help! new rotors/pads
help! new rotors/pads
Got new rotors and pads, raybestos...
Fronts went on yesterday and are perfect.
Rears went on today.. And ive got issues.
I noticed that the wheels were more difficult to spin when i put them back on. Drove around the block and theyre grinding with no brake applied and it gets worse as i apply pressure to the pedal.
A google didn't get me much, and considering that its getting dark i need answers asap.
Thanks in advance
Fronts went on yesterday and are perfect.
Rears went on today.. And ive got issues.
I noticed that the wheels were more difficult to spin when i put them back on. Drove around the block and theyre grinding with no brake applied and it gets worse as i apply pressure to the pedal.
A google didn't get me much, and considering that its getting dark i need answers asap.
Thanks in advance
Were you able to screw the caliper piston in freely? IE did you back off the piston before installing the pads.1)perhaps you omitted this step or 2)it didn't screw in in which case you likely have some corrosion in the piston bore/piston.
Bought more lube for all the parts yet it still locks up on both sides.
The part numbers are all correct, so theres no issue with that. I will put the original pads and rotors on tomorrow and see if i have any luck, considering the car isnt able to move right now=(
Ebrake cables are fine.
Is it a possibility that the metal pad retainers need placing?
I caan get the rotor to spin freely until i hit the brake and it freezes it up. If i free the pads from the rotor it moves again no problem.
I caan get the rotor to spin freely until i hit the brake and it freezes it up. If i free the pads from the rotor it moves again no problem.
Have you added some sort of lube on the silver retainers that hold the pad in on either side? I like to use ani sieze or caliper slide lube. They need to be able to move. If you used the old one maybe theres some rust and the clearence is less so the pad is to tight and cant move back. But it only moves like a mm so you wont notice. But itmaybe be related to your caliper! Give it a shot and see. Also did your pads have a pin on the back one which lines up with one of the notches in the piston. Make sure the pad seats properly in it. Take a look and let us know! Good Luck!
Have you added some sort of lube on the silver retainers that hold the pad in on either side? I like to use ani sieze or caliper slide lube. They need to be able to move. If you used the old one maybe theres some rust and the clearence is less so the pad is to tight and cant move back. But it only moves like a mm so you wont notice. But itmaybe be related to your caliper! Give it a shot and see. Also did your pads have a pin on the back one which lines up with one of the notches in the piston. Make sure the pad seats properly in it. Take a look and let us know! Good Luck!
Notches were perfect and that pads are where they need to be until the brake is applied.
Both sides are doing it, but the driver side is 3 times worse than the passenger side.
Whatre the chances that both calipers went bad at the same time?
Last edited by King_Ten_Ahead; Dec 15, 2014 at 05:15 AM.
Revisit your slide pins. They seize extremely easily. Get them on a bench grinder, clean them up properly, and slim them down a HAIR.
Also clear out the old lube from the hole the slide pins go into.
Also clear out the old lube from the hole the slide pins go into.
You can purchase the bracke hardware kit at autozone comes with shims and retainers and if those are not in and in correct it will make awful noise... As far as the slide pins they do seize often but if they were moving freely when you put them in that should not be the problem
Slide pins were revisited.. waiting on someone who can take a look at them before i cave in and buy calipers
On the driver side it is nearly impossible to turn by hand with the new pads. with the old ones it scrubs.. but doesnt stick nearly as bad.
When i cant get the driver side to move after hitting the brakes, im unable to move the caliper by hand.
Im thinking its a combo of bad sliders and not so good pistons. The extra thickness of the new pads is keeping the sliders further out than the old pads, causing resistance where the pins didnt travel with the old pads. Is that a logically correct statement?
Problem solved!
Had my mechanic friend come take a look and when i went to show him what the problem was.. It disappeared. Couldnt replicate it.
Drove the car through an empty parking lot jamming on the brakes (on the old pads) just to be sure they wouldnt lock up. New pads are on and shes all good to go
...though i should replace the calipers sometime in the future....
Had my mechanic friend come take a look and when i went to show him what the problem was.. It disappeared. Couldnt replicate it.
Drove the car through an empty parking lot jamming on the brakes (on the old pads) just to be sure they wouldnt lock up. New pads are on and shes all good to go
...though i should replace the calipers sometime in the future....
Problem solved!
Had my mechanic friend come take a look and when i went to show him what the problem was.. It disappeared. Couldnt replicate it.
Drove the car through an empty parking lot jamming on the brakes (on the old pads) just to be sure they wouldnt lock up. New pads are on and shes all good to go
...though i should replace the calipers sometime in the future....
Had my mechanic friend come take a look and when i went to show him what the problem was.. It disappeared. Couldnt replicate it.
Drove the car through an empty parking lot jamming on the brakes (on the old pads) just to be sure they wouldnt lock up. New pads are on and shes all good to go
...though i should replace the calipers sometime in the future....
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