ehughes

OK...I did the search and read and read. Maybe I missed the answer. Someone please tell me the best way to Launch an Auto 2k2. I'm hopefully making it to the track Friday and need some tips.

I went out today in BFE and ran a couple of WOT's from dead stop to see. Starting in 3rd gives me wheelspin 4ever, when it shifts to 2nd, BOG...The RPMs drop too far and take too long to rise up again. I did not try to manual shift yet.

Anyone?

guitaraus

I've had the best results by far with holding the brake pedal i.e. power braking while gassing it to around 2000-25000 rpm's, then letting it go.

I'm sure other people will tell you otherwise, and I'm not claiming to be completely right, but that is by far what works the best for me.

Just trying to help.

mattattax

i remember someone saying that holding the brake while pressing the gas to 1100-1200 RPMs (this is for 2k2s)and then (at green)quickly putting the pedal to the floor, but not SO quickly that it causes wheelspin (i think finding out how fast to put the gas down w/o causing wheelspin will be a key factor in getting a great launch)

UMD_MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

place foot on gas, or feather gas to 1k rpm or so while holding brake in hard. Mash gas pedal and let go of brake a split second later. You should launch at the TC stall speed this way

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

Curious. Wouldn't it hurt the brakes or the transmission or the engine if you fail to let go of the brake at the right time? (e.g. WOT with brakes still locked)

UMD_MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

yes, it would put extra stress on both brakes and tranny if you holdit in too long. It would definitely not be good for the tranny...

Badaxxima

It is hard on the driveline and brakes to brake-torque, but it is the best way to get power out of a slushbox. Oh, TC stall speed is when the TC locks up, you'll reach that using Mattattax's method of letting off the brakes then modulating to WOT. TC flash speed is when the TC engages with the brakes mashed, that's what you'll reach using Guitaurus' method. Good luck.

ehughes

What about tire pressure...40 lbs rear/27 front???

UMD_MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

for drag racing, lower up front... like maybe 20 psi and higher in the back

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

Hope the stip has an air compressor on-hand. I'd hate to drive back home with that kinda pressure.

UMD_MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

carry a bicycle pump in the trunk

Greg's2kGLE

Don't forget to turn off your traction control (if you have it). If you leave it on, you will get robbed of power. Try experimenting with the certain RPMs for torque braking. It's different for every car and at different tracks, some are stickier than others. With the 2k2's you might want to brake torque at a little lower RPM since you have a lot of torque down low. Anything over 2 grand, and you'll be spinning your tires a lot. Practice makes perfect!

ehughes

Too heavy!

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

How about i just not brake torque? Punching it from a dead stop w/o this technique already spins the wheels like crazy

Greg's2kGLE

You'll probably spin more if you just punch it. Having it tached up a little will make it easier to launch. Try it on the street, floor it without brake torquing and see how much wheel spin you get. Or you can just just put you left foot on the brake and tach the gas up to about 1100 rpms with your right foot. Experiment

Badaxxima

Try punching it from a roll, this usually takes away wheelspin. At least it does on my car.

Greg's2kGLE

You can't get a rolling start when at the strip....

Badaxxima

Good point, although he could also get stickier tires.

ehughes

Linky no worky

Thanks for the tips...I will really need them for my first time at the track on Friday (no rain please). What are your thoughts on Don's VB Mod?

Burton069

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I use this method. I get a lot of wheel spin, but my 0-60 time )didn't go to track yet) was pretty good for my overweight I30, 7.55 sec

2K2THEMAX

I've personally been to the track a bunch with my 2K2. I've made at least 60 runs and the BEST technique is to brake torque to 1100RPM and gradually floor the accelerator and shift manually. However, the last time I was at the track, it was very sticky and I was able to floor the accelerator from the beginning - but I was only able to get a 14.50 due to it being 60 degrees instead of the 40 when I ran the 14.44

Daniel

Greg's2kGLE

Don't the 2k2 automatics go right up to redline anyways? So is there even a need to manually shift?

Cutler

iTrader: (3)

That gets the tires nice and warm, then you come up to the line, pull up the e-brake at the starting line and start with a burnout(auto in first) while the tree is getting near green, then at the green let off the ebrake and manually shift at 6K and hold on

This will get you great times but your car will be at the Nissan dealer the next morning and you will be trying to explain the caked rubber on the inside of your fenders to the the service manager

Best of luck in your launches, I now have to go and figure out what is wrong with my tranny

JCR

ehughes

Your right. I tried a few starts, not at the track, manually shifting and it seemed pretty quick off the line. It is deceiving because you don't have the immediate wheel spin/engine WOT.

irvine78

iTrader: (2)

ok, maybe it's just me..but..uh...if u pressed both brake and gas pedal at the same time...wouldn't ur car still move forward? just enough to redlight it? i tried doing this in my dad's Q45...but the car still moved forward ever so slowly...

maybe i'm just not a good auto driver...

ehughes

]

ok?

Synki

I take it many of you guys dont drag race a lot? I wouldnt say im a pro but i can say i have years of experience dragging though.

For an auto, power brake it (unless you are great at flash stalling your TC) up to about 1500rpms as a starting point (unless you have a high stall TC). Experiment w/ the rpms. All tracks are different as are tires. There is no "set" rpm launch. I personally launch @ 1500rpms and pull consistent 2.2 60fts (better then some of the 5spd guys) on 16's.

As far as tire pressure, it all depends on what size tires. Usually 20psi is a starting point. Too low of a pressure will get you no where.

I also dont get where people say manually shifting an auto produces better times. The purpose and design is for it shift itself. When shifting manually, it causes more lag between shifts thus causing time loss. I have Don's VB and have tried both and noticed it shifts way faster when your in "D". Let the damn transmission do its job.. shift itself!

Get a VB mod, it will yield a bit faster times (dont expect anything that great... around a .1 faster). It will also prolong transmission life as long as you add a transmission cooler. You need one b/c the VB mod makes the tranny run hotter.

When you pull up, avoid the water pit. There is no reason why you need to go through it and do a rediculous burnout (unless you want a picture of something or even using DR's or slicks). Do a slight wheel spin to get all the crap off your tires and to warm them up enough. If you sit tehre spinning, you just put more load on the axles & tranny. I have snapped axles like nothing b/c of stupid movies like this.

Dragging on Street vs Strip is a big difference. Practice is key though.

The weight of rims/tire combo can make a world of a difference. Every 1lb of your rims is equal to 8lbs dead weight. Each gallon of gas is about 7lbs.

When i brake torque i dont move at all. Even if it moves slightly, no biggy as long as you dont deep stage. Deep staging gives better R/T's only.

Synki

When i dragged w/ my car, my cousins Lightning, & Supra, i noticed it took longer manually shifting. Hogan, you may not agree w/ i mentioend but this is what i noticed based on my experience. Everyone will have different opinions.

I think if you want to manually shift, its time for a 5spd.

I hope people do realize that the fastest cars down the 1/4 mile are autos.