Help - before I get raped at the dealership!
#1
Help - before I get raped at the dealership!
Hello,
I've got a weird issue. I searched the forum but didn't see anything like my situation. Here's what happened:
- Yesterday, on the highway, got cruise control set at 65, in sixth gear. Kind of daydreaming, all of the sudden the car either stalled or experienced a sudden loss of power (battery light, ABS, etc lights came on). I downshifted, eased out the clutch, came right back on. The road was relatively smooth, didn't hit a pothole or anything.
- Today, had to goose the throttle to get out into traffic. A couple minutes later, sudden loss of power. Trying to pop the clutch failed to work, the car was on but was struggling to rev. I pulled over, and the car idled fine. I revved it up, and all was fine except one time when it got past 4k, it dropped a bit. It did it a second time today - sudden loss of power, but then came back strong all by herself.
One Autozone girl said the battery was "100% bad" and that caused my stall. Right. She also said I should replace the alternator. I did that 4 months ago or so.
Advance checked the battery, and I do have one dead cell, but they said I'd probably be okay for a while. Battery turns the engine STRONG.
Any ideas as to where to start? The only thing I know that happened recently was that I let the tank get really, REALLY low. Since I have so many miles and have never changed the fuel filter ("lifetime filter", right? ), I thought maybe I've got crap in the lines.
Here are my car's particulars:
- 2003 SE, 6 speed manual
- 255,351 miles
- New clutch (1,000 miles ago)
- New alternator (aftermarket, 4 months old)
I did NOT get a CEL/SES light, so the auto stores said they wouldn't be able to read a code.
I've never replaced the MAF, though I did clean it 6 or 8 months ago with the CRC stuff.
Any help would be greatly appreciated! It stalled on me in busy traffic, which is fine when I'm alone, but when my kids are in the car, that's not going to be cool.
Thanks,
Jack
I've got a weird issue. I searched the forum but didn't see anything like my situation. Here's what happened:
- Yesterday, on the highway, got cruise control set at 65, in sixth gear. Kind of daydreaming, all of the sudden the car either stalled or experienced a sudden loss of power (battery light, ABS, etc lights came on). I downshifted, eased out the clutch, came right back on. The road was relatively smooth, didn't hit a pothole or anything.
- Today, had to goose the throttle to get out into traffic. A couple minutes later, sudden loss of power. Trying to pop the clutch failed to work, the car was on but was struggling to rev. I pulled over, and the car idled fine. I revved it up, and all was fine except one time when it got past 4k, it dropped a bit. It did it a second time today - sudden loss of power, but then came back strong all by herself.
One Autozone girl said the battery was "100% bad" and that caused my stall. Right. She also said I should replace the alternator. I did that 4 months ago or so.
Advance checked the battery, and I do have one dead cell, but they said I'd probably be okay for a while. Battery turns the engine STRONG.
Any ideas as to where to start? The only thing I know that happened recently was that I let the tank get really, REALLY low. Since I have so many miles and have never changed the fuel filter ("lifetime filter", right? ), I thought maybe I've got crap in the lines.
Here are my car's particulars:
- 2003 SE, 6 speed manual
- 255,351 miles
- New clutch (1,000 miles ago)
- New alternator (aftermarket, 4 months old)
I did NOT get a CEL/SES light, so the auto stores said they wouldn't be able to read a code.
I've never replaced the MAF, though I did clean it 6 or 8 months ago with the CRC stuff.
Any help would be greatly appreciated! It stalled on me in busy traffic, which is fine when I'm alone, but when my kids are in the car, that's not going to be cool.
Thanks,
Jack
Last edited by jsmith24; 10-25-2014 at 04:29 PM.
#4
Hi Guys,
Sorry, I forgot to add: I did NOT get a CEL/SES light, and both 'Zone and Advance said they couldn't read a code if there was no CEL or SES light.
As for the MAF, I have never replaced it. I did use the CRC cleaner on it maybe 6 or 8 months ago, but had no issues.
Jack
Sorry, I forgot to add: I did NOT get a CEL/SES light, and both 'Zone and Advance said they couldn't read a code if there was no CEL or SES light.
As for the MAF, I have never replaced it. I did use the CRC cleaner on it maybe 6 or 8 months ago, but had no issues.
Jack
#6
Jack
#11
Common Symptoms of a BAD Nissan MAF Sensor
These are some of the most common symptoms of a BAD Nissan MAF sensor:
Looks like at least #4 and #7 apply
These are some of the most common symptoms of a BAD Nissan MAF sensor:
- A MAF sensor code that lights up the check engine light (CEL), but not always.
- Lean and/or Rich code(s).
- Fuel Trim code(s).
- A tremendous lack of power upon acceleration.
- Black smoke coming from the tail-pipe.
- Won't pass an emmissions test.
- Vehicle may idle rough and stall.
- BAD gas mileage.
Looks like at least #4 and #7 apply
#12
If I had a known battery with a dead cell, I would replace the battery immediately, especially if I was having electrical issues. These cars have a lot of intricate electronics and anything other than the correct voltage may cause you a lot more cost than replacing the battery.
#13
If I had a known battery with a dead cell, I would replace the battery immediately, especially if I was having electrical issues. These cars have a lot of intricate electronics and anything other than the correct voltage may cause you a lot more cost than replacing the battery.
My main concern is what the hell is causing my car to stall/cut off.
Any other things to check?
Thanks guys.
#16
Symptoms of Wear or Failure
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB03-124.pdf
Wouldn't the dealer have picked up on this IF it was the cam sensor?
- Problems starting the car
- Engine may shut off or die intermittently
- Engine may misfire or hesitate on acceleration
- Check Engine Light may illuminate
Nissan has determined that some 2000-2003 model year Nissan vehicles may have a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety. The engine might stop running while being
driven if the crank position sensor or cam position sensor fails. This may also result in the “Service Engine Soon” light coming on or reduced engine power. If the engine stops running while driving, this could result in a crash without warning
driven if the crank position sensor or cam position sensor fails. This may also result in the “Service Engine Soon” light coming on or reduced engine power. If the engine stops running while driving, this could result in a crash without warning
Wouldn't the dealer have picked up on this IF it was the cam sensor?
Last edited by george__; 10-25-2014 at 09:49 PM.
#17
Symptoms of Wear or Failure
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB03-124.pdf
- Problems starting the car
- Engine may shut off or die intermittently
- Engine may misfire or hesitate on acceleration
- Check Engine Light may illuminate
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB03-124.pdf
Also, I know our cars have 2 cam pos sensors - anyway to tell which one might be the culprit without just replacing both? Money's tight...as always.
Jack
#18
#19
Again, not sure if I should be looking at cam or crank shaft sensors.
#21
#22
I made a thread on the engine problem I had on my 4th gen. a long time ago, which turned out to be a bad MAF.
Basically when things were just starting to go out, I get the same sudden loss of power while accelerating. I remember getting ready to turn at a red light and the car would start going like normal then suddenly cut out and then regain power and jerk forward. That was a scary moment because a car was going towards me pretty fast and I was gonna gun it but it stalled out midway, luckily power came back before I got ran over lol.
Later, I started getting lean codes for bank one then bank two. It kept switching back and forth. Along with starting problems and the same suddenly loss of power along with a rough idle.
Eventually my car would not start anymore. Sometimes, it would start and run extremely rough. As soon as it is in gear it would die.
So if you know for sure it is the MAF do not wait too long like I did.
Basically when things were just starting to go out, I get the same sudden loss of power while accelerating. I remember getting ready to turn at a red light and the car would start going like normal then suddenly cut out and then regain power and jerk forward. That was a scary moment because a car was going towards me pretty fast and I was gonna gun it but it stalled out midway, luckily power came back before I got ran over lol.
Later, I started getting lean codes for bank one then bank two. It kept switching back and forth. Along with starting problems and the same suddenly loss of power along with a rough idle.
Eventually my car would not start anymore. Sometimes, it would start and run extremely rough. As soon as it is in gear it would die.
So if you know for sure it is the MAF do not wait too long like I did.
#23
Maybe you have a defective Camshaft/crankshaft sensor that's intermittent....Check your altenator belt condition and tension as well and check that all you sensor connector pins are corrosion free and stilll engaging with a tight fit!
#24
To sum up so far:
- Some still think it HAS to be the MAF sensor.
- If it is the MAF, Camshaft or Crankshaft Position Sensors, it should throw a code and light the CEL/SES light.
I really appreciate the help, but I'm hoping someone can offer a more definite solution before I'm t-boned by a truck.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it!
Jack
#25
The MAF sensor often - in fact typically - does not throw a code; this tends to confuse even professional mechanics. My mechanic wasted 3 hours, replaced all kinds of parts incl. the fuel pump, until I forced him to replace the MAF. Problem solved.
Just replace your MAF - you should have a spare one at hand anyway.
#26
Your logic about the MAF is wrong.
The MAF sensor often - in fact typically - does not throw a code; this tends to confuse even professional mechanics. My mechanic wasted 3 hours, replaced all kinds of parts incl. the fuel pump, until I forced him to replace the MAF. Problem solved.
Just replace your MAF - you should have a spare one at hand anyway.
The MAF sensor often - in fact typically - does not throw a code; this tends to confuse even professional mechanics. My mechanic wasted 3 hours, replaced all kinds of parts incl. the fuel pump, until I forced him to replace the MAF. Problem solved.
Just replace your MAF - you should have a spare one at hand anyway.
Okay, MAF it is, then (at first). That's easier to reach than the others, anyway.
Anyone got a good source for just the sensor, or must I replace the entire "air box" it's attached to?
Jack
#29
Man, I am so freaking confused.
- Battery
- MAF
- Cam/Crank sensors
- Alternator belt
I've read lots of posts about each, and none of them seem to have my symptom. I know you're all trying to help, but I don't have the cash to replace all that and hope it works, you know?
Also, the MAF for '03s isn't $77, it's 300 or so, I think.
- Battery
- MAF
- Cam/Crank sensors
- Alternator belt
I've read lots of posts about each, and none of them seem to have my symptom. I know you're all trying to help, but I don't have the cash to replace all that and hope it works, you know?
Also, the MAF for '03s isn't $77, it's 300 or so, I think.
#30
^
Fix the MAF since it's common to go hay-wire.
Yeah the gen 5.5 maf are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Try to find a used one (www.car-part.com)
Fix the MAF since it's common to go hay-wire.
Yeah the gen 5.5 maf are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Try to find a used one (www.car-part.com)
#32
Quick question for the experts:
There's a parts yard 10 miles from me that just got in (like yesterday) an Infiniti G35 with under 100k on the clock with the MAF still in it. Is it worth a shot to spend $40 to try it?
Jack
There's a parts yard 10 miles from me that just got in (like yesterday) an Infiniti G35 with under 100k on the clock with the MAF still in it. Is it worth a shot to spend $40 to try it?
Jack
#34
How would a G35 maf work in the Maxima? Wouldn't the wiring be different?
#38
First thing to do - get rid of/replace the battery. If the cell in the battery is dead, that isn't a big problem except for starting. But if that cell is shorted, it is overloading the alternator and that could be killing the engine. With the bad battery in place, get a voltmeter and check the voltage at the battery while the engine is running.
If the voltage reading is not at approx 14 volts, there is a problem. If the voltage is below 13 volts, DO SOMETHING IMMEDIATELY like replace the battery.
When you have a voltage reading of approx 14 volts, then we'll see how the car runs and if further repairs are needed.
If the voltage reading is not at approx 14 volts, there is a problem. If the voltage is below 13 volts, DO SOMETHING IMMEDIATELY like replace the battery.
When you have a voltage reading of approx 14 volts, then we'll see how the car runs and if further repairs are needed.
#39
First thing to do - get rid of/replace the battery. If the cell in the battery is dead, that isn't a big problem except for starting. But if that cell is shorted, it is overloading the alternator and that could be killing the engine. With the bad battery in place, get a voltmeter and check the voltage at the battery while the engine is running.
If the voltage reading is not at approx 14 volts, there is a problem. If the voltage is below 13 volts, DO SOMETHING IMMEDIATELY like replace the battery.
When you have a voltage reading of approx 14 volts, then we'll see how the car runs and if further repairs are needed.
If the voltage reading is not at approx 14 volts, there is a problem. If the voltage is below 13 volts, DO SOMETHING IMMEDIATELY like replace the battery.
When you have a voltage reading of approx 14 volts, then we'll see how the car runs and if further repairs are needed.
Hi Dennis,
Checked the voltage at the terminals with the "bad" battery in place. Running without lights on, 14.36 Volts; with lights on, 14.31 Volts.
I know that probably has more to do with the alternator than the battery (keeping 14, that is), but it would appear that the bad cell is dead/open, not shorted, otherwise I'd expect lower voltage.