SquidBeak

I am preparing to install ES inserts in my control arms and engine mounts.

All the machine shops in my area want an absurd amount of money to press out the old bushings.

I have found a place with a hydraulic press that I can use, but I am having difficulty finding metal sleeves that I can use with the press. I will need inner and outer sleeves for the front and rear control arm bushings and the engine mounts. 6 in total.

Do any of you So Cal guys have any recommendations on where I could find these?

I have tried all the ball joint sleeves that you can rent from Autozone or O'Reilly.

I am about to start calling metal supply places in the area (Inland Empire) and try my luck.

Any input would be appreciated.

zenjia 03merlot

when i had taken my control arms off to get new bushing pressed in, the machine shop owner/dude was a grumbling about how much work it would take to get the front and rear bushings out, this was in the sf bay area about two years ago. so just had him press in two new ball joints, slashed one of the ball joint's boot, and forgot to mention it when picking up control arms.

hard as hell to find a good machine shop in the sf bay area, but guess it's hard to find one in LA?? i grew up there, used to be able to find a good machine shop in every city guess times have changed.

in the processes of researching diy methods of removing old bushing in ca, i think i remember someone mentioning blow torching the rubber to melt? another method: iirc, drilling out the rubber, but the front one's may be too thin of a rubber layer to drill, maybe melting would be easier. the back ones should have more that enough room to put a drill bit through it many times.

let us know how you do, been wanting to do this mod forever. so much easier to buy moog control arms and R/R, but you won't get that ES suspension feel, tighter, more controlled and longer lasting than oe rubber ones, at least that what i've come away with after reading other modders reviews.

taking the greener path in this instance, is taking the higher performance path, as well. but check to see if your control arms are damaged, bent or misaligned, etc..

btw, get better quality ball joints pressed in too while there off. i cleaned and applied anti seize to all 24mm/28mm?? head bolts that fastens the control arms to the frame easier to remove years later when bolts aren't rust-welded.

TallTom

I heard that the easiest way to remove is to melt out the rubber, cut the old sleeve with a saw or dremel and then pound it out.

Mattx

iTrader: (2)

I burned my motor mounts out. Once you get them going they will simmer and burn pretty good. Best/easiest way to install either is put them in the freezer a day or two before hand. That will make them much easier press in.

zenjia 03merlot

thanks TallTom and Mattx for posting good stuff for diy'ers, i believe, you two were the op's/threads i read years ago on the org when researching control arms mods.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

I've done these several times.

1st step is to remove the rubber. The rubber can be pressed out leaving the sleeve. It can also be burned out with a torch if a press is unavailable. Heat the metal and push it. Don't try to burn the actual rubber with the flame. You just have to get the bulk of it out. It doesn't have to be clean.

For the sleeve I cut it with a Sawzall or a hack saw. Just open the hacksaw and close it with the blade through the hole. Cut through the sleeve while cutting toward the mounting side in case you go a little too far. Once it's cut through just chisel one side from the edge and it will overlap at the cut. It'll pop right out after that.

Pressing the insert in is easy. They'll start to go a little sideways but will straighten out. It's not like pressing metal where it has to be perfectly straight. They are directional meaning they have a left and right side. If they're put in backwards they wout mount properly.

SquidBeak

Thanks for the replies.

I suppose I could take the hacksaw approach, but my concern is cutting up the housings, especially the aluminum housing for the rear bushing.

I supposed it wouldn't be too big of a deal if it was kept to a minimum.

Here's a question regarding the outer aluminum sleeve inside the rear bushing housing. When you completely cut through the sleeve with a hacksaw, does it pop or snap out because the pressure has been relieved or do you still have to pry it out?

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Don't worry about cutting too deep. Even a good sized groove won't weaken the housing by any measurable amount. It's mild steel that's not under a lot of pressure where you're cutting. If you're careful. and keep the saw level, you won't over cut by much. Just be sure to smooth it off so the new bushing doesn't get cut.

When you start getting close you can even try chiseling from the edge to see if the remaining material will tear.

Nothing will pop or release pressure. You probably won't even know when you've made it through.

It sounds intimidating but cutting these is very simple and safe. I would recommend a Sawzall but if you're not handy with one a hacksaw will be safer. If you're going to use a hacksaw be sure to have a few metal cutting blades with it. Fresh blades cut so much better. keep them lubed while you cut to extend their life.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I'm not sure how tight they fit normally, but I deep freeze bushings and they slide right in with grease.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Interesting. I'll have to try that next time.

SquidBeak

Do you have a meat packing plant in your basement?

Seriously, what do you use? A chest freezer or something?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, a good chest freezer should go well below zero. Hell, my fridge hits about zero and it's not cranked down at all.

SquidBeak

I put mine in the freezer yesterday. Hopefully it will help.

Have you ever tried pressing the ES inserts in without freezing? Do you know if it makes a big difference?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I haven't, but I do it b/c I read others had success with it. Takes me a few whacks of the mallot. I call that really easy.

SquidBeak

Since we're talking about ES inserts, I thought I'd post some pics of my progress.

I drilled out the rubber in the rear bushing. After a little torching and scraping, I wound up with this:




Is this the same sleeve everyone else has on their control arms? The ES installation instructions just show a cylinder with no cap on the end like this one.



So then I dremeled an X on the end:





Then I pried open the end:


I tried to pull the sleeve off with a gear puller, but it wouldn't budge.


Then I Dremeled a slot down the side:





And then Vice-Gripped the sleeve to open it up.




Then I pulled it off:



The Dremel scratched the post a bit. It isn't deep at all. I don't think it will matter. I will smooth the edges.



Here is a question: How clean should I get the post? The paint is somewhat rough. Should I lightly sand it with fine grit? Steel wool? Scotch pad?

zenjia 03merlot

yeah, it was Derrick2k2SE and Child uv KoRn, i'm positive it was those two that i read years ago, just listen to those two and everything will be fine. sick pictures op and nice progress with that inner metal sleeve. Derrick2k2SE was right about the control arms being quite thick, so i wouldn't worry about your nicks. i had to dremel both ball joints nuts that got frozen on the threads. was very careful, but limited angles, space and closeness of control arm to ball joint to steering knuckle made pretty deep gashes on both sides of the control arms, but did not affect functionality/performance.

btw, if anyone's first time using the dremel, take your time, there's so much torque packed into that handheld rotary/drill/cutting tool.