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Trick Alternator ?

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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 09:33 AM
  #1  
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Trick Alternator ?

Hey Buds,

Hope that you guys are doing well...and that the only thing bothering you, are car issues.

ANYWHO----HOPING that someone could give me some input on my alternator issue?
My car died on the road yesterday (luckily, i wasn't too far from home).....While driving, i was losing power until i couldn't get above 20mph. The TCS and ABS lights were on (again...same problem for past 2 weeks). I pulled over, turned the car off, let it sit for 5 mins, and then turned the key----battery was dead.
PROBLEM: "Apparently...the alternator sometimes works, and sometimes it doesn't? "
  1. When i tested the battery/charging system at the A.Parts store this morning, codes showed battery and alternator were Fine?
  2. What the Hell would cause the alternator to work sometimes and other times not?
  3. How much time will it take to change it out with a new one?
  4. Will it damage the car to drive it...until i can get the Alt. Changed?


Thanks All....for your constructive input...




~T

Last edited by acw; Mar 14, 2015 at 09:58 AM.
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 10:40 AM
  #2  
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Happened to me too.

I ultimately just bought a OEM one after going through numerous aftermarket brands.

Last edited by george__; Mar 14, 2015 at 10:42 AM.
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 11:13 AM
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Rockauto offers several I just bought a Hitachi remaned unit.....If your altenator isn't supplying a sufficient amount of Amps/Volts the system will turn using the battery's storage energy to the point tat there's nothing left or the battery suffers from cell damage....I suggest you have the battery tested for CCA (The rating is on the battery top) determine if you need to purchase a new battery....I you do then install it and do the following step:
1. Measure battery Voltage (car off)
2.Check and clean all your grounds and perhaps install some star washers on every ground. Check altenator belt tension
3. Start vehicle and measure altenator output @ battery post....(no loads)
4. Measure altenator output with all loads on...(headlights, fogslights, emergency flashers, Blower fan on full) 12.5v-13.1v
5. If your output isn't above at 12.0v loaded you definitely have an alenator issue...Do drive it or you'll be back to have both battery and altenator defective. GL!
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 11:38 AM
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Thanks....already did what you mentioned.....read above.

Battery tests done......works fine. I'm wondering why alternator works sometimes...n sometimes not?


Originally Posted by CMax03
Rockauto offers several I just bought a Hitachi remaned unit.....If your altenator isn't supplying a sufficient amount of Amps/Volts the system will turn using the battery's storage energy to the point tat there's nothing left or the battery suffers from cell damage....I suggest you have the battery tested for CCA (The rating is on the battery top) determine if you need to purchase a new battery....I you do then install it and do the following step:
1. Measure battery Voltage (car off)
2.Check and clean all your grounds and perhaps install some star washers on every ground. Check altenator belt tension
3. Start vehicle and measure altenator output @ battery post....(no loads)
4. Measure altenator output with all loads on...(headlights, fogslights, emergency flashers, Blower fan on full) 12.5v-13.1v
5. If your output isn't above at 12.0v loaded you definitely have an alenator issue...Do drive it or you'll be back to have both battery and altenator defective. GL!
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 12:04 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by acw
Thanks....already did what you mentioned.....read above.

Battery tests done......works fine. I'm wondering why alternator works sometimes...n sometimes not?
Because the voltage regulator inside the alternator is on the fritz. It's not dependable, I'd replace the alternator. Of course, check all your connections first to make sure they are solid and free of corrosion.

Don't drive it as is. If the regulator spikes say 30v through your electrical system, other things can/will get damaged.

Since it's your first time changing an alternator, it's going to take you 3 to 4 hours.
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 12:53 PM
  #6  
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Thanks man....looking at job....how much time for a mechanic to do it?

Originally Posted by The Wizard
Because the voltage regulator inside the alternator is on the fritz. It's not dependable, I'd replace the alternator. Of course, check all your connections first to make sure they are solid and free of corrosion.

Don't drive it as is. If the regulator spikes say 30v through your electrical system, other things can/will get damaged.

Since it's your first time changing an alternator, it's going to take you 3 to 4 hours.
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 01:24 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by acw
Thanks man....looking at job....how much time for a mechanic to do it?
My mechanic did it in under 3 hours, I also replaced the serpentine belt as well as the pulley cause they were the originals
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 01:48 PM
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Radiator/fans comes out for clearance....
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by acw
Thanks man....looking at job....how much time for a mechanic to do it?
An honest mechanic would hopefully charge you 2 hours.

Originally Posted by CMax03
Radiator/fans comes out for clearance....
Definitely helpful, but not mandatory by any means.
Old Mar 15, 2015 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
An honest mechanic would hopefully charge you 2 hours.



Definitely helpful, but not mandatory by any means.
What's your method? I prefer too not too take the alternative method in unbolting the a/c compressor cause I don't want any a/c issues....nor do I want to damage my radiator trying to squeeze the altenator past it! Your method please????
Old Mar 15, 2015 | 09:35 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by CMax03
What's your method? I prefer too not too take the alternative method in unbolting the a/c compressor cause I don't want any a/c issues....nor do I want to damage my radiator trying to squeeze the altenator past it! Your method please????
Yea i came to the same conclusion when it came time to replace mine....

Rather spend $25 in antifreeze and not mess with the ac compressor...
Old Mar 15, 2015 | 01:42 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by CMax03
What's your method? I prefer too not too take the alternative method in unbolting the a/c compressor cause I don't want any a/c issues....nor do I want to damage my radiator trying to squeeze the altenator past it! Your method please????
I unbolt the AC compressor. Done it a million times already. No issues, doesn't even scrape the radiator fans; it's awfully close but clears no problem.
Old Mar 15, 2015 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nestorlugo
Yea i came to the same conclusion when it came time to replace mine....

Rather spend $25 in antifreeze and not mess with the ac compressor...
And you have to re-burp the system to ensure it's free of air. More time, more money, not my way of doing things...
Old Mar 15, 2015 | 02:12 PM
  #14  
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Well that's the two options for acw's mechanic, i just hope the compressor bracket and bolts aren't all rusted up if he choses that route....
Old Mar 15, 2015 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nestorlugo
Well that's the two options for acw's mechanic, i just hope the compressor bracket and bolts aren't all rusted up if he choses that route....
that's true. Living in CA, I'm spoiled and don't have to deal with rust and often forget what you guys have to deal with.
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 06:38 AM
  #16  
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Hey Buds...thanks!

Not sure i want to REMOVE the compressor again...as i just changed the **** 3 times before i got one that works (i'm talking Rebuilt-Remans from 2 different stores).

Anyway, i don't know which way my mechanic will go...but i'm thinking droping or moving the radiator.

Here's a vid of a guy moving the fans/radiator out of the way.

ITs a vid of some dude working on the 3.5l motor (same one we have---looks like)


LOL....he calls it "alternatoe"!


~T

Last edited by acw; Mar 16, 2015 at 06:49 AM.
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 04:05 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
I unbolt the AC compressor. Done it a million times already. No issues, doesn't even scrape the radiator fans; it's awfully close but clears no problem.

+1


This is the best way to do this. There is no way in hell removing the rad is easier than unbolting the AC compressor.
Old Mar 17, 2015 | 05:36 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 4thGenTuner
+1


This is the best way to do this. There is no way in hell removing the rad is easier than unbolting the AC compressor.
Yes...but if you unbolt the AC compressor-----

  1. What are the Risks?
  2. Is it possible to Damage the compressor or AC system?


T
Old Mar 17, 2015 | 08:57 AM
  #19  
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I did this job twice, by dropping AC compressor, just do it carefully and gently, remember to have a support under the dangling compressor. Push the compressor to driver's side and it will give exit to alternator.

But I still wondering why you have a speed ceiling of 20mph? problem alternator will lead to that? wondering...

Last edited by erictown; Mar 17, 2015 at 08:59 AM.
Old Mar 17, 2015 | 09:06 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by acw

Yes...but if you unbolt the AC compressor-----


[*]What are the Risks?[*]Is it possible to Damage the compressor or AC system?


T
If you do it carefully, there are no risks. You're just saving time and hassle.
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 05:45 AM
  #21  
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OK...looks like the problem has been fixed (keeping fingers crossed).

I changed over to a Reman Alternator from Bennett---and installed it last week. Seems to be running ok----took a nice 300 mile trip yesterday and no problems with this issue.

Thanks everyone!
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