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A/C cooling problems (detailed) need help!

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Old 04-16-2016, 10:09 PM
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A/C cooling problems (detailed) need help!

Hi guys, long time lurker first time poster.
I have a 2000 Max GLE. The ac blows warm on 65. I say warm cause it is not hot.. 85 is hot and it isn't near there. I would say about 75 to 80. It is auto ac and i have done the on board diag that the unit is capable of and came back good except for the sun sensor which i understand is normal and has no hindrance on ac cooling function.

I hooked up the gauges today and the low side was 30psi while the high side was 90. brought it to low side 45psi and high side was about 130psi. No change. when i came out of the car after checking if the top off worked the gauges read again 30/100. then after about a min went back to what i charged it too.

The compressor kicks on every time. The low side line is not cold and the high side line is hot, so hot i can barely touch it. The temp of the lines stays that way throughout the plumbing. Everything visually appears to be proper. My scan tool shows ac commands are working, relay is on and such. I can see the air mix motor and vent door motor working correctly. There is a sound coming from behind the glove box. Sounds like it would if you were to fill an empty air tank or something. Makes me think i am crazy cause it also sounds like the line is being charged even though it isn't. Is this a normal thing? My last max did it but more of a water slush sound like air trapped in the heater core.

I am thinking either the receiver/drier is clogged up or the expansion valve is bad. I am just looking for a little insight. Maybe i am missing something? Sorry for the super long post just trying to be thorough. TIA FOR ANY REPLY'S!!
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Old 04-17-2016, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Keith_4g63
It is auto ac and i have done the on board diag that the unit is capable of and came back good except for the sun sensor which i understand is normal and has no hindrance on ac cooling function.
That is not correct. If the sunload sensor did hot have any effect on the cooling, why would Nissan waste time and money to design it into the circuit and build the car that way?

What you probably read was that if you run the diagnostic in less than bright light, the diagnostic will report a sunload sensor failure. You need to get the car outside in bright sunlight and re-run the diagnostic and find out for certain if the sensor is good or bad.

However, I agree with you that the sunload sensor is probably not causing the problem. Those pressure readings fluctuating need to be figured out. But that is an area I don't have enough knowledge to help you.
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Old 04-17-2016, 08:28 AM
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A/C diagnosis & repair is one thing best left to the experts. Ask around for shops reviews so you don't get hosed. Beats throwing parts at the issue hoping it goes away.

Last edited by mclasser; 04-17-2016 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 11:53 AM
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Thanks for the reply's! I will run the test again in direct sunlight. I have always diagnosed my own vehicles with success. Like most i don't have money to just buy parts or pay for shops. Being a mechanic your self helps lol.

May be a stupid question but is there a way to spot on tell if the expansion valve or receiver/drier is bad? Sorry if i am being ignorant, I would just hate to have to take it somewhere knowing i can do it and have the proper tooling just need a little help from someone more familiar with these cars system than i am. As always TIA!
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:11 PM
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Nobody?
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Old 06-28-2018, 05:46 PM
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Id like to know also if there is a way to tell if either is bad.
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