Hi all,

Here is the background...
I have a Maxima 2000 SE. It's run great for the time I've had it (minor repairs here and there). The SES light has always turned on when I've taken long trips, but it would go away after a while. This SES normally came with a "P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2" code. I haven't done much about this code since the car seems to work fine and I don't drive it for long distances too often.

Recently the car started leaking coolant. I thought it was the radiator and had it replaced. After that I notice that there was still coolant being leaked from somewhere. Before going back to the mechanic I started looking around the engine and notice that a blower hose was cracked, some oil leakage from the cramshaft position sensor. I also started getting a new set of codes (P1320 and P0340) plus the TCS OFF and SLIP lights on the dash. I opened a thread here and followed the suggestion to clean the crankshaft's connector and to inspect its O-Ring. I ended up replacing the O-Ring since it felt like plastic instead of rubber. And I replaced the two hoses. I'm no longer getting the P0340 code, but the three lights and the P1320 code all come back after the car is running for a few minutes. BTW, I have an ODB2 adapter and can clear the codes while I'm troubleshooting the car.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Also, I don't know if this sucking sound is normal so if someone can advice me on what to look into that would be great too.

 

I'm pretty sure that "sucking" sound is normal. That's just your throttle plate opening and sucking in air through the intake.

My guess on the lights is it probably has something to do with abs sensor. They have a direct correlation with tcs so that might be leading me there. What does the remaining code definition say.

 

"P1320 - Ignition Signal"

Since I have not seen a P030X code I don't think it is a faulty coil. I want to know if there is anything I can do before buying the camshaft position sensor and/or the coils.

 

No sorry I'm not familiar with that code or its meaning. Never had it.

 

P1320 can be a "ghost" code, caused by other codes such as P0340. So, perhaps it will go away but I wouldn't bet on it. I think you can only wait and/or replace the CRANKshaft sensor (REF). When weak or intermittent, this sensor can trigger this code (P1320). Re. the TCS light, check your battery and alternator thoroughly: the battery voltage should be 12.5V (car idle) and 14.5V (engine running and alternator charging).

 

The voltage is 12V with the ignition off and 13.5V with it on.

 

I don't understand what you mean by "ignition off" and "ignition on", but what your are saying does not not make sense. Your battery voltage should be:

• 12.5V - car is not running, no key in ignition.
• 11.9-12.2V - car is not running, but keys are in the ON position; radio and some other minor "appliances" such as dash lights are drawing current and that's why the voltage is lower than above.
• ~14.5V - car running, and the alternator is charging the battery. That's why the voltage is higher than the nominal 12.5V.

 

I was reading the voltage that he ODB2 adapter outputted.

• With the key in the ignition in the ON position, it ready 11.9V - 12.1V.
• With the car ON and the car idling it read 13.5V. I didn't get a reading while revving the engine.

Thanks for helping out. I appreciate it.

 

It took a while, but I finally go a P030x code, P0304 to be exact. I placed an order for the coil from NissanPartsDeal. After replacing the coil and clearing the code the car is no longer turning on any signals on the dash.

 

Good to hear you got this resolved and the car is running fine.