kirkhilles

2001 i30 w/208k.

I have the P0505 with confirmed IACV/ECU failures and after finally getting off those 4 bolts for the ECU, I'm trying to get the Throttle Body/IACV off, so I can give it a good cleaning and replace the IACV with a new Nissan one.

I've gotten the 4 main bolts off, the throttle body wires off, 2 top connectors and the hose to the left (took some work!). So, there might be others, but I see the connector the the IACV itself + one other hose. I've watched the "FixyourNissan" Part 1 part but he removes it all in like 60 seconds.

I, on the other hand, am having difficulty.

First off, I seem to have problems getting connectors off. How do you get lower one off? Do you just push a screwdriver into the tab in the front? I've tried and tried but am worried about damaging it. I've already, uh, pretty pretty damaging trying to get off that stupid rear electronic engine mount connector.

Any tips to help me finish the job? I've spent probably 2 hours trying to get this off.

Thanks!

kirkhilles

An update: I WAS able to get the connector off. The key for me was to get the screwdriver IN BETWEEN the plug and the connector and then I slowly twisted it and it separated. Hahaha!

HOWEVER, now I'm down to just that last annoying hose off. I've been able to manage to get my needle nose pliars on it and open it, but can't get it to move off of the end spot. I'm sure the hose has become toughly attached as well like the side one.

Sigh. This is frustrating. Any tips on this? I guess I'll look at a hose tool.

maxiiiboy

Yes, a hose tool makes things amazingly easy. I got a good one from Harbor Freight Tools, and it was like $4-6; absolutely worth it, even if you never use it again.

kirkhilles

What is the tool called? I see pneumatic ones for like $50+ on Amazon. I see the tools to crimp hoses and those to reach hoses, but no cheap ones to open the clamps.

Could you send me a link or let me know what its called? I may have to put it off until I get it.

maxiiiboy

Here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch...ers-39539.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch...set-38598.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch...set-38598.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...ers-37909.html

There is one handy tool (hose pliers) that I couldn't find on the website. You may want to visit the store.

03Alt3.5Biz

I did the TB Bypass yesterday and yes the 2 hoses attaching to the IACV were very hard to get off (205,000 miles). Cussing didn't seem work so I used a long flat screwdriver to pry the clamps open. Slip the flat end down between the hose and clamp, twist it slightly to stretch the clamp open a bit. It was enough to get the hose off. This method doesn't slip the clamp down 2 inches, it just opens it enough to slide the hose and clamp off together.

kirkhilles

Thanks! So, how exactly did you do the bypass? Did you use an new hoses or connectors? If not, where did you hook everything up to?

maxiiiboy

On a 2000, you don't need any new hoses or clamps; you just shuffle the hoses around. On a 2001, you may need a piece of hose (not sure, my car is a 2000). There is a picture in this doc https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...ew?usp=sharing that makes it obvious.

kirkhilles

I appreciate all of your input and the Doc is wonderful (I've read through it many times and I'm sure you're aware), but while I understand the concept, I'd feel more comfortable with an actual picture or more specifics. Is it my understanding that you remove one of the hoses at the OTHER end (ie: one NOT connected to IACV) and then connect the other hose to THAT spot? Which hose goes where? Do you use the one from the side or bottom? Wouldn't it be easier just to get some sort of connector to connect the two or would that lead to leaking?

maxiiiboy

Well, you simply get the TB/IACV "out of the loop". Perhaps this earlier post may explain it better: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post9010920 . And no, you don't need a connector (not on a 2k Maxima), but if you want to use one it's certainly possible.

03Alt3.5Biz

After reading threads on the TB bipass (including info above by Maxiiiboy) I tore into the car and easily removed the intake etc. removing the hoses was a problem...old hoses, clamps facing the wrong direction, no room to work. looking at the TB from the driver side of the engine you see a hose entering the IACV from the left side (towards the front of the car). I removed the hose completely. I also removed the hose exiting the IACV underneath closer to the fire wall/windshield side. The hoses didn't look long enough to be reused but I trust they are per Maxiiiboy. I elected to buy new hose from Oreilly's and connected it to the front left side nipple (not the IACV) looping over towards the right with a half turn and connecting to the other nipple (not on the IACV). The upper portion of the hose loop is just under the TB opening. The hose is about 15 inches long (estimate), same size internal opening as OEM, and made for fuel lines. It's long enough to avoid collapsing, no pressure on it due to the loop. I left the IACV open, no hoses connected. I plan to use a compressor tomorrow to blow the IACV out. If you elect to go this route make sure you buy longer hose tubing and don't cut it too short.

kirkhilles

I was just looking again and I saw these two hoses (two together, one going up and one flat to the right of the big.. uh circle thing). The one going up is the one that was connected to the side of the IACV and the other wraps around and is the one going to the bottom (that I'm having problems getting off).

So, isn't it just a matter of connecting the two? If I were to remove the one going up and then if the flat one is able to move and could just move 90 degrees and connect where the other one is, then that's it, right?

Or is the goal to take the cable that went to the side one to stretch down to where the bottom one connected?

03Alt3.5Biz

The short hose coming up towards the camera should be the hose that connects to the IACV. Second little hose to the right of the round part. That hose once disconnected from the IACV may be able to be connected to the other nipple to the right below the IACV.

kirkhilles

Here's what I've decided to do (unless reason given otherwise).

I've removed that hose that's flat in the picture completely which is a 6 inch hose and so now if I can get that other hose going up (which is the one that heads to the side of the IACV) removed, then I'm just going to get a maybe 9 inch (I guess? 12 inch?) hose from AdvanceAuto to connect the two.

Here's my argument:

1) These are 16 year old hoses. If you're going to remove hoses, you should plan on replacing them

2) No coolant in the IACV. Period. No worries about me not getting it sealed properly the first time and frying the ECU or anything like that. I'm hoping that it means the end of the IACV problems until the car leaves my possession.

3) Fewer Hoses total in play (just the one connecting the two instead of the two hoses)

What does everyone think? I'll probably need a tool to remove the last clamp (plus the one still on the IACV), but otherwise, I'm hoping that it'll be in good shape when I'm done.

manilakid3

If the coolant hose your trying to get off is hard to get off, then cut it off. At Oreilly auto they charge by the foot. So all you need is 1 foot to do the bye pass coolant.

As for the hose clamps, you'll either need a needle nose to get it off or a flat head screw driver. The clamps on mine were hard to get off also.

Your 1st argument is practical, but some hoses are expensive and you would need to special order them.

nitromax

how does removing these hoses/coolant from IACV effect idle in cold weather? does it take longer to come off of high idle as it warms up?

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

A lot of members here have done it with no problems even in very cold climates.

I've done it on my 00 and my 02 but I live in a mild climate where we rarely even drop below freezing.