Ive been doing a lot of reading on this board trying to figure out the issues with my wife's 2000 Maxima GLE.

I'll try to keep this as brief as possible since you guys are probably tired of the same issues and questions.

A few weeks ago she went to start the car. It had trouble turning over the first 2 times, then on the third time it started then died after a few seconds. Since then it has had the infamous "crank all day, no start" issue. I pulled the codes and got P1320 and P0335.

I have replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor, Crankshaft Position Sensor and Plugs & Coils (they needed to be done anyway). The battery has good voltage and starter was replaced a couple years ago.

After replacing those parts, still nothing. Starter is turning but the car wont run.

I had an mechanic (old friend of mine) come out and test for fuel and spark. He sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body but it wouldnt start. He checked the timing chain, all good there. He checked the injectors with a node light too. He seems to think its a bad ECU since the Crank sensor was replaced. I ended up pulling the ECU out to take a look at the board, but I dont see any burn marks or popped caps. Everything on the board looks fine to the naked eye.

Now I dont know what to do. I dont want to throw more money at the car by getting a new/used ECU just to find out that it wasnt the problem.

Could there be anything else causing the problem? P1320 and P0335 had me thinking it was the Crank sensor...

Help please!

 

For what it's worth, I hooked everything back up (battery, ECU) and Im only getting the P0335 code. So that could be the crank sensor, wiring or ecu now...

 

There's two crank sensors.

And who knows if the new one is even good.

 

Would I get the same P0335 code if either of the 2 were bad?

 

Idk. Idk 3.0L nearly as well as 3.5s.

I always just clean the crank sensors and that usually works On the flywheel one I always find metal bits from the starter/flywheel.

If i had this goddamn I30 running right, I'd test it for ya.

 

Did you change both CPS? There are two as Korn mentioned.

Also, did you change with OEM or use an aftermarket? The aftermarket are not as reliable as OEM. Sometimes they do not work right out of the box.

I hope you still have the original CPS's. If you do, clean them both, then reinstall them and see if the car turns over. If not, you may have to replace them. The FSM does outline a procedure to test the CPS if you have a voltmeter. It starts on page 391 in the link below.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000.5/EC.pdf

Here is a link to courtesy nissan with parts diagram for the CPS.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/auto-pa...on-system-scat

 

Make sure the car is not immobilized; if it were, the red security light would be ON when cranking.

 

Yes, this...assuming the OP checked for this, but maybe he didn't.

If the immobilizer is on then you need to do a search on the issue. I think the only resolution is to have it towed to Nissan dealer and have ECU and key reprogrammed, but I could be wrong.

Here, DennisMilk posted this procedure in case it is immobilized.

If it was a wrong key type of situation, there is a procedure you can do to get the car to start:
a) Leave the ignition key in “ON” position for approximately 5 seconds.
b) Turn ignition key to “OFF” or “LOCK” position and wait approximately 5 seconds.
c) Repeat step 1 and 2 again.
d) Restart the engine while keeping the key separate from any others on key-chain.

Here is the thread link.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ple-codes.html