Trick Alternator ?
Trick Alternator ?
Hey Buds,
Hope that you guys are doing well...and that the only thing bothering you, are car issues.
ANYWHO----HOPING that someone could give me some input on my alternator issue?
Thanks All....for your constructive input...
~T
Hope that you guys are doing well...and that the only thing bothering you, are car issues.
ANYWHO----HOPING that someone could give me some input on my alternator issue?
My car died on the road yesterday (luckily, i wasn't too far from home).....While driving, i was losing power until i couldn't get above 20mph. The TCS and ABS lights were on (again...same problem for past 2 weeks). I pulled over, turned the car off, let it sit for 5 mins, and then turned the key----battery was dead.
PROBLEM: "Apparently...the alternator sometimes works, and sometimes it doesn't? "- When i tested the battery/charging system at the A.Parts store this morning, codes showed battery and alternator were Fine?
- What the Hell would cause the alternator to work sometimes and other times not?
- How much time will it take to change it out with a new one?
- Will it damage the car to drive it...until i can get the Alt. Changed?
Thanks All....for your constructive input...
~T
Last edited by acw; Mar 14, 2015 at 09:58 AM.
Rockauto offers several I just bought a Hitachi remaned unit.....If your altenator isn't supplying a sufficient amount of Amps/Volts the system will turn using the battery's storage energy to the point tat there's nothing left or the battery suffers from cell damage....I suggest you have the battery tested for CCA (The rating is on the battery top) determine if you need to purchase a new battery....I you do then install it and do the following step:
1. Measure battery Voltage (car off)
2.Check and clean all your grounds and perhaps install some star washers on every ground. Check altenator belt tension
3. Start vehicle and measure altenator output @ battery post....(no loads)
4. Measure altenator output with all loads on...(headlights, fogslights, emergency flashers, Blower fan on full) 12.5v-13.1v
5. If your output isn't above at 12.0v loaded you definitely have an alenator issue...Do drive it or you'll be back to have both battery and altenator defective. GL!
1. Measure battery Voltage (car off)
2.Check and clean all your grounds and perhaps install some star washers on every ground. Check altenator belt tension
3. Start vehicle and measure altenator output @ battery post....(no loads)
4. Measure altenator output with all loads on...(headlights, fogslights, emergency flashers, Blower fan on full) 12.5v-13.1v
5. If your output isn't above at 12.0v loaded you definitely have an alenator issue...Do drive it or you'll be back to have both battery and altenator defective. GL!
Thanks....already did what you mentioned.....read above.
Battery tests done......works fine. I'm wondering why alternator works sometimes...n sometimes not?
Battery tests done......works fine. I'm wondering why alternator works sometimes...n sometimes not?
Rockauto offers several I just bought a Hitachi remaned unit.....If your altenator isn't supplying a sufficient amount of Amps/Volts the system will turn using the battery's storage energy to the point tat there's nothing left or the battery suffers from cell damage....I suggest you have the battery tested for CCA (The rating is on the battery top) determine if you need to purchase a new battery....I you do then install it and do the following step:
1. Measure battery Voltage (car off)
2.Check and clean all your grounds and perhaps install some star washers on every ground. Check altenator belt tension
3. Start vehicle and measure altenator output @ battery post....(no loads)
4. Measure altenator output with all loads on...(headlights, fogslights, emergency flashers, Blower fan on full) 12.5v-13.1v
5. If your output isn't above at 12.0v loaded you definitely have an alenator issue...Do drive it or you'll be back to have both battery and altenator defective. GL!
1. Measure battery Voltage (car off)
2.Check and clean all your grounds and perhaps install some star washers on every ground. Check altenator belt tension
3. Start vehicle and measure altenator output @ battery post....(no loads)
4. Measure altenator output with all loads on...(headlights, fogslights, emergency flashers, Blower fan on full) 12.5v-13.1v
5. If your output isn't above at 12.0v loaded you definitely have an alenator issue...Do drive it or you'll be back to have both battery and altenator defective. GL!
Don't drive it as is. If the regulator spikes say 30v through your electrical system, other things can/will get damaged.
Since it's your first time changing an alternator, it's going to take you 3 to 4 hours.
Thanks man....looking at job....how much time for a mechanic to do it?
Because the voltage regulator inside the alternator is on the fritz. It's not dependable, I'd replace the alternator. Of course, check all your connections first to make sure they are solid and free of corrosion.
Don't drive it as is. If the regulator spikes say 30v through your electrical system, other things can/will get damaged.
Since it's your first time changing an alternator, it's going to take you 3 to 4 hours.
Don't drive it as is. If the regulator spikes say 30v through your electrical system, other things can/will get damaged.
Since it's your first time changing an alternator, it's going to take you 3 to 4 hours.
What's your method? I prefer too not too take the alternative method in unbolting the a/c compressor cause I don't want any a/c issues....nor do I want to damage my radiator trying to squeeze the altenator past it! Your method please????
Rather spend $25 in antifreeze and not mess with the ac compressor...
I unbolt the AC compressor. Done it a million times already. No issues, doesn't even scrape the radiator fans; it's awfully close but clears no problem.
Hey Buds...thanks!
Not sure i want to REMOVE the compressor again...as i just changed the **** 3 times before i got one that works (i'm talking Rebuilt-Remans from 2 different stores).
Anyway, i don't know which way my mechanic will go...but i'm thinking droping or moving the radiator.
Here's a vid of a guy moving the fans/radiator out of the way.
ITs a vid of some dude working on the 3.5l motor (same one we have---looks like)
LOL....he calls it "alternatoe"!
~T
Not sure i want to REMOVE the compressor again...as i just changed the **** 3 times before i got one that works (i'm talking Rebuilt-Remans from 2 different stores).
Anyway, i don't know which way my mechanic will go...but i'm thinking droping or moving the radiator.
Here's a vid of a guy moving the fans/radiator out of the way.
ITs a vid of some dude working on the 3.5l motor (same one we have---looks like)
LOL....he calls it "alternatoe"!
~T
Last edited by acw; Mar 16, 2015 at 06:49 AM.
+1
This is the best way to do this. There is no way in hell removing the rad is easier than unbolting the AC compressor.
I did this job twice, by dropping AC compressor, just do it carefully and gently, remember to have a support under the dangling compressor. Push the compressor to driver's side and it will give exit to alternator.
But I still wondering why you have a speed ceiling of 20mph? problem alternator will lead to that? wondering...
But I still wondering why you have a speed ceiling of 20mph? problem alternator will lead to that? wondering...
Last edited by erictown; Mar 17, 2015 at 08:59 AM.
OK...looks like the problem has been fixed (keeping fingers crossed).
I changed over to a Reman Alternator from Bennett---and installed it last week. Seems to be running ok----took a nice 300 mile trip yesterday and no problems with this issue.
Thanks everyone!
I changed over to a Reman Alternator from Bennett---and installed it last week. Seems to be running ok----took a nice 300 mile trip yesterday and no problems with this issue.
Thanks everyone!
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