electrical cleaner and get to cleaning connections. Might jump around the relay just to see.

WTF?

Well, just cleaned everything, went over the plugs, relays, and such carefully, NO DICE...... Car is starting and running smooth as glass now, just like it always has, but P1122 and 1126 keep if from performing as expected. I'm sure you all know what I am talking about.


Are my only options really replacing the throttle body? Makes no sense that it went bad just sitting while the other issues were sorted. HMMMMM.....

WTF?

Replaced the relay for the 1126 code, no dice......cleaned throttle body, no dice....hooked up scanner and it shows the throttle body is getting voltage, and it's linear as I push pedal to the floor, maxing at 4.38ish volts. SOOOOOOOO.....I know its getting power, I know the pedal works, I know the relay works, could it be that the dang throttle body motor just took a dump? Hard for me to swallow that, but maybe, I guess. I will look for a way to test it out, ohms. or otherwise, until then, any suggestions would be nice.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Damn wtf WTF?

WTF?

I dunno......been wtf'ing the crap outta it. Took time off for a while today to work on a fellow ORG members Vortech charged 01. He was having belt and tuning issues. I think we have it sorted. Will finish his tomorrow and get back on mine.

WTF?

FIXED.........after scratching my head and going over this thing, I decided to put a jumper wire across the blue relay in front of the batter, to force power to the throttle body. I grabbed the trusty test light, and HMMMM
M......no power to any of the spade connectors......ok, turn on the key dummy.......nope.....nada. Dats not rite......so I investigate further, and finally decide that that is the culprit. I pull the relay panel up, and push on all the wires that go up into the relays and wiggle, jiggle everything, put it back together, and VIOLA.....test light comes on. I bust a backflip and kiss my hot *** girlfriend, cuz I founded da problem. Dive in the window Dukes of Hazard style, turn the key.......VROOOOOMMMM...........busts right off, revs like is has a bazillion horsepowers, which is probably does.....gots a KandN and all.


Well, looks like I had a bad turn of events, or something. Cont 1 fuse blows, I find that after overlooking it for a full day, I clean all connections from the relay to the throttle body, continuity tests and all. Pray a little....and it was power going to the relay that was missing. It has been raining here so maybe?????


Tomorrow starts the nitrous install. Yep, just fixed it and now I wanna blow it up. Well, there is this pesky LS1 Camaro that I race every morning on the way to work. Need to bust his *** in the Grandpa ride...TBC


Thanks to everyone that tried to help. I appreciate it, and hope I can help you guys some too.

Noladol

I know I'm here 7 years later, but I wanted to say THANK YOU!

I overlooked the Engine Cont. 2 fuse and that's exactly what it was for me. I had the same symptoms as you.

Have a wonderful day, sir!