shobuddy

iTrader: (1)

I have a 2003 Max SE with 162K miles on it. I've been using Mobil 1 extended performance synthetic since before I had 100k miles. I add about 3/4 of a quart every month. Mechanic pointed out I have a leak from the valve cover and that switching to a blend might help. My questions are, what oils/treatments are recommended to stop/reduce the leak from the VC? Should I try dino, a blend or Mobil1 makes a synthetic high mileage oil that supposedly prevents leaks in older, high mileage cars. I definitely want to try an oil that will help with the leak and want to get recommendations on which to try.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Just replace the gasket on your valve cover.
A copy of the FSM is on my sig and that will tell you how to do it.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

JFC. Fix it.

Please, pretty please, lock this.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

george__

iTrader: (1)

get gen 6 valve covers (2004 +)

shobuddy

iTrader: (1)

Whats an approximate on labor costs to get the front valve cover replaced? Also looking at this product on amazon: Anyone have any experience/advice on the product?

My gf's older Corolla also has the same valve cover oil leak issue. I might try the bluedevil product on her car first. But really, would rather replace the gasket first. Any idea on labor costs? ballpark figure.

TallTom

It's the rear valve cover that is the problem with our Max's. They are prone to leaking and filling up the spark plug wells. Buy a 6th gen cover + gasket and swap it out. Might as well do the rear spark plugs while you are in there.

Never ever ever, put snake oil into the engine. If that crap ever worked, mechanics would be buying it by the caseload.

george__

iTrader: (1)

The front ones on the Maxima are easy the rear you need to take off the intake manifold but otherwise it's not hard.. Consider replacing ignition coils while you have the manifold off anyhow

shobuddy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the responses. As far as I can tell, mine is leaking from the front VC but I have to take off the engine cover and check the rear one a little better. And yes, I do intend to replace the rear three ignition coils while I'm there. Been getting the cylinder misfire codes for almost three years now. Though the car continues to run ok, I do feel the misfires occasionally. Not sure if the coils are bad or if oil has gotten in there to cause the misfires.

Mateen995

It's most definitely the oil getting into the spark plugs & ignition coil boot. Had the same problem couple months ago & found my 5th cyl spark plug drenched in oil

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I agree, all of these are just bad aids aside from actually changing the cover & gasket. Changing the rear VC isn't that bad. Mine is missing right now and I'm blaming it on the cyl #5 due to that oil leaking in there.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...overs-pic.html

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Exactly. Once you throw away the IM brackets, you can have it off in 5 mins while wearing a blind fold.

For a design that covers the rear bank, I doubt there's an easier car to do this work on.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Do it right, do it once. Replace the valve cover gaskets as needed. Easy and cheap job.

Carguy1709

I just replaced my front valve cover, took about 45 minutes. Take engine cover off, remove wiring harness out of the way, remove ignition coils, remove valve cover bolts, clean where the gasket meets, apply silicone in the sharp corners, put new cover and gasket on and thats about it! Good luck!

jared21927

That rear gasket is a PITA. Im not going to BS with you. That's why shops charge so much to replace it. It's easy as in, it's just removing bolts and hoses primarily, but I dont want to give you the impression that it's a piece of cake. There's a lot to remove and not a lot of space back there. Changing the actual gasket is easy but it's like surgery removing all that stuff to get to it. Make sure you do it right because you don't want to have to go back there again if you don't have to. Change everything you need to while back there. I'm speaking from experience. Manage your expectations.

Kristoefur

iTrader: (4)

Important side note: DO NOT over tighten the valve cover bolts. I accidentally did this and spent days trying to get them out using various methods (EasyOut, Left-handed drill bit, ect.) It was not fun.

george__

iTrader: (1)

considering replacing ignition coils and whatnot when you are back there

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I'm sure you're burning more than you're leaking!

shobuddy

iTrader: (1)

Is it necessary/recommended to use RTV as part of the gasket replace job?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Yes, most definitely. Follow the procedure in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) to a 'T'. Just don't wing it. And be sure to torque everything down to spec as spelled out in the FSM too.

Click link in my sig for a free copy of the FSM.

shobuddy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, looking at page 18 of EM.pdf, I want to clarify three things.

1. Do I need gasket maker (black tube) or gasket sealer (blue tube)?
http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glu...er/193913_0_0/
http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glu...er/554295_0_0/

2. The RTV gasket is not applied all the way around, just at the two points, correct? I've read conflicting reports so want to clarify.

3. The FSM also say "For bolt holes with * marks (5 locations), apply liquid
gasket outside of the holes."
Does this mean apply it around the holes and then screw in the bolt to seal it?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

1. Gasket Maker
2. EM 18 is for the oil pan. Look at EM 31, 33, and 45.
3. The 5 locations was oil pan related only.